Cc With Ale Yeast

[Finite]

Im about to rack a coopers lager.

After secondary fermentation is compleate (5 days or so) I was planning to transfer it into the fridge @ 2c for 10 days to CC. After this is it recomended that I allow it to warm to room temp before bulk priming?

Im using the coopers ale yeast, so will ccing the beer kill the yeast or just force them to go dormant untill I add the fermentables in when bulk priming?

 

[DJR]

Im about to rack a coopers lager.

After secondary fermentation is compleate (5 days or so) I was planning to transfer it into the fridge @ 2c for 10 days to CC. After this is it recomended that I allow it to warm to room temp before bulk priming?

Im using the coopers ale yeast, so will ccing the beer kill the yeast or just force them to go dormant untill I add the fermentables in when bulk priming?

[post="129307"][/post]​

Last time i did this i racked, let it sit, CCed it for 2 days, racked it again, warmed it up, and then mixed in some dextrose solution before bottling. It's a lot of racking and a lot of chances for oxidation, but the beer is clear as crystal. This was with US56 though, i'm not sure how the coopers ale yeast would go. You'd still have enough in solution to carb eventually though.

 

[Samwise Gamgee]

I've bulk primed before when the temp of the brew was low and had no carbonation probs. I'm not 100% sure what temp it was at though.


Edit: When the temp is raised, does yeast automatically go back into suspension? Or does it need to be roused with a bit of a shake?

 

[Finite]

Edit: When the temp is raised, does yeast automatically go back into suspension? Or does it need to be roused with a bit of a shake?

[post="129368"][/post]​

No idea thats what i need to know

 

[Hogan]

Finite

Your ale yeast will go to sleep at the low temp for CCing but will kick off again when the wort is brought back to original ferm temp for bulk priming and bottling. It will awake by itself, no need to kick it. You will find that the CCing will clear the beer and significantly reduce that which tends to accumulate later at the bottom of the bottle.

You could bulk prime at a lower temp but you would have to reduce the dex level due to less C02 release. I would stick to bringing it back to ferm temp.

 

[Finite]

Finite

Your ale yeast will go to sleep at the low temp for CCing but will kick off again when the wort is brought back to original ferm temp for bulk priming and bottling. It will awake by itself, no need to kick it. You will find that the CCing will clear the beer and significantly reduce that which tends to accumulate later at the bottom of the bottle.

You could bulk prime at a lower temp but you would have to reduce the dex level due to less C02 release. I would stick to bringing it back to ferm temp.

[post="129416"][/post]​

Thanks Hogan!

Would you just bring it out of the fridge and let it sit overnight to come back to temp then prime and bottle?

Also how long would you sudgest CCing this one?

 

[MHD]

For both largers and ales I have adopted the following practice after seeing how my local micro does it to great success:

Cold C for a few days at ~2 degrees
day before drop it to -0.5-0.5
rack into bottling bucket on dextrose/malt + boiling water mix
let stand until at lowest end of fermentation range for yeast (yes a little fermentation and reduction in CO2 will occur)
bottle...

The reason why I do this is that chill haze protiens will precipitate out and be left in secondary...

If you warm the secondary back up before transfer some of the haze protiens will go back in solution...

 

[Trent]

MHD
I have also heard this, that after CC it is best to rack it off the cake still as cold as possible, otherwise all the stuff that you get to precipitate out at the cold temp will just re-absorb into the beer. Not that I ever CC, but when I start, it is good to know there are others out there succesfully practising what I was planning on doing. Sounds like a pretty good way to do it, I reckon
All the best
Trent

 

[Darren]

Beware bottling cold beer. Sometimes there can be quite a lot of dissolved CO2 in solution which can add to the carbonation levels of the bottle and cause bottle bombs.

cheers

Darren

 

[Hogan]

[post="129416"][/post]​

[/quote]

Thanks Hogan!

Would you just bring it out of the fridge and let it sit overnight to come back to temp then prime and bottle?

Also how long would you sudgest CCing this one?

[post="129607"][/post]​

[/quote]


Finite.

I would give it at least a week in CC.

I have heard the same thing as Trent and MHD regarding racking to stop the reabsorption but I have not tried it.

 

[Finite]

Thanks for the tips guys, sounds like a plan I will give it a go and let you know how it turns out.

MHD just the clarify, do you mean rack it cold and then just let it sit open for an hour or so until it warms to the min ferment temp...

for example in my case (coopers ale yeast)

I would rack out of my CC vessle into a bottling bucket with sugar solution and let it sit untill about 15 - 17c?

also whats the reasoning for droping it to -0.5 - 0.5 a day b4?

 

[Finite]

bump

 

[Voosher]

MHD just the clarify, do you mean rack it cold and then just let it sit open for an hour or so until it warms to the min ferment temp...

for example in my case (coopers ale yeast)

I would rack out of my CC vessle into a bottling bucket with sugar solution and let it sit untill about 15 - 17c?

[post="129672"][/post]​

23l warming from around 2C takes more than an hour or so to come up to bottling temps.
If you can measure the temp of your brew out of CC reasonable accurately then MHD's method adds an interesting twist.
Personally I give my brews (predominantly ales) 24-48hrs at 18C or warmer before bottling.
I actually rack them onto the priming solution after warming, but with your Coopers ale yeast 17C is about the right temp if you want to go MHD's method.
Cheers.

 

[Finite]

Well I ended up transfering the beer into a bottling bucket straight out of CC. This took it off the secondary trub so that the chill haze proteins couldnt precipitate back in like MHD sudgested.

I used a priming calc to work out how much to add depending on the temp. In hindsight this is not the best plan because it can warm up by the time I get to bottling the last few. Im doing a lager so i shouldnt get any beer bombs but just incase because I was trying a new method I backed it off just a tad.

Next time I think I will transfer out of my secondary or CC cube into a bottling bucket where I will allow it to warm to room temp for say 2 hours before I bottle. Is there anything stopping me from waiting until its room temp to add the priming solution as long as i pour it in gentle then just give it a very slow mix? I mix my bottling bucket anyway just a bit, even though it swirls it up. To be sure the sugar is spread through evenly.

Like this: