Nizmoose
Well-Known Member
Here's the sheet with all my numbers. Ended up with a mash efficiency of 85.96% which is my best effort so far I think.
Base Porter recipe to build on
- Thread starter Nizmoose
- Start date
Help Support Australia & New Zealand Homebrewing Forum:
Chris7
Well-Known Member
Ah good stuff, mate. Look forward to hearing how the end result tastes. Also congrats on the efficiency, that's awesome.
Still waiting on my PID etc. before I can get my brew on, has been in Sydney for a week now. Guessing it's just held up in customs.
Still waiting on my PID etc. before I can get my brew on, has been in Sydney for a week now. Guessing it's just held up in customs.
technobabble66
Meat Popsicle
Old school pen and paper. Respect!
Congrats on almost busting 86% eff.
Let us know how the tastings go.
Ps: don't drill a hole in the lid. Toss the lid and use gladwrap. Much, much easier. I, too, was a lid-wielding skeptic once.
Congrats on almost busting 86% eff.
Let us know how the tastings go.
Ps: don't drill a hole in the lid. Toss the lid and use gladwrap. Much, much easier. I, too, was a lid-wielding skeptic once.
technobabble66
Meat Popsicle
Just saw your earlier post. Recipe looks like it'll be a rip snorter. Particularly after a few months in the bottle.
I can see what you mean with the lid now.
If you've kept it, just don't have the lid pushed down tight. I think I have the same bucket as a mash tun and the lid sits on well without needing to push it down - co2 will easily escape. If it was on tight/hard it'd maybe be airtight and that would become bad in the next 24hrs.
So if you keep the lid, drill a hole and lightly lay a piece of duct tape over it. Otherwise put a piece of gladwrap over it and hold it on with a couple of rubber bands.
If you've got cats, dogs or kids, maybe keep the lid for now. You definitely don't want any kittens in your fermenter. :lol:
I can see what you mean with the lid now.
If you've kept it, just don't have the lid pushed down tight. I think I have the same bucket as a mash tun and the lid sits on well without needing to push it down - co2 will easily escape. If it was on tight/hard it'd maybe be airtight and that would become bad in the next 24hrs.
So if you keep the lid, drill a hole and lightly lay a piece of duct tape over it. Otherwise put a piece of gladwrap over it and hold it on with a couple of rubber bands.
If you've got cats, dogs or kids, maybe keep the lid for now. You definitely don't want any kittens in your fermenter. :lol:
Nizmoose
Well-Known Member
Annoying, hopefully it turns up soon!Chris7 said:
Yeah I drilled a hole and chucked a spare airlock in, haven't used an airlock since my first brew and the entertainment factor hasn't died, no kids or pets to worry about either, 21 and still at home so my room has just turned into a fermentation chamber. It's been going pretty nuts since early this morning which is good now the waiting gametechnobabble66 said:
Samuel Adams
Well-Known Member
21 and you're brewing a porter, well done mate !Nizmoose said:
I was chugging down Corona's & Jim Beam & cola's at that age.
Recipe looks good too, I'm researching porters and have come up with a recipe pretty close to that.
Let us know how it turns out !
Nizmoose
Well-Known Member
Haha cheers, I've been lucky enough to discover good beer fairly early which is nice, trying to convert the mates is a tough gig but I'm slowly weaning them onto galaxy bombs and Amarillo pale ales haha. I will definitely post back here with some tasting notes once it's all said and done!Samuel Adams said:
Nizmoose
Well-Known Member
Hi Reman I am yet to try it yet as it's only two weeks in the bottle so far but there is one in the fridge I might have a try of tonight and I'll let you know!Reman said:
Nizmoose
Well-Known Member
Okay I'm drinking this as I type. Firstly here's a picture, I did pour a bit too vigorously but it does look good.Reman said:
Now I'll start by saying I'm young and naturally not used to dark beers but this is really tasting fantastic just 2 weeks old! Aroma: there's a bit of chocolate and I can't pick up much hop but this is my first beer with fuggles and EKG so I might just be missing it either way it's a nice smelling beer. Taste: perfect for what I'm aiming for which is a base porter to build on and try different things with, it tastes like the perfect porter base clean slate for any other flavour you want to add, I'll be trying chilli, chocolate and coffee additions to future batches and I think this lends itself to any of those. It's malty, slightly roasty but definitely not heavy on the roast and easy drinking for sure, no real back end bitterness but I'm thankful for that in a porter. I wouldn't say it's sweet I'd say well balanced but Malt forward. I don't think I'd add any more roast to it but I'm not a fan of stout like roast so others may like more. I definitely want more chocolatey coffee ish flavours which I plan on getting from cacao and real coffee additions in the fermenter. Like I said I'm not a fan of dark beers almost by default due to my age and palate but this is one of the best beers I think I've made. Carbonation is bang on, aimed for 1.7 vols I think and seemed to get in the ballpark. Can't wait to taste it at 1 month in the bottle.
Using your recipe as a base this is what I brewed over the weekend, I think it's pretty close to your base recipe so I'm hoping it turns out similarly.
Style: Brown Porter (12A)
Boil Size: 14.98 l Style Guide: BJCP 2008
Color: 54.4 EBC Equipment: Pot 15l - BIAB to 10l
Bitterness: 30.0 IBUs Boil Time: 60 min
Est OG: 1.055 (13.5° P) Mash Profile: BIAB, Medium Body
Est FG: 1.015 SG (3.8° P) Fermentation: Ale, Single Stage
ABV: 5.3%
Amount Name Type #
2.32 kg Voyager Pale Malt (4.5 EBC) Grain 1
278.5 g Voyager Brown Malt (180.0 EBC) Grain 2
183.8 g Voyager Chocolate Malt (900.0 EBC) Grain 3
29.3 g Fuggles [4.5%] - Boil 60 min Hops 4
11.7 g Goldings, East Kent [5.0%] - Boil 15 min Hops 5
1 pkgs SafAle English Ale (DCL/Fermentis #S-04) Yeast 6
I ended up at an SG of 1.058, so I may need to up my efficiency in Beersmith.
I also took the chance to use the Australian grown Voyager malts and I also cold steeped the Brown and Chocolate malts before adding for the last 10 minutes before mash out. Mashed around 68 which I though might help for a nice chewy porter.
I'll update with how it goes, currently in the fermenter at about 17 (learning from my attempt at an ESB that was undrinkable after fermenting at 24)
Style: Brown Porter (12A)
Boil Size: 14.98 l Style Guide: BJCP 2008
Color: 54.4 EBC Equipment: Pot 15l - BIAB to 10l
Bitterness: 30.0 IBUs Boil Time: 60 min
Est OG: 1.055 (13.5° P) Mash Profile: BIAB, Medium Body
Est FG: 1.015 SG (3.8° P) Fermentation: Ale, Single Stage
ABV: 5.3%
Amount Name Type #
2.32 kg Voyager Pale Malt (4.5 EBC) Grain 1
278.5 g Voyager Brown Malt (180.0 EBC) Grain 2
183.8 g Voyager Chocolate Malt (900.0 EBC) Grain 3
29.3 g Fuggles [4.5%] - Boil 60 min Hops 4
11.7 g Goldings, East Kent [5.0%] - Boil 15 min Hops 5
1 pkgs SafAle English Ale (DCL/Fermentis #S-04) Yeast 6
I ended up at an SG of 1.058, so I may need to up my efficiency in Beersmith.
I also took the chance to use the Australian grown Voyager malts and I also cold steeped the Brown and Chocolate malts before adding for the last 10 minutes before mash out. Mashed around 68 which I though might help for a nice chewy porter.
I'll update with how it goes, currently in the fermenter at about 17 (learning from my attempt at an ESB that was undrinkable after fermenting at 24)
Nizmoose
Well-Known Member
Definitely let us know how it goes! The cold steep was a great idea, I wanted to cold steep my chocolate and brown Malt but it came milled and mixed. I think the cold steep will do a good job of bringing out that chocolate!Reman said:
seamad
beer dog
Brown malt I thought required mashing, as you added it for last 10 minutes then some conversion would have occurred, but hardly enough I'd think. Interested to see how it turns out.
Nizmoose
Well-Known Member
I do believe that brown Malt is a specialty Malt and thus requires only a steep and not mash, if it required a mash then the cold steep would be fairly pointless but I do believe it falls with chocolate Malt under roasted Maltseamad said:
EDIT: I'm happy to be proven wrong as I am far from an expert btw
EDIT: Nope Nope I am wrong, Brown malt should be mashed! There you go learn something new everyday, so Reman I'd recommend throwing the choc for a cold steep but the brown malt in the mash as seamad has pointed out
Nizmoose
Well-Known Member
seamad
beer dog
I'd split that roast section into 2, the first being "kilned malts ", amber,biscuit and brown included which I would mash, and then the roast section choc, black,carafa etc that I would steep ( either hot or cold depending on the profile I'm after )Nizmoose said:
Nizmoose
Well-Known Member
Yep That'd definitely be a more helpful split if showing mashing vs steepingseamad said:
I've also been doing a bit of reading and it does get a little confusing.
1st thing is that brown malt is usually around 70L, the Voyager Brown I used is around 180L - this is important due to what comes next.
Munich, Vienna and typical Brown Malts are kilned versions of the base malts we all know and love and need to be mashed. Chocolate and Black Patent are roasted and can be mashed or steeped.
What's the difference between making kilned and roasted malts? Doesn't seem to be much, roasted is just a very highly-kilned base malt. Take a kilned malt and leave it in the oven, and voila, you get a roasted malt.
So my conclusion is that if you can steep 400L chocolate and need to mash 8L Munich as you move from 8L to 400L the more you get out of steeping. Which means that while I probably should have mashed a 200L Brown malt to get 100% out of it, I still got a fair bit out of it by steeping and a 10 minute mash.
All that being said, next time I'll mash it!
References
http://www.barleyman.com.au/products/malts-grains/voyager-schooner-brown-malt.html
http://hbd.org/brewery/library/Malt_AK0996.html
http://www.howtobrew.com/section2/chapter12-1.html
1st thing is that brown malt is usually around 70L, the Voyager Brown I used is around 180L - this is important due to what comes next.
Munich, Vienna and typical Brown Malts are kilned versions of the base malts we all know and love and need to be mashed. Chocolate and Black Patent are roasted and can be mashed or steeped.
What's the difference between making kilned and roasted malts? Doesn't seem to be much, roasted is just a very highly-kilned base malt. Take a kilned malt and leave it in the oven, and voila, you get a roasted malt.
So my conclusion is that if you can steep 400L chocolate and need to mash 8L Munich as you move from 8L to 400L the more you get out of steeping. Which means that while I probably should have mashed a 200L Brown malt to get 100% out of it, I still got a fair bit out of it by steeping and a 10 minute mash.
All that being said, next time I'll mash it!
References
http://www.barleyman.com.au/products/malts-grains/voyager-schooner-brown-malt.html
http://hbd.org/brewery/library/Malt_AK0996.html
http://www.howtobrew.com/section2/chapter12-1.html
Nizmoose
Well-Known Member
I do see where youre going with that bu I think the actual thing is that stteping extracts sugars, whilst mashing turns starch to sugar as we all know. Now crystal is kilned at a temp where the starch is converted to sugar (to my understanding) so that the sugars simply need be extracted in water, the same applies for choc malt. Brown malt it seems has not had its starches converted and therefore needs a mash OR the kilning process has destroyed the enzymes/starch/sugar and therefore means you are simply extracting the roast character from the grain. I dont actually know which is the case and dont want to mislead but the mash/steep situation depends on whether you're converting starches or extracting sugars. And im not sure which if any brown malt contains,Reman said:
