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What if you split the outlet from the kettle and used 2 or more 30 plate chillers, like the ones from BB or mashmaster?

Farside.

I have a 30 plate and running two would probably be adequate but I'm mostly concerned about the cleaning of it as the one in the link in able to be stripped down.
 
Brewers,

Iv'e come to a bit of a problem, I need a reduction gearbox and I cant find any.

The Mashtun is going to have a set of fingers to slowly stir the mash.
I have a 3 phase 1/2 hp vsd and motor but the gearbox I have is far too fast ~14:1.
I'm looking for a reduction drive with or without motor that is more like 50:1.
Any help would be appreciated, I have looked through ebay but most suitable are pick up only and i'm 4 hours from Melbourne.

Cheers
 
I have a 30 plate and running two would probably be adequate but I'm mostly concerned about the cleaning of it as the one in the link in able to be stripped down.
I will be running two small heat exchangers, running cool water through both. The first should get it down to 30 odd degrees and the second to whatever the water temp. Your march pumps will limit the flow anyway. I would try putting one pump out of the kettle and one between the heat exchangers to push the beer along. Larger pumps are just over the $1K that can handle the 99 degree wort.

Cleaning the heat exchangers only requires a soak with PBW or hot caustic, then flush backwards with hot water.

Once cleanly rinsed, cycle boiling wort through the pumps and chillers to sterilise them at the end of the boil, then chill as normal.

That's what I am planning anyway.
 
Bike chain and sprockets. You might need a couple to get to 50:1.

Lethal: Are you volunteering to do all the pedaling? :unsure:



Sounds like a good plan beerforal, Ill just have to suck it and see..
 
For your reduction, put a big pulley on your shaft and a v belt to a small pulley on your motor.
Less efficient than the chain drive, but much quieter and a little bit friendlier.
For 50:1 reduction, you want a 50mm pully on your motor and a 180mm pulley on your 14.1 gearbox

Bit of mucking around to mount the thing though.
 
For your reduction, put a big pulley on your shaft and a v belt to a small pulley on your motor.
Less efficient than the chain drive, but much quieter and a little bit friendlier.
For 50:1 reduction, you want a 50mm pully on your motor and a 180mm pulley on your 14.1 gearbox

Bit of mucking around to mount the thing though.

Yeah, I would like to keep it to a neat motor coupled directly to a 90deg reduction box, the only problem with the one I have is that the motor is going too slow and well out of its torque range. I think pulleys or chains would be a pain to set up.
 
I dont know if you are in the vicinity of any dairies but dairy auctions or closing dairies would likely have a heat exchanger suitable. Good chance there might be an old one floating around too as many people upgrade over the years. Plenty of dairies shutting down so could be worth a few visits?
 
I dont know if you are in the vicinity of any dairies but dairy auctions or closing dairies would likely have a heat exchanger suitable. Good chance there might be an old one floating around too as many people upgrade over the years. Plenty of dairies shutting down so could be worth a few visits?

There are a few small dairies around my area I have already scavenged a lot of stainless goodies from one that was upgrading but the H/E was kept.
I think an ad in the Local paper would prob be the way to go.

Cheers.
 
Jonathan: I have no idea the size of your Mash Tun and you appear to be committed to a finger type paddle, but to my mind I would have thought a worm (screw) type agitator would be the go as it would require less torque and less speed reduction. I could be wrong just a thought.

Cheers :icon_cheers:
 
How about one of these from CBC bearings,

http://www.conbear.com/files/content.php?s...;sec3=motovario

They come in all sorts of reductions as they custom build for the application.

They look good, Ill get a quote, could be interesting $$....

Jonathan: I have no idea the size of your Mash Tun and you appear to be committed to a finger type paddle, but to my mind I would have thought a worm (screw) type agitator would be the go as it would require less torque and less speed reduction. I could be wrong just a thought.

Cheers :icon_cheers:

This is similar to the mash fingers I will be using. A screw would also be an interesting option.

rakeslg.jpg
 
Sir Johnathon

you really want to brew ordinary beer with that beautiful sculpture?

:icon_chickcheers:
 
"3d Virtual Online Brewing" Zwickel
It's the latest craze
 
Question time.......

How should I return the wort from the HERMS to the top of the Mash tun?

I was thinking, seeing it will be mixing most of the time i was just going to have a single outlet just under the wort level.
I really don't want anything that is in the way of the mixer.

Cheers...

By the way, it is bloody freezing in the shed today, but I must go on...
 
Yes, if its being mixed i cant see why a simple outlet just under the top(thru the side of the tun) of the wort wont work. With a decent flow (def. not an 809) throwing the wort away from the side of the tun.
It would be nice to have the height adjustable for high og beers. Are you batch or fly sparging
 
3G
I plan to batch sparge at this stage.
On the inside of the mash tun inlet i think ill put a tri-clover fitting so i can try different heights and setups.
 
yes, a triclover fitting will be awesome. What pump are you going to use? I use an 809 on a 50litre herms system and its only just powerful enough.
 
I'm using 809's also but word on the street is they may bee too small, we shall see.

have a look at about page 12 there is a pic of the pumps..
 
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