Braumeister - Tips & Tricks

[crhall41]

Hi I ran into a slight problem with liquid malt extract getting into my pumps on my last brew day. I used a can of LME to offset some of the grain bill for my high OG beer I was brewing and added it as the BM was ramping up from mash out temp to boiling temp. I suppose in the future the best thing to do will be to pre mix it with some amount of wort in a separate pot before adding to the BM. One afterthought was to wonder if you can manually activate the pumps during a brew session without having to abort it. I do not think you can pause a programmed session to activate the pumps, but I could be wrong. How do others handle the use of LME?

Chris

On tap - Duck-Rabbit milk stout clone
Just brewed - Pliny the Elder double IPA clone
In the queue - Jack Abbey baltic porter clone

Btw hopefully this post as a new thread rather than a reply...

 

[tallie]

Hi I ran into a slight problem with liquid malt extract getting into my pumps on my last brew day. I used a can of LME to offset some of the grain bill for my high OG beer I was brewing and added it as the BM was ramping up from mash out temp to boiling temp. I suppose in the future the best thing to do will be to pre mix it with some amount of wort in a separate pot before adding to the BM. One afterthought was to wonder if you can manually activate the pumps during a brew session without having to abort it. I do not think you can pause a programmed session to activate the pumps, but I could be wrong. How do others handle the use of LME?

Chris

Btw hopefully this post as a new thread rather than a reply...

Nope, reply

Why not just add the extract when it comes to the boil (or after whatever temperature the pump stops at)? Unfortunately I'm not aware of any option to modify the program once it's started without starting again.

 

[SnakeDoctor]

Hi I ran into a slight problem with liquid malt extract getting into my pumps on my last brew day. I used a can of LME to offset some of the grain bill for my high OG beer I was brewing and added it as the BM was ramping up from mash out temp to boiling temp. I suppose in the future the best thing to do will be to pre mix it with some amount of wort in a separate pot before adding to the BM. One afterthought was to wonder if you can manually activate the pumps during a brew session without having to abort it. I do not think you can pause a programmed session to activate the pumps, but I could be wrong. How do others handle the use of LME?

Chris

On tap - Duck-Rabbit milk stout clone
Just brewed - Pliny the Elder double IPA clone
In the queue - Jack Abbey baltic porter clone

Btw hopefully this post as a new thread rather than a reply...

Just add it whilst the pump is running, before it gets too hot close to the boil, i'd probably add it just after the mash out.

 

[Dan Pratt]

I had the same problem one time when i added liquid malt to the boil and it wasn't till clean up i found the pump line full of extract.....in future take 5lts of wort out of the boil and add the liquid malt and get that all mixed in then add back to the boil.

 

[tallie]

I had the same problem one time when i added liquid malt to the boil and it wasn't till clean up i found the pump line full of extract.....in future take 5lts of wort out of the boil and add the liquid malt and get that all mixed in then add back to the boil.

Ah, I didn't realise the OP meant there was extract in the pump at the end of the boil (I thought it was a problem with the pumps getting blocked with goo while raising to the boil).

 

[Mr. No-Tip]

I've only ever used DME, but I slowly add it towards the end of the boil. I don't see the point in boiling extract for an hour, and I had an extract die hard explain to me why late additions are better but I can't recall why right now. He claimed full length boils of extract contribute to it's low opinion among many brewers.

 

[crhall41]

I've only ever used DME, but I slowly add it towards the end of the boil. I don't see the point in boiling extract for an hour, and I had an extract die hard explain to me why late additions are better but I can't recall why right now. He claimed full length boils of extract contribute to it's low opinion among many brewers.

Mr. No-Tip; Yes I just checked John Palmer's 'How To Brew' book and he does note to add the LME 5 minutes before the end off the boil though no mention of the reason. I suppose at this time you can just end the BM program and manually activate both the pumps and the heater for the final 5 minutes. Crossing my fingers that my IPA still turns out okay!

 

[doon]

Pump wont operate above a certain temp even in manual

 

[niels]

Pump wont operate above a certain temp even in manual

Indeed! Above 88°C the pump(s) don't work.

- Niels

 

[Mr. No-Tip]

I don't think you need the pumps to get you extract in - slow pour and rigorous stir.

 

[crhall41]

I've only ever used DME, but I slowly add it towards the end of the boil. I don't see the point in boiling extract for an hour, and I had an extract die hard explain to me why late additions are better but I can't recall why right now. He claimed full length boils of extract contribute to it's low opinion among many brewers.

Received this email from BeerSmith two days late but it does provide the explanation of why you add extract late in the boil.

"Both liquid and dried malt extract beers suffer from an effect called a Maillard reaction as well as carmelization when brewing. A Maillard reaction is a chemical reaction that occurs between amino acids and sugars in the wort, and it accentuated by the use of extract in a concentrated boil. Carmelization occurs when liquid extract or excess sugars settle to the bottom of the brew pot during the boil and the sugars carmelize (harden) in the bottom of the pot. Of the two, the Maillard reaction actually accounts for the majority of the color darkening. This typically darkens the beer, and in extreme cases can also affect the taste of the beer. Obviously this is a problem for brewers of light colored beers. The effect is also common in high gravity beers in small brew pots because of the higher proportion of extract to water when boiling."

Live and learn B)

 

[brewchampion]

My First Saison in the 20L
I know its been discussed before, and ive been stopping and stirring every 5-10 minutes...

Vienna Malt (GER) 0.850 20%
Wheat Pale (GER) 0.850 20.1%
Weyermann Pale Ale 2.300 53.6%
Approx Total Grain Weight 4.3

1.2mm crack

no rubber seal on the top filter

http://youtu.be/IalQwo74VbI

http://youtu.be/Z4f8jjilZtw

http://youtu.be/OyPzEG8F0C0

Movies shot 10 minutes apart after removing screen and stirring up and continuing program

Be very happy with a suggestion.

 

[Edak]

What temperature did you mash in at? I find when adding 20% of above in wheat that mashing in as low as 40c does seem to eliminate this fountain problem for me.

 

[brewchampion]

What temperature did you mash in at? I find when adding 20% of above in wheat that mashing in as low as 40c does seem to eliminate this fountain problem for me.

Hi Edak,

Mashed in at 38 for 20 mins, stir, up to protein rest with 2 stirs on the way up, 25 mins at protein rest, then up to the 63 stirring every 10 minutes.
Im tired! and sticky.

 

[Dan Pratt]

^ ^ tired and sticky.....you paid for a machine to do the work and your stirring it...... :huh: Seriously with only 4kg of grain there is no reason to stir the mash after you have mashed in.

The water to grain ratio if you mashed in with 25lts is 6.25:1 and the room to move within the malt pipe for 4kg of malt is very good. The only beers that I stop and stir are >6kg and this is only before the main rest and during the main rest and this is becuase there in only 4.1lts per kg which in normal mash tuns is double what you need but with the BM and malt pipe's volume, it can do with a stir.

I get higher efficiency from >6kg malt bills by stirrng.. and I get even higher from small 3-4kg malt bills without stirring.

 

[tipsy]

^ ^ tired and sticky.....you paid for a machine to do the work and your stirring it...... :huh:

It has a pump break every now and again to settle the grain bed...would stirring affect this?

 

[lukec]

Did you mill the grain yourself. You usually only get fountains with a to fine of a crush

 

[lukec]

How fine was the grain crushed. If it's to fine you will get fountains

 

[brewchampion]

1.2mm crack

And the stiring should help the channelling:
Back in post #46 "Brew Master" refferenced a pod cast where they inteviewd a Norweigen brewer who uses a 20lt Braumeister and has done more than 100 brews with his system. If you haven't listed to it it might be worth your while.
He stated that he pauses the mash program about every 10 to 15 minutes a few times and gives the mash a gentle stir and this improves effeciency and helps to avoid any channeling as well as "frees up" the grain bed to help the pump. I have tried this and it certainly visably improved the flow over the side of the malt pipe each time after the first two pause and stirs on a grain bill of 5.3kg The third pause and stir didn't visually indicate any further improvement in flow over the side of the side of the malt pipe. I will keep doing this for a few more brews and see where it leads me. I guess with doing this you just need to be very carefull not to get any grain over the side of the malt pipe.

But that diddnt work today.

So im going for a larger crack next time.

 

[lael]

Too much effort for a 1 point / similar gain in efficiency. Crack slightly larger, set and forget... so much less hassle.

 

[tiprya]

I mill at 1.1mm, never stir, and have used 50% wheat without fountains.

No idea what's causing yours, just wanted to add my experience.

I do make sure it is very well mixed at dough in though - maybe this helps?

 

[Crusty]

It's definitly craked too fine. I had a similar issue ( not as bad as that ) when trying to bump my efficiency up a tad by cracking finer.
Open up the gap on your mill & settle for a slight drop in efficiency. I think stirring is a total waste of time too for minimal gain.
The Braumeister will do the work fro you so let it do it's thing. The pump break allows the grain to settle as well & you will achieve a clear wort to your fermenter or no chill cube. If you continue to disrupt the grain bed, I think you'll find it near impossible to achieve a crystal clear wort ( if you think it's necessary )
I used to do several temp rests & this boosted my efficiency into the mid to high 70"s ( brewhouse ) but now I usually just settle for a 50deg mash in, 52deg protein rest & a single infusion @ 64-66deg followed by a mash out @ 78deg & a batch sparge. I drop a tad in efficiency to 70-72% but it's set & forget. Nothing better than pushing the start button & then getting something else done like mowing the lawn.

 

[brewchampion]

Thanks for the advice Crusty and "BeerGod"
I probably was pushing it a bit doing wheat and a 1.2 crack.
Although I've read other brewers like BeerGod successfully completed this combo.

So next time ill crack bigger (1.5mm). Set and forget unless I get channeling.
My efficiency was 84% (MHB/Brebuilder calcs , not BS).
Ill drop that to 74% for a bigger crack.
Sounds reasonable?

I also need to improve the top screen seal.
Tons of grain came through it (See pic below from after boil, check the rim!)
Im struggling to source a decent rubber seal thats food safe.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0ByP8AKj1KwWOZXQ5ZmFDYi00Rmc/edit?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0ByP8AKj1KwWOWllvTVhlTzh0MGM/edit?usp=sharing

 

[niels]

I think stirring is a total waste of time too for minimal gain.

I agree for a normal malt bill, but when I brewed a wit with 50% raw wheat I'm my pumps were grateful that I stirred a few times in the beginning of the mash.

- Niels

 

[Rurik]

I mill at 1.1mm, never stir, and have used 50% wheat without fountains.

No idea what's causing yours, just wanted to add my experience.

I do make sure it is very well mixed at dough in though - maybe this helps?

This is my experience but I have brewed with 60% wheat.

 

[wobbly]

Not sure if it has been posted before but if you experience a problem with the control box display flashing "on and off" or no display at all when you power up it may well be a failed capacitor on the PC board as described in the attachment

The control unit on my 20lt BM showed these characteristics and today it was dead. Opened the control box and located the capacitor in question and is shows a domed top as detailed so I'm in the process of having it changed and upgraded to a 25 volt ratting

Cheers

Wobbly

View attachment kondensator-wechsel-2013.pdf

 

[crhall41]

Does anyone with a 50L BM have trouble keeping a roiling (or is it rolling :blink boil without the lid being at least part way on? My preference is to keep it off to reduce DMS but I have not been able to do so. I set the temp to 102C but it typically hovers in the 99-100C range and this does not get me the vigorous boil needed. Needless to say this is requiring me to stay by the BM to pop the lid off consistently to drain off the condensate. My one thought is that I am using a 10ft extension cord to get the BM out of the garage. Does anyone else use an extension cord?

thanks, Chris

 

[Dan Pratt]

I have mine plugged into the wall directly, but when I used an extension cord which was 5meters the boil was the same, low......

One of the cons on the BM in my opinion is the low boil, its far from vigourus. I have recently made (dicko's idea) the SS colander into a hood and the boil is now great, it really increases the vigor.

Here is the link on another site, worth getting one sorted.

https://forum.braumeisters.net/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=197

 

[Crusty]

Does anyone with a 50L BM have trouble keeping a roiling (or is it rolling :blink boil without the lid being at least part way on? My preference is to keep it off to reduce DMS but I have not been able to do so. I set the temp to 102C but it typically hovers in the 99-100C range and this does not get me the vigorous boil needed. Needless to say this is requiring me to stay by the BM to pop the lid off consistently to drain off the condensate. My one thought is that I am using a 10ft extension cord to get the BM out of the garage. Does anyone else use an extension cord?

thanks, Chris

I use a 15A extension cord which is about 10m long from memory. I haven't plugged the BM directly into the wall but can't see how that would make any difference really. Getting used to a simmering boil is hard & I used to boil with a 32jet Mongolian & thought the BM had something wrong with it until I got used to it. Why are you needing such a vigorous boil. Just boil for 90mins if you are worried about DMS or adjust your software to compensate for more volume after the boil. I water tested mine with no lid & get 6l/hr boil off which is more than enough. This things designed by some pretty smart people so don't worry that your beers will be worse off by not boiling it like a bitch.

 

[doon]

Go buy a ss bowl for 12 bucks cut a 15cm hole in it and bam way better boil for a lot less then bm official dome