Can the grind effect efficiency?

[SimoB]

Well that's something to go by... might try that next time,

 

[growler]

I find it also helps to send the grain twice though the mill at 1 mm. With 11.5 kg for my normal brew day it doesn't quite fit into a 20 lt bucket..... so mill twice into 2 buckets and all is good.

I still calc only 70% efficiency.

I might try QLD Kev's .9 mm suggestion

G.

 

[lael]

Can you get feeler gauges that go larger than 1mm? or if not - how do you set to something like 1.2mm? - which is what most brau people seem to recommend.

I swapped out my aldi drill for an ozito and it has way more torque, but found it was ripping husk more at slower speeds. I'd be interested in seeing pics of people's crushes to see what it is 'supposed' to look like ideally.

 

[Fat Bastard]

Just stack the 0.2 on top of the 1mm feeler.
Just to play devils advocate here, I set my mash master mill to the factory recommended 1.6mm and had no noticeable effect on the efficiency compared to my LHBS supplied crushed grain which was crushed at 0.9

 

[Camo6]

Can you get feeler gauges that go larger than 1mm? or if not - how do you set to something like 1.2mm? - which is what most brau people seem to recommend.

I swapped out my aldi drill for an ozito and it has way more torque, but found it was ripping husk more at slower speeds. I'd be interested in seeing pics of people's crushes to see what it is 'supposed' to look like ideally.

You could use the 1mm feeler with the .2mm. to give 1.2mm etc etc.

Edit: just as FB pointed out ^ ;-)

 

[timmi9191]

When we say quick, slow etc.. What sort of rpm are we talking about?

 

[lael]

Just stack the 0.2 on top of the 1mm feeler.
Just to play devils advocate here, I set my mash master mill to the factory recommended 1.6mm and had no noticeable effect on the efficiency compared to my LHBS supplied crushed grain which was crushed at 0.9

which is the setting for 1.6? - the mashmaster mini?

 

[CosmicBertie]

When we say quick, slow etc.. What sort of rpm are we talking about?

Ive heard its around 100-150rpm.

I wouldnt know, I have no method of checking (apart from putting a blob of white paint on the chuck and counting, but FT).

Ive BIAB with my grain ground to flour in a coffee grinder, but I currently have my mill set to keep the husks mostly intact. Helps my bag to drain a bit freer.

 

[Fat Bastard]

which is the setting for 1.6? - the mashmaster mini?

Yeah, a Mashmaster Minimill. At that setting, there seems to be quite a few whole grains in the grist, but they fall apart as soon as you touch them, so it's obviously leaving the husks intact.

 

[QldKev]

When we say quick, slow etc.. What sort of rpm are we talking about?

It will depend on the mill, but from

http://www.monsterbrewinghardware.com/faq.html#q3


The best speed to run all of the drill driven mills at is around 150-250 rpms. Does it have to be exactly 200 rpms? NO WAY. A range of 100-300 is fine, and if you are willing to have a little more flour, then you can run it a little faster. I generally tell folks to run it as slowly as your drill will run it without stalling plus a little more. It usually takes a little more torque to get the mill going than to keep it going, so you will have to give it some more power to start the mill, and then slow it down once you are milling. You should experiment with faster/slower speeds and see what it does to your grain.

If using a fixed motor then it's easy to work out the motor speed and gear ratio to get the final rpm. If you've using a drill, well then it's somewhere between 0 and too many rpm.

 

[pk.sax]

What Kevin said.

+ different grain, even differet batches can vary a little in how fat the grain is. Its not a LOT but makes a tiny bit of difference in the amount of husk shredding you get. BIABers can ignore. I run my ozito at just enough to keep it turning. Thats fast enough for me.

Conditioning the grain helps with other aspects for brewer using a fixed mash drain or recirc etc. BIAB... meh.

Post a pic of your crush and maybe get some better help.

efficiency could also be suffering from non-uniform temps in mash tun, not stirring, not recircing, too much deadspace, not enough sparge, too much initial strike water....

 

[Camo6]

It will depend on the mill, but from

http://www.monsterbrewinghardware.com/faq.html#q3


The best speed to run all of the drill driven mills at is around 150-250 rpms. Does it have to be exactly 200 rpms? NO WAY. A range of 100-300 is fine, and if you are willing to have a little more flour, then you can run it a little faster. I generally tell folks to run it as slowly as your drill will run it without stalling plus a little more. It usually takes a little more torque to get the mill going than to keep it going, so you will have to give it some more power to start the mill, and then slow it down once you are milling. You should experiment with faster/slower speeds and see what it does to your grain.

If using a fixed motor then it's easy to work out the motor speed and gear ratio to get the final rpm. If you've using a drill, well then it's somewhere between 0 and too many rpm.

Out of interest, is there any reason why a slower speed than 100rpm would be detrimental? I use a wiper motor for my mini mill and it plods along at about 60rpm. Crush seems good and getting just over 80% efficiency for 1050 OG grain bills. Only drawback is it takes a bit longer AFAIK.

 

[Batz]

Can the grind effect efficiency = YES

 

[Screwtop]

Throwing a cat among the pidgeons here: Can the grind effect efficiency = YES Just as: Can the mash temp effect fermentability = YES

HOWEVER: These efficiency and fermentability variations are of utmost importance to large breweries, brewing millions of litres of beer due to economy of scale.

For the home brewer, honestly resulting variances are 5/8ths of f#ck all. Forget knocking all of the edges of that square it is going to end up round eventually just like..................................... A WHEEL?

Screwy