Building a Keg Collar - various questions on build etc.

[malt junkie]

i used sikaflex on mine.

You can now put some rigging hooks on it, and hoist (full) with a crane

there's no kill like over kill

 

[barls]

You can now put some rigging hooks on it, and hoist (full) with a crane

there's no kill like over kill

its not coming apart unless i want to.

 

[laxation]

That's what I thought. Pack it somehow. Depends if you can see it and cant accept it. Make the front flush. Will anyone else notice?
Any more pics? Its hard to imaging this wobble bit but I'm trying ha. Nice job..

With Photobucket just copy the bottom link to share the photo then its displayed on this page.. B)

Bit of an exaggeration, but it is like this... I think the gap was 5mm on the bottom left side at the front.

Moreso a problem on the bottom than the top I think, but I figured the top has to be pretty much perfect so the lid fits well?

Anyway I'll get at it with a plane on the weekend - heading up to see the father in law so he can "help" (i.e. do it for me - properly)

Thanks for tips on the seal to use too... I'll check those out. The wood is 30mm thick though so not sure the 15mm one from Bunnings would do the job. Will just be careful to plug any gaps with silicone. If I am struggling to level it, I can get a black sealant to make the front look a little better. But I think will be OK to plane it down.

(Unrelated note... my electric planer - hand-me-down from grandpa gives me a small static like shock when I use it, is that a problem?)

 

[Meddo]

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Thanks for tips on the seal to use too... I'll check those out. The wood is 30mm thick though so not sure the 15mm one from Bunnings would do the job. Will just be careful to plug any gaps with silicone. If I am struggling to level it, I can get a black sealant to make the front look a little better. But I think will be OK to plane it down.

Spoiler

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Spoiler

Reckon you'll be fine with the 15mm strip if it suits your concept (and you get it level enough), my collar is 30mm pine on the sides and back and 45mm on the front - seals fine with a single line of that tape and 45 degree angles/joins at the each corner. There's bugger all pressure differential so you don't need anything super-robust to keep the cold air in and warm stuff out.

Having said that, the construction on mine is a bit different as I have facing timber that extends down past the seal and keeps the whole thing located properly - yours might move around a bit more if it's just perched on top. If you don't want to permanently seal it down with silicon or similar and you're not hinging the collar, you could keep it located by just putting some corner pieces on the inside that extend a little way down into the freezer to stop it moving around.

 

[laxation]

A planer would be fine. I'd use a spirit level to see where the raised section is and colour it in with a pencil or marker then just plane that section.

Perfect, thanks!
Exactly what I needed to figure out how to fix it.

 

[earle]

Reckon you'll be fine with the 15mm strip if it suits your concept (and you get it level enough), my collar is 30mm pine on the sides and back and 45mm on the front - seals fine with a single line of that tape and 45 degree angles/joins at the each corner. There's bugger all pressure differential so you don't need anything super-robust to keep the cold air in and warm stuff out.

Having said that, the construction on mine is a bit different as I have facing timber that extends down past the seal and keeps the whole thing located properly - yours might move around a bit more if it's just perched on top. If you don't want to permanently seal it down with silicon or similar and you're not hinging the collar, you could keep it located by just putting some corner pieces on the inside that extend a little way down into the freezer to stop it moving around.

Collar 01.jpg
Collar 02.jpg

I made my collar similar to this with another piece on the inside which sits on the inner recess of the freezer lip. Basically like an upside down U. Pushed the collar on tight and it holds to the top of the freezer really well. With a coffin top i figured there was going to be a lot of weight pulling on the collar when the lid was opened so i figured this design would spread the torsion.

 

[earle]

Photo for detail. I basically made it hollow and then filled it with foam insulation board

 

[laxation]

So after I took the box apart, planed each side to be perfectly the same, I put it back together to realise the wood was warped -.-

Link to pictures: https://www.yogile.com/1ptdij09/21m/share/?vsc=883b8c0f

What is the best way to fix this? I can think of two different ways, but not sure if I'm missing something.

1. 
   Sand the side piece a bit like this: /
   This is so it fits snugly into the warped front piece. This will make it a bit short at the back, but that side is against the wall so it doesn't matter too much.
   I would also need to use a bit of gap filler here and there, which I don't mind too much.
   
2. 
   Join it all together, even though it is out of whack, and then take a belt sander to it to level it all out.
   
3. 
   
   

Does anyone have any idea the best way to fix this?

 

[Meddo]

Leave it as-is and hide the corners with some decorative stainless steel angle?

Structural,I meant to say... structural stainless steel angle

 

[Mat B]

Option 1 is best. I'd plane rather than sand. Maybe hand plane that for precision. If u need to gap fill, use a wood putty or filler. You can get matching stuff or close to from Bunnings. Once sanded and coated, should come out OK.

 

[laxation]

It's done!

Thanks all for your help

The first brew is in there getting ready, hopefully pouring the first beer on Friday night

 

[Mat B]

Love it!