Chest Freezer Is Always Running

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seals onto of the fridge are tight? its not leaking air anywhere?
 
nop, the walls are not getting cold. even if it had no lid the walls should be cooler then 16-18deg wouldnt they after running for 3 hours?? only thing I can think of there was a leak in the gas line or they forgot to put the gas in there. not to sure, I think I will just ring them and get some one out if its fucked they can replace it.
 
whens its running put your hand on the compressor is it warm or boiling hot?
 
just warm the outside of the freezer isnt warm like my old one used to get
 
just warm the outside of the freezer isnt warm like my old one used to get


Low current reading (0.15A) with a coolish motor and warm inside the freezer points to no refridgerant. I think remove your temp control, collar and kegging stuff then give the store a call and claim warranty. Just be sure to keep your kegs and brew gear out of sight if they come out for a looksee.
 
yeah everything is removed, only problem I can see is my old chest freezer sitting next to it with the collar attached lol will try stick it in the corner and put a drop sheet over it or something. I have had it plugged in again once installed back to factory and still no go! oh well least I could fit one keg into another fridge so will be cool enough to have a beer tomorrow.
 
yeah definitely a refrigerant problem, can't think of the chances of having 2 fridges have the same problem? your not keep the chesty near anything corrosive?
 
what does the little chrome badge on front of the freezer say
 
If it is just the one powerpoint running at 207V then it may be a high resistance joint in the point itself, simple replacement of the point should do (by a licensed electrician) as for the power accuracy it is drawing the full 30W. if you multiply the 0.14A by 207V (P=VI) it comes to 29W.
 
yeah definitely a refrigerant problem, can't think of the chances of having 2 fridges have the same problem? your not keep the chesty near anything corrosive?
no nothing corrosive, I only picked the new one up yesterday so it would have to be pretty corrosive. The closest thing Id have is metho or wax and glue remover but thats about 3 m away in a cupboard and in sealed containers.

what does the little chrome badge on front of the freezer say
westinghouse

If it is just the one powerpoint running at 207V then it may be a high resistance joint in the point itself, simple replacement of the point should do (by a licensed electrician) as for the power accuracy it is drawing the full 30W. if you multiply the 0.14A by 207V (P=VI) it comes to 29W.

it was 30W and .14A on the 246-247V point
 
no nothing corrosive, I only picked the new one up yesterday so it would have to be pretty corrosive. The closest thing Id have is metho or wax and glue remover but thats about 3 m away in a cupboard and in sealed containers.


westinghouse



it was 30W and .14A on the 246-247V point

Hmm, well maybe it is not so accurate
 
well it was going between 29-33W and .14-.15A and the volts got about 2-3v ether way but you cant view them at the same time so its only rough. Will ring them first thing and hope (doubt it will happen) they can get here tomorrow before I go away again.
 
well it was going between 29-33W and .14-.15A and the volts got about 2-3v ether way but you cant view them at the same time so its only rough. Will ring them first thing and hope (doubt it will happen) they can get here tomorrow before I go away again.

I am pretty sure most retailers I.e. Harvey Norman etc, have a set time for replacement after warranty before the repair kicks in. Personally I would take it back to retailer and demand a replacement. If the leak is in the insulation it can not be fixed anyway.
 
nop harvey norman said I have to ring up westinghouse and get them to look at it first. I think thats fucked but if its what I have to do. just means prob wont get it replaced for another month.
 

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