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newguy

To err is human, to arrr is pirate
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About a month ago I posted about my (then pending) trip to Europe. I survived. Barely.

Thursday September 23, 4:00am, Edmonton. Alarm woke us up as we had an 8am flight to Minneapolis and we wanted to be early because US customs in our airport is known to be slow. We arrived in Minneapolis just before noon so we decided to have a bite to eat and a beer:

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Sam Adams Oktoberfest, actually. Nothing to write home about. Way too hoppy to be an authentic facsimile of the real thing.

Had more time to kill before our flight to Amsterdam, so stopped by Rock Bottom for a couple:

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We had a pint of the Bighorn Nut Brown Ale and the Singletrack Copper Ale. Both were pretty good, but not the best I've ever had.
 
Friday, ~11:30am, Munich. Couldn't check in to our hotel just yet (room wasn't ready) so we dropped off our bags and headed right to the Theresienwiese (park where Oktoberfest is held) and had a look around. Even at this hour every hall was full and almost every beer garden too. Luckily the Hofbrauhaus' garden wasn't full so we took advantage of the great weather (~23C and sunny) and great atmosphere.

Me enjoying a fantastic mas (measure) of beer:
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The menu:
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And several shots of the inside of the beer hall:

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There are hops everywhere in Germany, particularly in beer halls and restaurants. You can see lots of them here.

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I bought a Sony NEX-5 just for the trip and it has a fantastic sweep panorama feature. However, it doesn't work that well when lots of people are moving around. Still, it helps to give you a sense of scale.

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Our hotel was right across the street from the hauptbaunhof (central train station) and literally within crawling distance of Oktoberfest. Although this seemed like a good idea, the noise from the street was understandably very high. This broken office chair brought a lot of enjoyment to many drunks while we were in Munich.

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Saturday, Munich. After going to Schloss Nymphenberg (summer getaway palace for the Bavarian royals, all of about 10km from their official residence) in the morning, we explored the altstadt (old town) a bit. For the scotch lovers among us, I found the place for you:

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The leather case in the middle had several golden goblets, plenty of scotch, and all in a convenient carrying case. All for only $1100 euros. What a bargain. :rolleyes:

My cousin lives just south of Munich and she and her husband took us to supper at Zum Durnbrau, a restaurant in the altstadt that's been in business since 1487!

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The food was great and the place was packed. Can't remember what beer they had - I just remember having a very nice Dunkles.

After supper they showed us around a bit. This is the Bavarian royal family's "normal" palace.

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The only reason I took this picture is that it's the view from the park right across from the palace above where I took a leak. Hey, my cousin-in-law did it too!

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Sunday, ~3pm, Dusseldorf. This was the most fun I had on my trip. Dusseldorf, for some strange reason, reminded me of Saskatoon (which is almost my home town - close enough anyway). This was the view from the front step of our hotel, where just up the street the Bierbrauerei Ferd. Schumacher is located.

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In general, all the Dusseldorf Alts are attention grabbers. Imagine your wife seductively reaching down and grabbing you -there- and you're thinking 'this will be fun' then she gives your balls a good squeeze; not enough to hurt, but definitely to get your full attention. That's what Dusseldorf Alt is like. A seductively perfumelike low hoppy aroma - you think 'this is going to be good' then when you take a sip, the assertive hop flavour and bitterness get your full attention - and respect. None of the Alts I tried had any resemblence of sweetness at all - very, very dry - with an aggressive hop profile. What blew me away was how different they all were. One was roasty, one was chocolatey, another was across-the-board subdued, still another peaty (really, peaty!).

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My wife doing her best to feign interest:

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Our waiter, sporting the standard long blue apron, and dispensing beer from a real oak barrel:

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A better view of the front of the brewery from under the awning.

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Check out the detail in the side door to the place. No mistaking what kind of business this door belongs to!

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From here we wandered into the altstadt and stumbled upon Zum Schiffchen first.

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This was a lovely place and we sat down to eat before the supper rush, all the while enjoying a heavenly glass (or 5) of Frankenheim Alt.

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I believe I was trying to think of a way to swim in a vat of this stuff...

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We had the best meal of our lives here. Since we were unsure of exactly how to put our thoughts into German, we asked our waiter if he spoke English. He did not. Our one regret of the trip was that we couldn't tell the staff or chef how good the meal was. Then on our way out, we found out why the food was so good:

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Two Michelin stars. That explains it.
 
From there it was only a block to our next conquest, Uerige. This is the outdoor portion of the brewery, located just across the street from the brewery itself.

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From there we wandered down the street to find the next Alt brewery and we happened upon this oddity. Keep this -customerless- photo in mind in case someone tries to get you to invest in an Irish pub in Germany. Every Irish or English pub we passed on our trip was empty.

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My next target, Zum Schlussel (the key).

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The locals were great but the sight of a tall idiot tourist taking pictures of beer was a bit amusing to them.

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The next place we stopped at for a beer - even though we had already sampled the Schumacher Alt, I still wanted to stop.

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I honestly could not have been more happy at this point.

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And our final Alt brewery of the day, Brauerei Im Fuchschen (the small fox). Notice the young parents enjoying a beer with their toddler and baby. Stuff like that just doesn't happen here (and that's a shame).

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This was the Alt that had a peatiness to it, and it was damn good.

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Jealous yet? ;)

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This was a really cool poster above the window. Rough translation is as follows:

Stop! Consumption Control Zone!
Know what to drink? No? May we suggest the Fuchschen on Ratinger Street.
Drivers, please be careful as too many small cheers may lead to a small cell!

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On the way back to the hotel we passed by a little hole-in-the-wall beer shop and these 3 came out to $3.50 euro. If I could find them here, I guarantee they'd be at least $9 each.

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I also tied into this Doppelbock that Nicole found for me in Munich:

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Monday, Koln (Cologne), ~10am. This is the view from the front door of our hotel.

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Lunch time, so we stopped at Gaffel.

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This is the interior of the pub/restaurant:

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The tanks were purely decorative.

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Kolsch, in Koln, is nothing like the homebrewed Kolsch I've judged or brewed myself. It's a distant cousin to Dusseldorf Alt in that it's very very dry as with Alt, but it's all around more subdued and lacks the darker malts that give Alt its colour. I was taken by the winey/vinous aroma in all the samples I tried. Homebrewed examples almost always lack this character. As it turns out, this was the last time I felt fine in Europe.

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A young couple sat down next to us in Gaffel and while we were making the effort to speak German, not only did they not bother, but the "gentleman" was stupid enough to ask the waiter what kinds of beer they had. Mistake number one, not trying to speak the native tongue. Mistake number two (and worse), asking what kinds of beer they serve in a place that serves just one. While the waiter couldn't do enough for us, he largely ignored/scorned them. ...And they were from Michigan (we asked). And we weren't really surprised.
 
Later on in the day, after exploring the Dom (the huge cathedral), we stopped at Fruh.

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Right after this was taken I went back to the hotel and laid down. Thus began my food poisoning ordeal. Delta airlines fed me chicken on the flight to Amsterdam and it damn near killed me. More on this later. About supper time my wife hauled me out of bed to see the Roman ruins just down the street from our hotel. On the way back we stopped at Sion, since it was just across the street from where we were staying. I didn't feel like drinking but I felt I had to.

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I was starting to look a bit green/pale here. It was raining and I wore a cap. That's the door beside me. I was taught/raised to take my cap off in a building and I did when we sat down here. There was a group of older men just kitty-corner across from us and when they got up to leave, they made a point to say goodbye to us. I have a hunch it's because I removed my cap. The Germans are very polite and value politeness in others.

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Just before we left they winched a fresh keg up from the basement.

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This was Monday evening and the beginning of my "squirting across Europe" adventure. That night I hardly slept between getting up every 30 minutes to take a dump and the fever-induced hallucinations I was having when I was able to get to sleep.
 
Tuesday, Brussels.

In the morning we took a train to Brussels and I surprised myself by making it almost the whole way there without having to go. When we arrived we dropped our bags at the hotel (room wasn't ready yet) and I beelined it to a pharmacy next door. I managed to convey to the French-speaking proprietor that I had squirt-ass and he gave me some pills for nausea. Which did nothing to help, by the way.

From there we wandered around and noted, with curiosity, razor wire barricades everywhere. We thought them odd but didn't think too much of them. Anyway, at this point my pledge to eat only what the locals eat was shot right to hell and we stopped by a McDonald's. I wasn't hungry but I knew that I had to choke something - anything - down, and I knew what rotten ronnie's food was like. I didn't manage to choke everything down without having to go again. The attendant (virually all washrooms in Europe have an attendant) ushered me into the women's side. I wasn't about to argue - this was urgent! On the way back to the hotel we stopped for an authentic Belgian waffle from some hole-in-the wall vendor. If you've never had one, you have no idea what you're missing. Go out of your way to find one if you're in Belgium.

We got back to the hotel where I stayed. Nicole explored Brussels all by herself. I was too sick/scared to be more than 3m from a toilet.

Tuesday night I literally soaked the bed and covers with sweat - no lie, I could wring them out. During the night I also started passing blood and I decided that in the morning I had to be hospitalized. I've had food poisoning before, but not like this. In the morning Nicole went down for breakfast and she asked the front desk attendant how to say food poisoning in French. Empoisonement if you're curious. He gave us a map with the location of the nearest hospital, only about 15-20 minutes by foot. We set off about 8:30am and I managed to make it there without having to go. I still don't know how, but I wasn't about to look a gift horse in the mouth.

We went through the nearest door and there happened to be an information desk right there. The lady behind the desk spoke a little English, but she waved down a different lady who spoke much more English than she did. She escorted us to the emergency admission desk and explained to them, in French, what was wrong with me. They took us in no more than 20 minutes later and a parade of doctors and nurses (every one of them female - I've never seen so many women doctors in my life) examined me and got my story. Tiny bits at a time, mind you, because not many of them speak English and I don't speak French so this experience was interesting.

5 hours later and an English speaking intern (perfect English) and another doctor (French only) give me the verdict. It's an extremely severe case of gastroenteritis (blanket term for food poisoning as they didn't know the bacteria responsible just yet), and it's migrated to my bloodstream already. They were surprised I was still able to walk. If we weren't going to be traveling to Amsterdam the following day, they wouldn't have let me go. They prescribed horsepill antibiotics and another pill to relieve squirtass and sent me on my way.

Now it's time to pay. Nicole and I are counting our cash and if it's less than 300 euros we'll pay cash, and if it's more I'll put it on my mastercard. The total? $24.01 euros. Expensive. :rolleyes:

So we exit the hospital. This is a totally different side than the one we entered and we're a bit lost, so we just started walking counterclockwise around the hospital, looking for a landmark we recognise. As we're walking we're hearing drums, whistles, horns, and firecrackers. And they're getting louder. Then we round a corner and we're in the midst of all these orange jacket wearing assholes carrying plackards and hollering, blowing whistles and horns, beating drums, and throwing firecrackers. We can't get away from them - they're on the same street we need to take back to our hotel. Then the razor wire made sense. Now accompanied by riot police. And those really cool water cannon armoured tanks.

About a block after joining these people, there's a pharmacy and luckily for us the demonstrators crossed over to the other side of the boulevard just before that. Even more lucky for me, the pharmacist spoke perfect English. Another $33-something euros for the meds and we were off.

We made it back to our street and it's naturally blocked off by razor wire and riot police shoulder-to-shoulder and two deep. Across the street the jackasses with the horns and whistles are now tossing ******* mortars, not firecrackers, and the police are a bit on edge. Our hotel was just the second building in from the corner but we couldn't get to it. So we pulled out our passports and in our best (worst?) French managed to convey to them that 1) we were harmless and 2) we just wanted to get to our hotel. So they let us pass. We found out from the news that night that Brussels had 100,000 protesters from across Europe who were demonstrating their displeasure at government cutbacks.

Thursday we caught our final train to Amsterdam and even though I wasn't 100%, I still managed to enjoy our short time there. Friday we flew back.

A short trip, but the good parts, prior to getting sick greatly outweighed the crappy parts (sitting on a Belgian throne for 2 days straight). Germany was the most fun I've ever had and the locals were the best. If you make an effort to speak German, they'll bend over backwards for you. The beer was the best I've ever had, and if given the chance I'll definitely go again. Oktoberfest was an experience, but it's definitely meant for younger people. Not that 40 year olds aren't welcome, but I just don't have the energy of a 25 year old anymore.

Sorry for the long post. Hope you enjoyed reading about my misadventures! :beer:
 
Imagine your wife seductively reaching down and grabbing you -there- and you're thinking 'this will be fun' then she gives your balls a good squeeze; not enough to hurt, but definitely to get your full attention. That's what Dusseldorf Alt is like. A seductively perfumelike low hoppy aroma - you think 'this is going to be good' then when you take a sip, the assertive hop flavour and bitterness get your full attention - and respect.

Blimey ... that's one of the best descriptions of a beer i've ever read! :lol:

And, Michelin Fuhrer ... were they Hitler's choice of tyres?

Great write up, and i haven't even read it all yet.
 
Blimey ... that's one of the best descriptions of a beer i've ever read! :lol:

And, Michelin Fuhrer ... were they Hitler's choice of tyres?

Great write up, and i haven't even read it all yet.

Damn I was gonna make that joke :angry: but damn sounds like fun except for the gastro, might see if I can get placed there on exchange when I goto Uni :ph34r:
 
great write up...I've been to Germany a couple of times but not had the pleasure of doing Koln or Dusseldorf. I'm convinced now I must go back and do the Alt and Kolsch tasting...

hopefully that brown run has disappeared and things have 'firmed' up... :eek:
 
Their Piazza's are awesome, oh I wish our urban planners realized these countries had it right years ago....
 
Thanks for a great read. You're right - if you just learn 'yes', 'no', 'please' and 'thank you' when you visit a new country, you'll receive a much warmer welcome.

Brussels was also the scene for my worst ever case of food poisoning. Brussels is famous for mussels, so I enjoyed them several times. In hindsight, eating filter feeders from Europe's most densely populated coast was probably an error in judgement.
 
Eerrrrr!............................................................Wow!

Thats all I have! :super:

Screwy
 
What a great read, sorry to hear about you tummy bug newguy. My favourite line has to be " I didn't feel like drinking but felt I had to" :lol:
 
great pics the frueh joint accross the dom is a good place had a few myself last year
 
bravo! good on you for doing a great job of having an awesome time :)
I wish I was as beer educated when I went there. hehe. Great job blending in and being a bit local. You make me an insanely jealous fool ATM (except the food poisoning :p)

simple awesome
 
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