Alternatives To Gas Boiled Kettles?

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Has Anyone ever butchered a Domestic Kettle (jug) for the element?

My one here says its 2400w. Cut & fit to another vessel, why not? :)

Maybe I can abduct it when nobody is looking? :ph34r:

anyone?
 
Yes a lot of people have done that FHG. Search around on kettle element or jug element and ye shall find...
 
Regarding the Ring Burner suitable with Natural gas.
Yes, BeerSlayer (member) had his burner jets drilled a little larger, and it works well.
He got an old gas fitter from work who knew what he was doing.
Think he says it doesnt burn as hot, as bottle gas but still very efficient.

cheers
 
I need to get my 80lt kettle off the stove, I think I am leaning towards the immersion element. Thanks for the info guys.

how long does it take you to get that to a rolling boil on the stove?
 
I have 4 gas elements on the stove.

With all 4 at max: From cold water to sparge mash temp is about 20 mins (38L). From the mash temp to rolling boil about 20 mins again (30L).
 
Just remembered. As I use the BIAB, do the elements have any temp control?

If not it won't be any use as I won't be able to hold the water to mash temp for an hour, as I do using the stove top.
 
Err, nope. not quite.

Stokes Appliances in Ringwood have 2400watt elements for around $75 retail. 1800watt for around $60 each. I got one of each for just over $100 for the pair. I think I got a "brewer's discount' actually. The ones I got were low density 1-1/2 inch screw in hot water heater elements.

gary.

I guess I was a bit hasty using prices from Grain & Grape as a guide - $130 for a 2400W immersion heater. Good to hear there are better bargains around. I'm still happy with my $40 jobbie :p
 
I use two 2200W kettle elements in a 60L ally pot.

BIAB is fine, I even sometimes give them a zap with the bag in there. No problems so far.

Heats the standard batch in about 30mins to 68. Side by side with Pat's 3-ring burner I noticed mine was a bit slower.

Doesn't seem to scorch the wort as far as I can taste, but have to give the elements a bit of scrub after a boil.
 
Just a couple of points

Elements arent elements, there are a range of them designed for different jobs and the cheapest one may not be the best choice,

I know several commercial breweries that use electric elements, these are mostly either sheathed (covered to spread the heat) or a low density (long for the amount of heat they produce). The reason being that the surface of a high density (short/Hot) element gets very hot, this will (not might) cause scorching, charring and darkening of the wort to some extent.

Also when choosing an element the shorter it is per kw (higher resistance) the shorter the life of the element, again shorter runs hotter - burns out sooner, they cost less but die sooner.

Elements are made of a variety of materials-
The best are Stainless Steel; a poor conductor the heat spreads out more, resistant to corrosion, doesnt add metal ions to your brew, easy to clean.
Worst would be Copper or copper alloy (brass); prone to hot spots, gets corroded in acidic wort, short life (cheapest tho).
In between are plated ones; comes down to the quality of the plating.

Elements should always be earthed, they will burn out eventually and the idea of a 240V hot pot can take on a whole new meaning. Personally I would run anything on a lead that goes near wet stuff through an earth leakage detector; you can get ones that go into power points or as part of a power board (cheap life insurance).

Just thought of a good example, look at the length of the elements in a jug and in a deep fryer, they are both in the appliance section of most supermarkets, the jug will have a short high density element, the deep fryer will have a long low density element to reduce scorching of the oil.

I think the guys from NNL could shed some light on the specifics of elements in wort kettles I hear they have had fun getting commercial sized elements made for among other things that micro that sold on EBay recently. Maybe they could shed some more light on the current thinking.

MHB

I believe we had/have one wood fired brewer on the forum - well it's an alternative to gas.
M
 
Under Constuction...
30 odd lt thick plastic bucket...2 jug elements...Bucket in bucket....stainless "cake stand"
A bag in the bucket...(soon) ..Extra a small immersion heater if necessary...If elements
burn out ...It is back to the Recyclers for another.....(Looking at getting Pail Heater...later on)
Want to stay electric.....
PJ
 
Under Constuction...
30 odd lt thick plastic bucket...2 jug elements...Bucket in bucket....stainless "cake stand"
A bag in the bucket...(soon) ..Extra a small immersion heater if necessary...If elements
burn out ...It is back to the Recyclers for another.....(Looking at getting Pail Heater...later on)
Want to stay electric.....
PJ

PICT0073.JPG


PICT0074.JPG
 
You aren't planning to actually boil in that are you PJ? :blink:

I know there are plastic HLTs about, but I seriously doubt the bucket would stand up to a sustained 60 minute boil! :eek:

Hopefully I've completely misinterpreted the pics :)

PZ.
 
Fingerl....
Gunna give it a go...Same type bucket as used in ......."cds old electric wort boiler".....
Give it a GOOGLE.....
It is a very thick plastic.....If it dont work...Back to the drawing board.... :p
PJ
 
Ok, if you must <_<

Better off just getting yourself a metal kettle though I reckon...look around, they can be quite cheap ;)

PZ.
 
Fingerl..
I have a 22lt heavy stainless pot.(no element or tap).....2...10 lt urns 1..18lt urn 1 ..20 lt Fowlers Vacola Plastic urn...But this one 30 lt +....And a few other Mods for this one...
Have not finished it yet.....GOOGLE The thread "cds etc" and you will see.... :D

PJ
 
Yeah PJ, I looked into it, just not personally keen on the idea of boiling in plastic :)

PZ.
 
Fingerl...
No worrys i am experimenting....I have heard of others using heavy duty fermenters with elements..
Successfully...Am looking for an old electric Stainless Clothes Boiler....
I have to use basically what i have...(The Finance Dept. Disapproves on Expenditure For NON ESSENTIAL
ITEMS) Can do half batches..but not worth the effort...
I am retired now...so have a bit of time to play around...
Only got BEER to worry about and finish my old '37 Ford....
PJ
 
Retired hey? Ok, so its either a heart attack from natural causes or by electrocution then :lol:

Hey, but jokes aside, let us all know how it goesI may not be keen, but there must be others that are :)

PZ.
 
Fingerl....
I have a Retired elctrician friend who will monitor the setup..also a brewer but a confirmed K&K er
He has some rheostats that may be able to regulate the mash or boil....?????/
Otherwise its partials or half brews in the urns.....Till i find the gear....
Or a bit more grain maybe and dilute..have 15 lt ESB drum...and a few more of varying sizes....
PJ
 
Quick update.

I was cooking the other night and had a moment of clarity. While looking at the stove top, I noticed it was a similar size to the diameter of my 80L boiler.

So on Friday night, I put my Kolsch to boil on the stove. I set all four gas burners on high and put the lid on the kettle. As the sparge water had raised the temp to ~75c, it took approx 15 minutes to get the brew (25L) to a rolling boil.

I turned the burners down to 75% and this kept a rolling boil for the full 90 mins.

The only issue is lowering the kettle from the stove after a boil, although once I get the tap mounted I can pour directly from the stove top into the fermenter.
 
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