fraser_john
Go Pies
Man, this is such a good concept!Batz said:<snip> o/night mashing <snip>
Man, this is such a good concept!Batz said:<snip> o/night mashing <snip>
tks Batz, good to know.Batz said:For my o/night I mash-out at 77C, never had a problem with astringency either. Mash-out nominally sits for around 6 hours.
I also use this method and the only difference that I can detect is a slight darkening in colour of the wort and a couple of point improvement in my mash efficiency.Batz said:For my o/night I mash-out at 77C, never had a problem with astringency either. Mash-out nominally sits for around 6 hours.
I may have worried once, but I've been doing this every brew day now for a few years. Never give it a second thought these days.Goose said:.... wear and tear on the pumps and additional power bill not an issue ?
My reasoning is that if I let the mash run overnight and sit at 77 until I get up, that's an hour or more saved in the morning. All I have to do is pull the malt pipe and go straight into the boil.razz said:I've just filled the BM for a brew overnight and this time I thought "bugger it" I'm just going to dough in with the system switched off and get up at 7 and turn it on and start the mash.
Well nobody can be bothered to answer on the "other" forum and perhaps my question there was a little vague but will try my luck here instead with a more detailed question.dicko said:On another forum many members there are from England and they use the cold extended period ............
This one interests me. When you say total water, you mean during the mash I presume. So the malt pipe would be submerged during the process ? Are there any efficiency differences vs sparging ?razz said:I think some of us are running an urn to do sparge water. The other thing you can do is add your total water required to the BM and do a no sparge. Your figures look okay to me. After your first couple of brews you will be able to fine tune your numbers and get them bang on. Sorry for not being on the other forum, i was in the shed brewing. :chug:
zoigl said:I weigh all my water additions, and leftovers. Don't forget that the malt tube with wet grain comes into the equation, (like I did as a beginner.) My plastic jugs are not accurate with the volumes marked.
A traveller's hand scale is helpful. 1kg = 1 litre
Top line = 52 litres
I lauter with 10 litres @78c but there seems to be a lot of room with this temperature, don't go over 78c seems the rule to avoid excess tannins. I use an urn with a temperature control, plug in variety, see Keg King catalogue.
With 10 kg grain @ mash in, I end up with around 37 kg as trub/wet grain in the tube.
The original tap on my mark 1 model about 6 years old works really well, I do not understand why any one would want to change it, MHB seems to have started this move, I couldn't see how he could have cleaned his tap, so I stayed with the original and am very happy with it. Silicon hose will clamp onto it. Use a simple clamp with the plastic finger turning attachment.
hope this helps, cheers
Yes with a submerged malt pipe. Bring all the water up to your required mash in temperature, then drain enough out into a bucket to allow you to insert the malt pipe and add your malt. Once this is done re-introduce the water from your bucket and mash as normal.Goose said:This one interests me. When you say total water, you mean during the mash I presume. So the malt pipe would be submerged during the process ? Are there any efficiency differences vs sparging ?
Today I brewed using the Brau without my urn to heat some sparge water. I usually sparge with 8-10L.Goose said:Well nobody can be bothered to answer on the "other" forum and perhaps my question there was a little vague but will try my luck here instead with a more detailed question.
I'm new to this kit and plan to give it a run after I've done my homework and modded my outlet valve after parts arrive. My objective is to get 44 litres of wort into my fermenter. I am trying to calculate how much sparge water I need to use.
The reverse engineered calculation goes like this:
Target volume: 44.0 l (into fermenter)
add loss to Trub (loss in BM) 4.0
add loss to chiller 1.0
add cooling shrinkage 2.0
add boil loss 5.0 (1 hour, 8.9%)
Total to boil: 56.0 l
now, if I fill the BM to the standard 53 litres (just reading instruction manual) and conduct the mash, assuming a 9.5 kg grain weight bill;
grain absorbtion 9.5 l (@ 1 kg/l)
volume of wort before sparge 43.5 l
sparge volume required: 12.5 l (to take me to 56.0 l boil volume)
Am I right ? if I am, then this becomes a 2V system because I now need to go out and buy a mega sized pot and sit and watch it till I heat up and retain water at 76 degrees C for the sparge. Arrggh. :huh:
Over on the other forum it has been quoted on several occasions by many brewers that a full volume mash does not lose any efficiency percentage points.Cervantes said:Yes with a submerged malt pipe. Bring all the water up to your required mash in temperature, then drain enough out into a bucket to allow you to insert the malt pipe and add your malt. Once this is done re-introduce the water from your bucket and mash as normal.
I've only done this a couple of times and don't recall the exact figures, but I'm pretty sure that there was no loss of efficiency.
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