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So I followed the suggestion to throw some more yeast at my wort but I fear that it was beyond redemption.
No change occurred so I'll be looking a good clean up this weekend.
I'm planning on starting afresh with the same recipe (packaged ingredients) but will try to not only read the instructions this time, but to understand them as well.
And then read them again just in case I cocked it up like I did on the first try!
I'll be using a heat pad or belt (haven't decided which yet but happy to be schooled) and will try not to kill the yeast by scorching it to death.
Thanks for all of the support and suggestions, wish me luck!

Jez
 
Each yeast you use has its own 'just right' conditions for rehydrating, check the manufacturer's website as they will have a data sheet for the yeast with specific instructions.

I'll often add wort to the yeast (after the 15 minutes) to drop the temp and get it to the same as the fermenter.. Or at least within ~5'c..

Never pitch hot yeast to cold wort, they get thermal shock and don't like it very much

Good luck
 
Yob said:
Never pitch hot yeast to cold wort, they get thermal shock and don't like it very much

Good luck
Kind of like adding fish to an aquarium I suppose .... great info Yob, cheers.
 
Edgebrew said:
Hi Jez. Get a $20 brew belt off eBay or keg king and then buy a $12 reptile temp controller from eBay eg http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/171357425246%20

Sorted
Thanks Edgebrew.Suggestions noted and acted upon.
Now just need to wait for the postie to deliver them.
By the way, with the thermostat, I was thinking I would need to drill a hole in the top of the barrel to feed the probe into and then have it dangling in the middle of the wort (perhaps wrapped in a plastic bag or something.
Your thoughts?

Cheers
 
Crouch said:
That's a bummer man, good luck with the next brew!
I know but I have learnt a shed load already... so that's good!

Cheers Crouch
 
Brewller said:
Thanks Edgebrew.Suggestions noted and acted upon.
Now just need to wait for the postie to deliver them.
By the way, with the thermostat, I was thinking I would need to drill a hole in the top of the barrel to feed the probe into and then have it dangling in the middle of the wort (perhaps wrapped in a plastic bag or something.
Your thoughts?

Cheers
I'm still yet to sort out proper temperature control for fermentation but I have seen a lot of people on the forums simply tape temperature probes to the side of the fermenter and then tape an old stubbie holder over it. The neoprene helps isolate the temp probe from the ambient temperature and give a more accurate reading for the contents of the fermenter.
 
Crouch said:
I'm still yet to sort out proper temperature control for fermentation but I have seen a lot of people on the forums simply tape temperature probes to the side of the fermenter and then tape an old stubbie holder over it. The neoprene helps isolate the temp probe from the ambient temperature and give a more accurate reading for the contents of the fermenter.
I am selling my STC1000 temp controlled chest freezer with an insulated collar and heat pad and fan, if your interested. I'll sell it with a 60L plastic fermented with thermowell and a couple of 30L fermenters. The chest freezer is 2 years old. $250.
 
Black n Tan said:
I am selling my STC1000 temp controlled chest freezer with an insulated collar and heat pad and fan, if your interested. I'll sell it with a 60L plastic fermented with thermowell and a couple of 30L fermenters. The chest freezer is 2 years old. $250.
Might be something the OP would be interested in? I don't really need cold fermentation control as I dont brew lagers, and I'm fashioning up an insulated cupboard with temp controlled heating.

Thanks though.
 
Might be too late but you didn't actually throw this away did you?
The fact that the wort fermented suggests the yeast didn't get killed by your hydration (yeast can survive temps up to about 50 C from memory although there's no need to test that out at home).

Depending on what was in the booster, there's a chance it was finished. If stalled and repitching, your best bet is an active starter, not just a sprinkled pack.
Photo looks fine, although you should be leaving the lid on, so taste, smell and fast ferment tests are your friend.

Have a look in the article section for 'my beer is 1.022 - can I bottle it?'
 
manticle said:
Might be too late but you didn't actually throw this away did you?
The fact that the wort fermented suggests the yeast didn't get killed by your hydration (yeast can survive temps up to about 50 C from memory although there's no need to test that out at home).

Depending on what was in the booster, there's a chance it was finished. If stalled and repitching, your best bet is an active starter, not just a sprinkled pack.
Photo looks fine, although you should be leaving the lid on, so taste, smell and fast ferment tests are your friend.

Have a look in the article section for 'my beer is 1.022 - can I bottle it?'
Not yet Manticle. I'll check out that article and see how I get on. Thanks for the advice and reference as I haven't made it out of the newbie forum to look around much yet.

Cheers
 
Crouch said:
I'm still yet to sort out proper temperature control for fermentation but I have seen a lot of people on the forums simply tape temperature probes to the side of the fermenter and then tape an old stubbie holder over it. The neoprene helps isolate the temp probe from the ambient temperature and give a more accurate reading for the contents of the fermenter.
Sounds cool. I might give it a crack before I butcher my barrel!
 
Morning all, I just thought I would update you all on my progress.
Following my first erroneous and ultimately abortive effort, I tipped it out, cleaned up and started again.
I figured I had learned a few things from the first brew and wanted to try again with the same ingredients but this time armed with more information (and a healthy dose of caution!)
As in the first brew I used:
Mangrove Jacks Northern Bitter
Beer Essentials #15 brew blend malt booster
Lillemand Nottingham Ale Yeast
(I also used the yeast sachet that came with the bitter mix but more on that later)

I softened the bitter mix and added it in the fermenter with 2 litres of hot water
Added the malt
Stirred it up to dissolve
Added 20 litres of cold water
Added the sachet of yeast ( this was boiled separately to kill the yeast and was a suggestion by the guy at the brewshop)
Stirred it up
Added the Nottingham Yeast (Regular readers will note that I didn't kill this yeast like brew 1!!!)
Sealed the fermenter
Set the brew belt thermostat to 18degrees
Sat down and had a beer

I have been checked the SG and it has come from around 1035
Readings are:
16 Aug - 1030
19 Aug - 1025
23 Aug - 1020
30 Aug - 1018

I'm going to check it over the next couple of days to see if it is stabilised and then consider bottling.
Not sure what I need to do from here in preparation for and to complete bottling but I'm happy with progress so far.
Happy to hear any suggestions or advice!

Cheers

Jez
 
Hi DU99, I've got glass stubbies (Stella 330ml) and have crown seals and a hand capper (the two handed clamp type).
For cleaning I haven't really got a clear idea of what I'll do yet.
Any suggestions for a simple method that doesn't need loads of space?

Cheers

Jez
 
Sodium perc for cleaning andfor bonus points starsan to sanitize although not 100% neccesary if you use sodium perc with boiling water. Good to use it to be sure though
 
Thanks guys.

Beercus, I'd love a bottle tree but am severely limited on space to store and/or use it.
I've been using the bonnet of 'her indoors' car as a work bench. If she knew I was using the good bath towels to keep dry things off she would none too pleased!

Cheers guys

Jez
 

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