Barb Difficulties

[ballzac]

Seems like this topic would have been brought up before, but I did a search and couldn't find anything.

I just bought a 4 way manifold from grain and grape: http://www.grainandgrape.com.au/product_in...roducts_id=7224

I'm trying to set it up, but I can't get the gas line over the barbs. The gas in barb is larger than the barb on my Micromatic regulator, and the four gas out barbs are even larger still. I made the erroneous assumption that all barbs for gas would be the same size and, silly me, I also assumed that all barbs on the one device would be the same size. I was planning on using my 5mm ID Flexmaster II tubing for most of it, but don't quite have enough for all of it, so am using the small length of 6mm ID BEVA I have for the gas in.

The BEVA line doesn't even fit over the very tip of the gas in barb, but JUST fits over the tip of the gas out barbs. I spent about an hour trying to squeeze the BEVA over the gas in barb. I heat the plastic up in boiling water, but by the time I'm managing to get it over the tip of the barb, it has cooled and I can't push it any further. I eventually got it over the first one-and-a-half barbs, and although I wasn't happy about it, I decided that if my hose-clamp was on tight enough it would be okay.

I hooked it up to my gas and, with all the valves on the manifold off, turned the gas on. I could hear a leak, so I turned off the gas and took off the hose-clamp and discovered that the hose had split, presumably from being stretched beyond what it should be.

I gave up on that side of things for the time being, and decided to get some line on the gas out barbs. I discovered that I had a bit more BEVA left over, so decided to use that on one of the gas outs. I spent about half an hour squeezing it on and managed to get it about half way. I don't think it's too stressed like the other one was, and I will try to get it all the way on. The flexmaster, however, I don't see any hope in getting on. The ID is smaller than the BEVA, and it's much harder plastic.

Does anyone have any suggestions or advice? Do I need an adaptor to go from the large barbs to smaller ones? I already thought I was splashing out by getting the manifold in the first place. If I have to spend more on bits and pieces to end up with something usable, I'd rather just take it back and get JG T-pieces.

It's a bit of a PITA for me to get to G&G, so I'd rather manage with what I've got if possible, but I don't see how I can, especially with the gas in barb, and the flexmaster on the gas out barbs.

Thanks in advance

EDIT: Also, are these manifold supposed to squeal? I hope it doesn't do that when everything is hooked up, otherwise I'll definitely be taking it back.

 

[cdbrown]

Can you measure the OD off the barbed fittings for us? I remember spending ages getting the tubing onto the barbs, had a pot boiling on the stove and would put both the barb and tubing in there so they were both very hot, making sure to hold them in there for about 30sec. A tip is to use needle nose pliers (also heated) to stretch the tubing before trying to put it on the barb.

 

[Paul H]

I would save your knuckles & order some John Guest fittings from a sponsor (whom I know happens to stock the fittings but is currently closed for stock take).

 

[ballzac]

Can you measure the OD off the barbed fittings for us? I remember spending ages getting the tubing onto the barbs, had a pot boiling on the stove and would put both the barb and tubing in there so they were both very hot, making sure to hold them in there for about 30sec. A tip is to use needle nose pliers (also heated) to stretch the tubing before trying to put it on the barb.

I don't have calipers, but doing my best with a ruler I get 9mm from repeated measurements. Interestingly, both in and out are the same maximum OD. It's just the very tip that is a different size, with the gas in being about 8mm, and the gas outs being about 6.5mm.

I would save your knuckles & order some John Guest fittings from a sponsor (whom I know happens to stock the fittings but is currently closed for stock take).

Yeah, my knuckles are bleeding and a little swollen

Considering that I would need to take the manifold back, I might as well just get the JG fittings from G&G (also a sponsor).

 

[ballzac]

A tip is to use needle nose pliers (also heated) to stretch the tubing before trying to put it on the barb.

Thanks for this tip. I've made more progress in the last ten minutes with this technique than I had all day.

An annoying property of this tubing (both of them) is that if you manage to stretch the opening, it shrinks back to it's original diameter when you heat it up again.

 

[Fourstar]

for all of my barb fittings i pop teh kettle on and when it begins boiling i put the tip (2 inches) of line in the boiling water for 15-20 seconds adn then quickly begin squeezing it over the barb. Works like a charm.

 

[brettprevans]

ahh grasshopper you need to read the chestfreezer or fridge conversion wiki/articles as thye have all these wonderful tips like hot water making beer/gas line very pliable. some of us have been there, stuffed it up, rung Ross/consulted ahb, then written about it. anthing to save the knuckles!

 

[ballzac]

The hot water thing is a mixed blessing though, as it makes the tubing fold more easily as you're pushing it on. I have read about all this stuff, but seriously, it was difficult enough getting the line to go on the barb on the regulator, so I figured I must have the wrong size on the manifold.

Fourstar, you make it sound so easy. If you're talking about a barb the size of what's on my regulator, then fine. But if you can just heat it up and squeeze it over a barb the size of what's on this manifold, then you got serious skillz. To get it on easily, the ID needs to be slightly larger than the tip of the barb, unless there is a knack to it somehow. With the tip of the barb being roughly 8mm, and the ID of the line being 5mm, it's a bloody nightmare.

But like I said before, the pliars trick has helped no end. I can now easily squeeze open the end enough to get it over the first barb and a half. I reckon it has enough purchase there, that with the hose clamp on tight there is absolutely no chance of it coming off. In fact, I wanted to take it off and reheat to get it on further, but couldn't get it off and ended up stretching it. I ended up cutting that one off.

 

[Mayor of Mildura]

A bit of lube works like a charm as well

 

[ballzac]

What sort of lube? I just got a tube of keg lube from craftbrewer, and it's actually quite sticky. Obviously does the job it's made for, but I can't really see it being that useful as a lubricant.

 

[Mayor of Mildura]

What sort of lube? I just got a tube of keg lube from craftbrewer, and it's actually quite sticky. Obviously does the job it's made for, but I can't really see it being that useful as a lubricant.

mine came from bunnings (near the thread tape). I know people who have used KY.

I had all sorts of drama's with getting the hose onto the tails on the back of my shanks. What I ended up doing that worked (after the bloodied knuckles and swearing) was to heat up the hose and the barb, put a little lube on the barb, stretch the hose with pliers then push it on. wasn't much fun.

Next time... john guest fittings here I come.

 

[zabond]

Or you could remove the barbs[they just screw out] and go to any ind air equipment supplier and get barbs to suit your hose size bout $3 each

 

[ballzac]

I pretty much got it sorted now. They're not on far, but they hold very strongly, so I'm happy. I think in future I will avoid barbs at all cost. They are really archaic technology. They belong in the scrapheap along with flathead screws. Anyway, thanks for all the help guys.