Brewcraft's Lcpa Clone

Australia & New Zealand Homebrewing Forum

Help Support Australia & New Zealand Homebrewing Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

husky

hop addict
Joined
13/2/09
Messages
868
Reaction score
508
Location
VIC
Brewcraft were selling these for $33 so I decided to give one a try.
Contents:
Black rock pilsner blonde 1.7kg
Brewcraft #15 brew booster 1kg
Dry wheat malt 150g
15g cascade and 15g willamette - boiled in 2L water for 15 mins(for extra flavour I gather)
US-05
made up to 18L

Now the instructions said to strain the hops when adding the water to the fermenter however I put the lot in hoping maybe for a little more flavour/aroma from the boiled hops although I realise most of the aroma will have boiled away. Should I have strained it or is it ok to have added it? Im sure it will settle out for bottling.

Second qn is I have read it can be beneficial to cool the fermenter to 4 degrees or so after frementation proir to bottling, what is the advantage of this?
OG was 44 and FG today is 10 so I have just set the fridge to 4 degrees to try it out.
Any coments?
cheers guys
 
Brewcraft were selling these for $33 so I decided to give one a try.
Contents:
Black rock pilsner blonde 1.7kg
Brewcraft #15 brew booster 1kg
Dry wheat malt 150g
15g cascade and 15g willamette - boiled in 2L water for 15 mins(for extra flavour I gather)
US-05
made up to 18L

Now the instructions said to strain the hops when adding the water to the fermenter however I put the lot in hoping maybe for a little more flavour/aroma from the boiled hops although I realise most of the aroma will have boiled away. Should I have strained it or is it ok to have added it? Im sure it will settle out for bottling.

Second qn is I have read it can be beneficial to cool the fermenter to 4 degrees or so after frementation proir to bottling, what is the advantage of this?
OG was 44 and FG today is 10 so I have just set the fridge to 4 degrees to try it out.
Any coments?
cheers guys

Not straining, least of your worries. How long has it been fermenting? Would give it another week at fermenting temp after it has finished (readings the same on 3 days). Then drop temp to clear the beer before finning and bottling.

cheers,

Screwy
 
crash chilling (dropping to 4deg or lower etc) helps drop the yeast out of the beer, and in turn hopefully more clear in the bottle with less yeast.

hope its nice
 
It went down on boxing day so its had a good 11 days in the fermenter, which will be 12 if I bottle it tomorrow.
If we are dropping yeast out, does that effect in any way how the priming sugars are consumed? Im sure not all the years will drop out.
 
dont stress about there not being enough yeast, there will be yeast for carb-ing the beer and you will still have sediment but just less.
 
I have just moved the fermenter in from the fridge in the shed to the kitchen for bottling, temp is 4 degrees and I noticed after moving inside it may have stirred some years up and its bubbling away again!!!!
How is this so at the colder temps?
If I let it get back to rrom temp to make sure its done will I have basically wasted my time crash cooling as the yeast will wake back up?
cheers
 
I think this is because there is more CO2 stored in cold fluid than room temp, so agitation will make it go up. (think of a soda bottle that kinda looks flat but shows very small bubbles after being shaken). Also, there would be some CO2 bubbles trapped in the trub at the bottom, so if your fermentation is finished (as per FG readings) then thats all it is.

this is consistent with bulk priming guidelines that incorporate temp readings for carbonation. If your beer is crash chilled, the starting amount of CO2 is greater than 18deg or so, which means you need less sugar to get the same level of carbonation. Needless to say, I learnt this the hard way (boom :rolleyes: )
 
Interesting. Have a mate doing one of these right now who asked me what I thought about the ingredients.

I told him that you'll get a nice tasty beer but don't expect a carbon copy of LCPA.

The hops are different to the original. The original has Chinook (bittering), East Kent Goldings (flavour) and US Cascade (finishing hop).

Will be a nice one to drink though :) Will be interested to try a sample of his when it's done.

Hopper.
 
Im not at all concerned if its not exactly as the original, my last batch using coopers australian ale and cooperd LME dry hopped with cascade came out close to LCPA so this new batch with more hops should be better again hopefully.
 
crash chilling (dropping to 4deg or lower etc) helps drop the yeast out of the beer, and in turn hopefully more clear in the bottle with less yeast.

hope its nice

Just wondering how long you sould keep it at 4deg, just set myself up with a fridge and fridgemate so i'll be able to do this stuff now.
 
Just wondering how long you sould keep it at 4deg, just set myself up with a fridge and fridgemate so i'll be able to do this stuff now.
I like to crash chill for around a week, but minimum 3 days, I'd say (just my opinion, you could probably get away with less if you wanted).

I will also take my brew out of the fridge for at least 24 hours before bottling. Not only does cold brew need different quantities of fermentables to prime (and thus buggering up any calculations that I may have done to hit desired carb levels for the style I'm making) but adding cold brew to warm bottles makes your bottling time so much longer than is needed (read: froth).
 
I like to crash chill for around a week, but minimum 3 days, I'd say (just my opinion, you could probably get away with less if you wanted).

I will also take my brew out of the fridge for at least 24 hours before bottling. Not only does cold brew need different quantities of fermentables to prime (and thus buggering up any calculations that I may have done to hit desired carb levels for the style I'm making) but adding cold brew to warm bottles makes your bottling time so much longer than is needed (read: froth).

Cool cheers, might keep the DSGA in the secondary for an extra week now.
 
on a side note, if your after an LCPA clone/copy, search boonies lcpa, I just kegged mine and tasted damm close even before it was carb'd.... Ill have more to report tomorrow when i pour one.

If you cant find the recipe, PM me, i have it saved on my work comp (what else is work good for)
 
This is Boonie's original LCPA recipe.
I brewed it about 3 years ago, and it worked very well.

1 tin Morgans Stockmans Draught
1.5 kg of Morgans Extra Pale Malt Extract (Liquid)
15g of Cascade pellets - 15min
10g Cluster pellets - 15 min
US05 Yeast.
12g of Chinook Pellets (dry hopped at rack).

Here's the source of the recipe: http://www.homebrewandbeer.com/forum/viewt...boonie%27s+lcpa
 

Latest posts

Back
Top