Auber - Digital SSR Power Regulator for Wort Boiling Control (DSPR1)

[DigitalGiraffe]

Hey guys,

So I'm finally at the point where I need to make a call on an element for my system (Brew area in garage is taking shape and its time for electrician quotes). I have the 2200w KK and it just does the job, the boil gets very slow after a while. I'm thinking about the 5* 2400w as it would probably give me the kick that I need or my other option is going 15A circuit and running the 5* 3600w. I am kind of leaning to this but I know it will be too much power so I was thinking about running it through one of these guys. Is there anywhere in Australia that offers a similar product? Does anyone here use one? I have seen a lot of similar units with a temp prob attached but I don't really need this feature.

 

[SBOB]

( personally)if you're going to the expense of getting a 15a circuit put in, I think getting a PID, SSR and temp probe hooked up properly will give you a better solution.. Will make your mashing process more controllable and give you power % control during 100%/boil stages

using the Inkbird brand as an example, their PID controller is like ~$30. Its like $50 for a kit with all that and a heatsink on ebay from a quick search.

 

[DigitalGiraffe]

I was trying to avoid having to put another "thing" in my keggle. I figured that my mash temp is what it is and I can't really change it with a bag sitting on an element(Probably should have mentioned that I am doing BIAB).

Can the Inkbird PID be run without the probe and only use it to adjust power?

 

[Camo6]

The basic Auber pid they sell for homebrewers (without ramp/soak option), has the ability to control the output to the element when in manual mode. Can't recall the product code atm (2352?). This would give you the ability to upgrade to recirc down the track or just measure mash temp while still being able to control the boil.

 

[Camo6]

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=3

 

[sp0rk]

An SSR (plus heatsink) and a 500K pot works well as a voltage regulator...

 

[DigitalGiraffe]

The basic Auber pid they sell for homebrewers (without ramp/soak option), has the ability to control the output to the element when in manual mode. Can't recall the product code atm (2352?). This would give you the ability to upgrade to recirc down the track or just measure mash temp while still being able to control the boil.

Cheers, I'll take a look at that one. I'm just trying to keep things as simple as possible.

An SSR (plus heatsink) and a 500K pot works well as a voltage regulator...

I almost grabbed one of the Dragon? kits but the digital option looks pretty good for a similar price.

 

[sp0rk]

I've just built one with eBay parts, cost me $30 all up, using an old PC power supply as the housing

 

[DigitalGiraffe]

( personally)if you're going to the expense of getting a 15a circuit put in, I think getting a PID, SSR and temp probe hooked up properly will give you a better solution.. Will make your mashing process more controllable and give you power % control during 100%/boil stages

using the Inkbird brand as an example, their PID controller is like ~$30. Its like $50 for a kit with all that and a heatsink on ebay from a quick search.

After too much thinking and lots of drawings of how I'd like to progress my basic keggle setup I think I'll be going with your suggestion.

I do have a few questions...

I can set a mash temp and have it recirc past an inline probe which will trigger my element right?

Is there also another mode I can easily switch to for the boil where I have control of the power to the element?

I had a look at the user manual for the ITC-100 and it didn't really give me much info.

 

[brentonsav]

If youre going to go to the expense of getting a 15A dedicated circuit installed, maybe consider just going to 32A. Im planning to install a 32A feed which will allow the use of a 5500w element. Room to upgrade in the future that way.

 

[mabrungard]

I use that Auber DSPR1 unit to control my boil kettle and can report that it is superb. The digital power percentage readout is very helpful in setting and duplicating your boil control. After a few brews, you will find the range of percentage setting that produces the appropriate boil vigor for your system. I typically boil about 22L and have a 5500w element. I have to drop the percentage to about 45% to produce a lightly rolling boil. Operating at 100% will produce a Vesuvius of wort, but having the ability to dial up the power to the full 5500w does bring the kettle to a boil quicker. JUST BE SURE TO WATCH THE KETTLE AND TURN THE POWER DOWN WHEN IT NEARS BOILING! Don't ask how I know.

This unit is very similar to the typical PIDs that we use to control temperature in RIMS and HERMS when they are set to manual pulse control. But I do believe that the DPSR1 unit has a more advanced pulsing method. I don't know that it matters though. I do have regular Auber PIDs controlling my RIMS and HLT, but haven't used them in manual mode.

The DPSR1 unit replaced a manual pulse controller which was working fine, but this is much better.

 

[zeggie]

JUST BE SURE TO WATCH THE KETTLE AND TURN THE POWER DOWN WHEN IT NEARS BOILING! Don't ask how I know.

Ok I'll bite. How do you know?

 

[billygoat]

A cheap arse PID controller in manual mode, via an SSR, will control your boil.
If you don't want a temperature probe hooked up, put a 100 ohm or other value resistor across the temperature probe inputs.
Not sure if all PID controllers are the same, but if they don't read a resistance across the probe input, they won't work in manual.
This is also assuming you have the temperature probe input configured for a PT100.