Braumeister - Tips & Tricks

[tiprya]

I mill at 1.1mm, never stir, and have used 50% wheat without fountains.

No idea what's causing yours, just wanted to add my experience.

I do make sure it is very well mixed at dough in though - maybe this helps?

 

[Crusty]

It's definitly craked too fine. I had a similar issue ( not as bad as that ) when trying to bump my efficiency up a tad by cracking finer.
Open up the gap on your mill & settle for a slight drop in efficiency. I think stirring is a total waste of time too for minimal gain.
The Braumeister will do the work fro you so let it do it's thing. The pump break allows the grain to settle as well & you will achieve a clear wort to your fermenter or no chill cube. If you continue to disrupt the grain bed, I think you'll find it near impossible to achieve a crystal clear wort ( if you think it's necessary )
I used to do several temp rests & this boosted my efficiency into the mid to high 70"s ( brewhouse ) but now I usually just settle for a 50deg mash in, 52deg protein rest & a single infusion @ 64-66deg followed by a mash out @ 78deg & a batch sparge. I drop a tad in efficiency to 70-72% but it's set & forget. Nothing better than pushing the start button & then getting something else done like mowing the lawn.

 

[brewchampion]

Thanks for the advice Crusty and "BeerGod"
I probably was pushing it a bit doing wheat and a 1.2 crack.
Although I've read other brewers like BeerGod successfully completed this combo.

So next time ill crack bigger (1.5mm). Set and forget unless I get channeling.
My efficiency was 84% (MHB/Brebuilder calcs , not BS).
Ill drop that to 74% for a bigger crack.
Sounds reasonable?

I also need to improve the top screen seal.
Tons of grain came through it (See pic below from after boil, check the rim!)
Im struggling to source a decent rubber seal thats food safe.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0ByP8AKj1KwWOZXQ5ZmFDYi00Rmc/edit?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0ByP8AKj1KwWOWllvTVhlTzh0MGM/edit?usp=sharing

 

[niels]

I think stirring is a total waste of time too for minimal gain.

I agree for a normal malt bill, but when I brewed a wit with 50% raw wheat I'm my pumps were grateful that I stirred a few times in the beginning of the mash.

- Niels

 

[Rurik]

I mill at 1.1mm, never stir, and have used 50% wheat without fountains.

No idea what's causing yours, just wanted to add my experience.

I do make sure it is very well mixed at dough in though - maybe this helps?

This is my experience but I have brewed with 60% wheat.

 

[wobbly]

Not sure if it has been posted before but if you experience a problem with the control box display flashing "on and off" or no display at all when you power up it may well be a failed capacitor on the PC board as described in the attachment

The control unit on my 20lt BM showed these characteristics and today it was dead. Opened the control box and located the capacitor in question and is shows a domed top as detailed so I'm in the process of having it changed and upgraded to a 25 volt ratting

Cheers

Wobbly

View attachment kondensator-wechsel-2013.pdf

 

[crhall41]

Does anyone with a 50L BM have trouble keeping a roiling (or is it rolling :blink boil without the lid being at least part way on? My preference is to keep it off to reduce DMS but I have not been able to do so. I set the temp to 102C but it typically hovers in the 99-100C range and this does not get me the vigorous boil needed. Needless to say this is requiring me to stay by the BM to pop the lid off consistently to drain off the condensate. My one thought is that I am using a 10ft extension cord to get the BM out of the garage. Does anyone else use an extension cord?

thanks, Chris

 

[Dan Pratt]

I have mine plugged into the wall directly, but when I used an extension cord which was 5meters the boil was the same, low......

One of the cons on the BM in my opinion is the low boil, its far from vigourus. I have recently made (dicko's idea) the SS colander into a hood and the boil is now great, it really increases the vigor.

Here is the link on another site, worth getting one sorted.

https://forum.braumeisters.net/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=197

 

[Crusty]

Does anyone with a 50L BM have trouble keeping a roiling (or is it rolling :blink boil without the lid being at least part way on? My preference is to keep it off to reduce DMS but I have not been able to do so. I set the temp to 102C but it typically hovers in the 99-100C range and this does not get me the vigorous boil needed. Needless to say this is requiring me to stay by the BM to pop the lid off consistently to drain off the condensate. My one thought is that I am using a 10ft extension cord to get the BM out of the garage. Does anyone else use an extension cord?

thanks, Chris

I use a 15A extension cord which is about 10m long from memory. I haven't plugged the BM directly into the wall but can't see how that would make any difference really. Getting used to a simmering boil is hard & I used to boil with a 32jet Mongolian & thought the BM had something wrong with it until I got used to it. Why are you needing such a vigorous boil. Just boil for 90mins if you are worried about DMS or adjust your software to compensate for more volume after the boil. I water tested mine with no lid & get 6l/hr boil off which is more than enough. This things designed by some pretty smart people so don't worry that your beers will be worse off by not boiling it like a bitch.

 

[doon]

Go buy a ss bowl for 12 bucks cut a 15cm hole in it and bam way better boil for a lot less then bm official dome

 

[zoigl]

I reckon that you had better look at where your responses are coming from. In Australia we have 240 volts, I am not sure what you are getting in the US but my guess is around 110 volts.
I lived in Japan for a number of years and they have 100 AND 110 volts depending where you live. The difference when using a microwave oven is amazing.
Recently I purchased a coffee roaster and the label is quite definite, do not use an extension.
I manage a rolling boil but our climate could possibly be warmer here in South Australia. Also I use a camping mat cut to fit around the BM. A tip here is to make a heavy brown paper pattern, then it is easy to replace.
I use a 10 meter extension with my BM, the first one labelled as 15 amp burnt out over time, I purchased this at our local B*nning* hardware store, it lasted a couple of years so was hard to return. The new extension is marked also at 15 amps but the cable is far heavier.
I use a copper top as well, but a SS bowl with a hole cut into the bottom should work too.

 

[Batz]

Although the BM boil is a little less active than what I had with my old kettle I still found it adequate. All that said, I got caught up in the boil hype and bought a jacket and hood. You can make a jacket from a camping mat, a hood from a stainless bowl and your off and running. I did have a couple of good months of work so I bought the real thing, waste of money perhaps, but it does look sexy. The boil now needs to be turned down from the 102C, otherwise it will boil out the top.

Batz

 

[Black n Tan]

Although the BM boil is a little less active than what I had with my old kettle I still found it adequate. All that said, I got caught up in the boil hype and bought a jacket and hood. You can make a jacket from a camping mat, a hood from a stainless bowl and your off and running. I did have a couple of good months of work so I bought the real thing, waste of money perhaps, but it does look sexy. The boil now needs to be turned down from the 102C, otherwise it will boil out the top.

Batz

I have the same set-up although I have the much sexier copper hood. I not sure the more vigorous boil equals better beer, but it probably saves some energy (not enough to cover the cost of original BM add-ons I suspect). I like the ghetto option. Some early hops usually quells the boil-over so I often add some FWH. If there is no early hops I add a few drops of FermCapS (simethicone, the same ingredient in infacol).

 

[Batz]

Thanks B&T, I'll try some FWH, tomorrows brew day, where do you get FermCapS?

Batz

 

[Black n Tan]

I got it from Grain and Grape. It is kept in the fridge, but I am sure could be posted fine. The best thing about it is when making yeast starters. One drop is enough in a starter and the risk of boil over is almost eliminated. Once I reach a simmer I know I can walk away and come back in 15 minutes. Not one boil over since using it.

 

[Batz]

I got it from Grain and Grape. It is kept in the fridge, but I am sure could be posted fine. The best thing about it is when making yeast starters. One drop is enough in a starter and the risk of boil over is almost eliminated. Once I reach a simmer I know I can walk away and come back in 15 minutes. Not one boil over since using it.

Cheers, I wonder what's in it? I'm a bit suss about adding stuff to my beer. I can't see it on their website.

Batz

 

[Murdoch]

I have the 50L Brau & the boil is much less than I would like
So I supplement it with an immersion heater & it now has a vigorous boil
Completely separate from hop utilization there is a big difference in break formation !

 

[alcoadam]

I leave the lid 3/4 on and have never had any issues, boil/beer is fine. Just keep an eye on things before the boil starts....can get messy <_<

 

[Brew Matt]

Does anyone have a good Pale Ale recipe for the BM50 that they are willing to share or point me towards.

 

[Black n Tan]

Cheers, I wonder what's in it? I'm a bit suss about adding stuff to my beer. I can't see it on their website.

Batz

The active ingredient is simethicone which is a surfactant. They claim it not only doesn't harm head retention, but in fact can aid it by retaining head forming proteins. it is the same stuff used in things like Infacol used to treat colic (gas) in babies. If your a purist it may not be for you, but it is pretty harmless and extremely low levels. Check it out on the morebeer site.

EDIT: G&G certainly sell it, they get it from Morebeer in the US.