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Flowers can be a bit of a pain as they can sometimes get caught in the tap at packaging time. However flowers are perfect for french pressing (that is a coffee plunger, i didn't know first time i heard it!) Pellets swell too much when hydrated in a french press.

About 5 days after pitching, when fermentation has slowed right down
Put 20g or so in the french press
Boil up 500-100ml of water and add it in with the hops (obviously dependent on how big a plunger you have 2L one are good)
leave for 5 mins
press down the plunger
Pour hot hop tea into the fermenter, which will immediately cool the tea and lock in the flavour and aroma from the hops.

Put another 20g into a hop bag and throw it straight into the fermenter too, for another hit of aroma.

Shoudl come out nice, with a big punch of late hop flavour and aroma


This sounds great, is 20g for a 23L batch? I havent got round to my LHBS yet, but they dont have galaxy, I'll pick up a coffee plunger from Coles.
 
This sounds great, is 20g for a 23L batch? I havent got round to my LHBS yet, but they dont have galaxy, I'll pick up a coffee plunger from Coles.

yeah 20g is about right for a 23L batch approx 1 gram per litre is fairly standard. If you're going to coles get the biggest plunger you can... i think they have 2L ones for $19.95... that's what i use.
 
would Perle and Amarillo or Nelson Sauvin go well together??

I have heard Perle has a mint like flavour, and I thought fruit and mint would go well together?

Ok so most people dont seem to like summer saaz.. good cause I only got Bsaaz flowers anyways.. Is Bsaaz good enough to use on its own, or should I mix it with something else?
 
I would use the b saaz on its own. I found it gives a nice spicy/cirtussy note.

Also if you're just starting out with hops, using only one will help you get an idea of what each hop is like. Then you can start combining them.
 
Also if you're just starting out with hops, using only one will help you get an idea of what each hop is like. Then you can start combining them.
Good advice, I have all these plans of hop mixtures but I am getting ahead of myself.
I got to learn how they all taste before I start getting adventurous.
 
I would use the b saaz on its own. I found it gives a nice spicy/cirtussy note.

Also if you're just starting out with hops, using only one will help you get an idea of what each hop is like. Then you can start combining them.


Good point Earle, excellent advice.. I will do the Bsaaz on its own..

as its only a half recipe 11-12L, this is what I have planned using 'crescent lager' recipe from Laurie Strachan's book:

1kg Coopers light DME
500g Coopers BE1
7g Bsaaz full boil (maybe)
7g Bsaaz 10 min (maybe)
7g Bsaaz end boil (maybe)
US-05 yeast

I have no irish moss, and no way its going to be a lager, it will be ale.. as for ale yeast: I have three types at hand, which are:

the one from the Coopers Australian Pale Ale Kit
Safale t-58
Danstar Nottingham

I havent gotten round to my LHBS yet, probably wont be able to for awhile now. So do I need the Irish Moss, and which of these yeasts would be best. I know Im ill equipt, even my capper is the dodgey hammering kind (should be called a crapper) though I have only smashed a few bottles while using it.
 
No need for irish moss. If you can keep temps around 18-20C just leave it for a week once fermentation has completed, this allows the yeast to settle.

T-58 is a belgian style yeast which will produce spicy flavours. While this could complement the B Saaz I wouldn't use it in this case as it will confuse the taste of the hops which is what you're trying to learn.

I would go the nottingham. As an ale yeast its known as a high attenuator meaning it won't leave as much residual sweetness.

Do yourself a favour and get a supa-automatica for capping. No more broken bottles and danger.
 
Do yourself a favour and get a supa-automatica for capping. No more broken bottles and danger.


I think I will.. cause Im not liking the PET bottles (they lose carbonation over time) and I have alot of glass long necks.
 
Ok so Im excited about the range of hops out there and already have in mind the ones I want to try. So whats better pellets or flowers.. Can anyone enlighten me on there positives and negative points, and uses..

I have just been looking on the brewshop web site and they must of added more because their range has grown since last time I checked. :D :D :lol: :lol:
 
I've got all the bits and pieces to do my first extract brew, or Kit using the Cerveza, except I have no way to maintain the temps 18-20 deg.. and its been hot in Sydney.. just gonna get hotter..

Can I get an opinion on Esky? are they worth it cause some seem to cost almost as much as a ebay fridge. I only have a small amount of space so a full sized fridge is out of the question.. but for $$ and space efficiency what would you guys recommend.
 
I've got all the bits and pieces to do my first extract brew, or Kit using the Cerveza, except I have no way to maintain the temps 18-20 deg.. and its been hot in Sydney.. just gonna get hotter..

Can I get an opinion on Esky? are they worth it cause some seem to cost almost as much as a ebay fridge. I only have a small amount of space so a full sized fridge is out of the question.. but for $$ and space efficiency what would you guys recommend.


thoughts (in no particular order of preference)

1. Find a dead fridge (smallish). Use some bottled ice and rotate to maintain temp. Fridge doesn't have to work to do this. Just needs to seal and insulate from outside temp, and keep inside temp in.
2. Buy a larger size bar fridge - carefully check that a fermenter will fit in it first obviously...You can generally get them for maybe $150?
3. I recently scored a medium size fridge from the local recyling yard. it was on the side of the lot where the cars pull in, and there was 15mins before they closed for the afternoon. I saw the manager doing some sweeping, and i asked him what was going to happen to the fridge. His reply, "mate, i'm gonna turn around and continue sweeping, and if by the time i look up it's gone - i didn't see you take it". Got it home, plugged it in, fired straight up. It's now my bottled beer fridge which leaves my "do everything" fridge free for conditioning and cold storage of kegs etc...

Not sure about using an esky. If it was me, i'd just go buy or find a fridge, either working or not. I would say that a fridge that does the job for your fermenting is the single best thing you could do for your beers. Many (including myself) agree that temperature control is the single greatest improvement some one can do for their brewery (not including sanitation of course).

I've made some beers that should have been the ducks nuts but were ruined by lack of temp control. I've also done some beers that should on all accounts turned out quite average, but came up a treat with good control...

Bit of an outlay, but WELL AND TRULY worth it. It doesn't have to be a big fridge...
 
I do not have a fridge to put it in so I have ice blocks on the lid and a towel over it, as advised in Frequently Asked Questions For The New Brewer. I have just done this. Inititial S.G is 1060.

1kg Coopers light DME
500g Coopers BE1
10g Bsaaz full boil
10g Bsaaz 10 min
5g Bsaaz end boil
Nottingham yeast

Have not added yeast yet. The last hops I steeped in boiled water and chucked them in the fermenter (was this a mistake?)

and I know its Light Dried Malt Extract but I had a taste and I was'nt expecting it to be a Malteser but there is'nt much flavour there.. would crystal grain give it a little maltiness? I still want it to be light just a little more malt.

Unfortunatley there is no room for even a small fridge.. (I think there is but others say no :angry: )
I am looking for the 100 can cooler described in Frequently Asked Questions..
Theoretically speaking if I bought a 100 can cooler and another bigger can cooler and put them inside each other (like a babushka doll) this would help keep the temp stable right, and wouldnt have to change the ice blocks so often??
 
1A. Lite American Lager​
Aroma:​
Little to no malt aroma, although it can be grainy, sweet or corn-like if present. Hop aroma may range from none to a light, spicy or floral hop presence. Low levels of yeast character (green apples, DMS, or fruitiness) are optional but acceptable. No diacetyl.

Appearance:​
Very pale straw to pale yellow color. White, frothy head seldom persists. Very clear.

Flavor:​
Crisp and dry flavor with some low levels of grainy or corn-like sweetness. Hop flavor ranges from none to low levels. Hop bitterness at low level. Balance may vary from slightly malty to slightly bitter, but is relatively close to even. High levels of carbonation may provide a slight acidity or dry "sting." No diacetyl. No fruitiness.

Mouthfeel:​
Very light body from use of a high percentage of adjuncts such as rice or corn. Very highly carbonated with slight carbonic bite on the tongue. May seem watery.

Overall Impression:​
Very refreshing and thirst quenching.

Comments:​
A lower gravity and lower calorie beer than standard international lagers. Strong flavors are a fault. Designed to appeal to the broadest range of the general public as possible.

Ingredients:​
Two- or six-row barley with high percentage (up to 40%) of rice or corn as adjuncts.

Vital Statistics:​
OG: 1.028 1.040

IBUs: 8 12 FG: 0.998 1.008​
SRM: 2 3 ABV: 2.8 4.2%​
Commercial Examples: Bitburger Light, Sam Adams Light, Heineken Premium Light, Miller Lite, Bud Light, Corona Extra, Coors Light, Baltika #1 Light, Old Milwaukee Light, Amstel Light

Fruity? No
Hoppy? No
Good? No
Should you homebrew it? No

So if anything brew with a high amount of corn syrup and isomerised hop extract.
YUM!

 
I already did this recipe, last night.. the S.G 1060 (isnt that high for a beer).. it was an experiment. I also added the yeast last night when it finally cooled down.

This morning its still as..(no movement in the air lock at all) I have checked that it is air tight. Why no activity is Nottingham slow to start?
 
I already did this recipe, last night.. the S.G 1060 (isnt that high for a beer).. it was an experiment. I also added the yeast last night when it finally cooled down.

This morning its still as..(no movement in the air lock at all) I have checked that it is air tight. Why no activity is Nottingham slow to start?


Hi Chookers,

just 'cause the airlock's not moving doesn't mean there's no activity going on. Airlocks are fair dinkum useless as far as a reliable measure of progress. Now, i'm not saying that your wrong in your assumption that it hasn't started, but give it another day and make sure you keep an eye on hydro readings. That will tell you if it's started or not.

Airlock activity (or lack of) is probably the most overrated part of home brewing. So much so that a lot of brewers don't even use one (myself included).

You can always throw the lid away, use some glad wrap over the fermenter and hold it in place with the rubber seal from inside the fermenter lid. Works a treat and you get a very clear window to look through to see you progress. Plus is you ferment two at a time in a small fridge, you can stack them on top of each other..

Cheers mate,

hope it turns out well for ya.

Nath
 
Ok the airlock has just start bubbling but very slowly, so you right about that being a dodgy way of telling fermentation has started, although it is kind of reassuring when its going.

Anyway

was it a mistake to put the last 5g of hops in the fermenter.

I got a whiff of it off the airlock and all I can smell is Bsaaz.. Have I made a disaster.
 
No disaster, during fermentation CO2 production will 'scrub' some of your hop aroma away. This is one of the reasons some people dry hop once fermentation has slowed down or ceased. When I smell an airlock doing that I think "Oh no, all that lovely hop aroma being wasted". Having said that I havn't dry hopped in this fashion.

On air lock activity, now that I use clingwrap I can see the signs of fermentation through the plastic much better. Much more interesting than listening to the blup-blup. I can also tell that CO2 is being produced because the cling wrap exapnds up into a dome shape, once fermentation slows the clingwrap becomes flat again.
 
No disaster, during fermentation CO2 production will 'scrub' some of your hop aroma away. This is one of the reasons some people dry hop once fermentation has slowed down or ceased. When I smell an airlock doing that I think "Oh no, all that lovely hop aroma being wasted". Having said that I havn't dry hopped in this fashion.

On air lock activity, now that I use clingwrap I can see the signs of fermentation through the plastic much better. Much more interesting than listening to the blup-blup. I can also tell that CO2 is being produced because the cling wrap exapnds up into a dome shape, once fermentation slows the clingwrap becomes flat again.


so its airtight?

does the CO2 get reabsorbed by the beer? or does it escape?

I like the sound of the cling film but I havent used it because I was affraid something might get in to it and spoil my beer..

also my temp seems to be sitting on 26 deg stable. should I put another ice block against the side of the fermenter, or is 26 okay?
 
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