Bulk Priming

[hazard]

Hi, I started brewing about 12 months ago (k&k) and have just started with partial mashes. Would like to go AG but stove isn't big enough.

I've also started bulk priming but am getting a problem with uneven carbonation - some bottles near flat, others gush. Is there a special technique to use? How long should I boil dextrose/ water? After I rack beer from from first fermentor and mix with priming sugar, how long should I wait before I bottle? I have been bottling straight away, but should I wait for a while to let primer diffuse into the beer?

Thanks for any advice.

hazard

 

[scott_penno]

Hi there,

Personally, I sanitise a vessel (cube), mix the sugar and boling water until dissolved and pour into the cube. I then empty the contents of my fermenter via some food-grade hose into the cube and bottle which seems to ensure it all mixes pretty consistently. Never had a problem.

sap.

 

[boingk]

Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaannnd....we're off!

What method do you use? Sugar solution into fermentor first or beer first then solution? Do you stir? Lets get exact.

*puts on kevlar underwear*

Personally, I think single-prime is the way to go...easy and quick and I've never had a problem with inconsistency or what-have-you.

*puts on woolen undergarments*

In fact, bulk priming can lead to any sort of infection easily, exposing the brew while it is at its most vulnerable; without a nice, fat CO2 layer thats being replenished by fermentation.

*put on fire-retardant race suit*

I think it'd be easier to just single prime and be done with it.

*dons a NASA approved helmet, runs like hell*

 

[goatherder]

Try this. All the benefits and none of the problems of bulk priming.

http://goatherder.googlepages.com/bulkpriming

 

[staggalee]

Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaannnd....we're off!

What method do you use? Sugar solution into fermentor first or beer first then solution? Do you stir? Lets get exact.

*puts on kevlar underwear*

Personally, I think single-prime is the way to go...easy and quick and I've never had a problem with inconsistency or what-have-you.

*puts on woolen undergarments*

In fact, bulk priming can lead to any sort of infection easily, exposing the brew while it is at its most vulnerable; without a nice, fat CO2 layer thats being replenished by fermentation.

*put on fire-retardant race suit*

I think it'd be easier to just single prime and be done with it.

*dons a NASA approved helmet, runs like hell*

you are so right..............unless you have a big assortment of different size bottles, bulk priming is the greatest waste of time and effort ever to be foisted unto unknowing newbies. I`ve been saying this for years and NOTHING will ever change my mind.
I single prime 28 tallies in less than 2 minutes and have perfect carb. every time. Why you`d want to gin around with bulk priming , for the life of me I can`t understand.

stagga.

 

[rich_lamb]

I add my boiled sugar syrup to the priming bucket - don't think it matters how long you boil it; few minutes or so.

Then I rack the beer into the bucket with my autosiphon; doesn't matter what type of siphon you use. The racking generally stirs things up enough but to be extra sure I gently stir a bit with the siphon body (just out of the same beer).

Then bottle straight away. No delays necessary, and it works perfectly for every bottle.

Note that I also judiciously siphon up a few puffs of yeast which get mixed in as well, to assist in priming. I think you might get problems if you dump your syrup into the bucket last; much better first.

 

[wambesi]

Try this. All the benefits and none of the problems of bulk priming.

http://goatherder.googlepages.com/bulkpriming

Interesting read GH.

My bulk prime method is simply do up solution by mixing the sugar with about 250-300mL or so of water straight from the kettle - basically enough to just dissolve it completely in and then pour this into a sanitised fermenter.

Then connect up the tube to the vessel containing the beer and allow the tubing to drop down into the bulk priming fermenter coiling it up in the bottom, then once the tap is opened it will essentially create a whirlpool effect (sorta) and allow it to mix in well. Once mixed in then straight into the bottles they go.
Also ensuring the beer does not splash around etc.

Using this method I have had consistent results since taking up brewing again in Feb 2007.

 

[Tony]

I have posted thes chart many times and many use it.

When i started bottling i had the same problem as you.

I made a graph with listing the amount of prining sugar used (dextrose only), the FG of the beer and the volume of beer primed.

I drew a line through the middle of the over and under primed beers and lined it up with the perfect beers.

I have not have a poorly primed bottle of beer since!

Secrest are:

use dextrose.
makes sure your beer is COMPLETLY finished!........ be patient with it.
bottle at room temperature.

I rack the beer to let it sottle out and finnish of completly for a few days. When this is done, i take a gravity reading and rack it. Take a volume reading once racked and calculate the amount of Dextrose needed to bulk prime.

In the chart there is an amount stated for 22L which i used to use for a racked kit beer, after you loose a bit to racking and yeast ect. There is also a grams per liter column. If you have 26 liters, multiply 26 by the amount listed coresponding with the FG of the beer and you have your grams of Dextrose.

I disolve the dex in 2 parts of boiling water and gently stur it in.

for a wheat beer, multiply the final sugar amount by 1.1 (10% more) or a low carb english beer multiply it by 0.9 (10% less) for great results.

just make sure is COMPLETLY finnished for consistancy

cheers

View attachment PRIMING_CHART_1.xls

 

[antains]

Interesting read GH.

My bulk prime method is simply do up solution by mixing the sugar with about 250-300mL or so of water straight from the kettle - basically enough to just dissolve it completely in and then pour this into a sanitised fermenter.

Then connect up the tube to the vessel containing the beer and allow the tubing to drop down into the bulk priming fermenter coiling it up in the bottom, then once the tap is opened it will essentially create a whirlpool effect (sorta) and allow it to mix in well. Once mixed in then straight into the bottles they go.
Also ensuring the beer does not splash around etc.

Using this method I have had consistent results since taking up brewing again in Feb 2007.

This is how I do it. I understand the concern about infection. One solution, possibly is to drill a hole into the lid of the priming fermenter that would fit the hose and a grommet. With that all sanitised, all you would need to do is attach the protruding hose to the first fermenter after the sugar mix has been added and let it all pour in.

I have posted thes chart many times and many use it.

When i started bottling i had the same problem as you.

I made a graph with listing the amount of prining sugar used (dextrose only), the FG of the beer and the volume of beer primed.

I drew a line through the middle of the over and under primed beers and lined it up with the perfect beers.
...

Other calculators and tables I've seen take into consideration the brewing temperature, as well. Cooler brewed beers require less sugar for the secondary, apparently. Is that still relevant for these charts? Or is FG all you need?

 

[Tony]

Ive never understood the "temperature brewed at" thing

What does that matter? The temperature bottled at is more critical

The reason i say dont bottle cold, is that cold beer holds dilsoved Co2 from fermentation, and there for the gassing will be higher because its already be partly gassed so the speak.

My chart has proved reliable with lagers brewed at 8 deg to ales at 22. as long as you know the filal volume and final gravity your fine.

try it........ trust me!

 

[buttersd70]

Ive never understood the "temperature brewed at" thing

It's the max temperature that the beer came up to at any stage of the process, including the temperature the beer is at at bottling time, its to do with the amount of co2 that the beer will hold at a given temperature, same as what you said about not bottling cold beer...so by bringing to room temperature, regardless if it's an ale or a lager, you're effectively removing this variable, anyway...which is why your chart will work equally for either.

Priming calculators are all fine and well if you're super picky about the level of carbonation (or are giving the beer to someone that is super picky about the level of carbonation). Simple fact of the matter is, for day to day brewing, you go with what will work to give you the carb that is right for you. Tonys chart is certainly a great starting point...it will give reliable, solid, consistant carbonation, which can then be easily tweaked up or down, to match your own preferences. Personally, I'm part of the picky set, and use calculator amounts...but that's down to personal choice, and because I know that it will work to what I expect from the beer coming from my system. For anyone that is having trouble with consistancy of carbonation, or is unsure on the more techie calculations, Tonys chart is definately the way to go.
2c

 

[antains]

...

My chart has proved reliable with lagers brewed at 8 deg to ales at 22. as long as you know the filal volume and final gravity your fine.

try it........ trust me!

... Simple fact of the matter is, for day to day brewing, you go with what will work to give you the carb that is right for you. Tonys chart is certainly a great starting point...it will give reliable, solid, consistant carbonation, which can then be easily tweaked up or down, to match your own preferences. Personally, I'm part of the picky set, and use calculator amounts...

Sweet. I want to concquer the trickiness and pickiness. But I will be using Tony's charts for those beers that serve one destiny: to be drunk. By which I simply mean thank you both.

Cheers.
Ant.


Edit: Trying to sound less condescending. It's late.

 

[stm]

Ive never understood the "temperature brewed at" thing

What does that matter? The temperature bottled at is more critical

The reason i say dont bottle cold, is that cold beer holds dilsoved Co2 from fermentation, and there for the gassing will be higher because its already be partly gassed so the speak.

My chart has proved reliable with lagers brewed at 8 deg to ales at 22. as long as you know the filal volume and final gravity your fine.

try it........ trust me!

Hi Tony

So, just to clarify, for your lagers fermented at 8 deg, do you bring them up to 18-22 deg first, then bottle and leave them at 18-22 for the secondary/tertiary fermentation, and by so doing, your table will always work?

Thanks.

 

[ahyeah]

I bulk prime with no problems. I boil up light dried malt with about 1/2 a litre of water and pour this into the bottom of another fermenter. Hook the hose up to the tap and fill the second one up from the bottom. No worries! Bottle without delay.

 

[cubbie]

Hi Tony

So, just to clarify, for your lagers fermented at 8 deg, do you bring them up to 18-22 deg first, then bottle and leave them at 18-22 for the secondary/tertiary fermentation, and by so doing, your table will always work?

Thanks.

Yes that would be the case. I cold condition/larger all my beers and always bring them up to 20c before bottling.

I bulk prime with no problems. I boil up light dried malt with about 1/2 a litre of water and pour this into the bottom of another fermenter. Hook the hose up to the tap and fill the second one up from the bottom. No worries! Bottle without delay.

What amounts of LDME are you using? I use LDME and I find when you look at the carbonation calculators and choose dried malt it give very large volumes.