All grain small batch
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The processes are the same no matter what the batch size.
What changes is your need for precision, if your strike water was a degree or two off in a 50L batch it would have 10 times the effect at 5L. I do a lot of 10L batches, and 200L batches so get to experience this pretty regularly.
Make sure you have a good measuring jug (I use a 5L jug) and a good thermometer (I use a glass lab thermometer and not a crap one). The easiest way to start would be BIAB, get a pot at least twice the size of your batch (or close, the famous 19L pot is good).
Plan, know your strike water temperature and volume, make sure you mash in just a touch under target then top up with a bit of boiling water to hit your targets. Same applies if you want to add hot water (boiling) to get to a mash out, do the calculation, add a bit less then adjust when its stabilised. Overshooting temperatures causes a lot more damage than does undershooting for a short time.
Do simple beers for a start, something basic like a Coopers Pale Ale clone, if you make hop monsters from day one you wont be able to taste what you are getting from your grain bitt, there will be issues and you will need to learn how to get the most out of you malt.
Personally I would be doing some SMASH (single malt and single hop) beers. Budvar, one of the finest pilsners in the world is made from one malt, one hop and one hop addition, I have always thought when you can brew that well it might be time to think about a second malt/hop/addition...
Find a club or like where you can get your beers tasted critically, look for mistakes and learn how to fix them.
I would do the same brew a couple (3) times in a row, gets you really familiar with your equipment and processes.
Keep good records! Knowing what you have done and how the beer turns out helps you make the beers you want.
Remember that making beer is easy, making really good beer consistently and repeatedly is bloody hard, it requires knowledge and control of your processes, fortunately its a bundle of fun - welcome aboard.
Mark
What changes is your need for precision, if your strike water was a degree or two off in a 50L batch it would have 10 times the effect at 5L. I do a lot of 10L batches, and 200L batches so get to experience this pretty regularly.
Make sure you have a good measuring jug (I use a 5L jug) and a good thermometer (I use a glass lab thermometer and not a crap one). The easiest way to start would be BIAB, get a pot at least twice the size of your batch (or close, the famous 19L pot is good).
Plan, know your strike water temperature and volume, make sure you mash in just a touch under target then top up with a bit of boiling water to hit your targets. Same applies if you want to add hot water (boiling) to get to a mash out, do the calculation, add a bit less then adjust when its stabilised. Overshooting temperatures causes a lot more damage than does undershooting for a short time.
Do simple beers for a start, something basic like a Coopers Pale Ale clone, if you make hop monsters from day one you wont be able to taste what you are getting from your grain bitt, there will be issues and you will need to learn how to get the most out of you malt.
Personally I would be doing some SMASH (single malt and single hop) beers. Budvar, one of the finest pilsners in the world is made from one malt, one hop and one hop addition, I have always thought when you can brew that well it might be time to think about a second malt/hop/addition...
Find a club or like where you can get your beers tasted critically, look for mistakes and learn how to fix them.
I would do the same brew a couple (3) times in a row, gets you really familiar with your equipment and processes.
Keep good records! Knowing what you have done and how the beer turns out helps you make the beers you want.
Remember that making beer is easy, making really good beer consistently and repeatedly is bloody hard, it requires knowledge and control of your processes, fortunately its a bundle of fun - welcome aboard.
Mark
Hi Mark.
Thanks for your detailed reply. I appreciate the advice.
I definitely intend to do SMASH beers first up. I’ll probably start with a pale malt. Then try different malts like Pilsner, Vienna etc so I can figure out what I like.
Can’t wait to get started. I’m sure my first batch will be a steep learning curve.
I intend on mashing in by boil kettle. Is this advisable? Or would it be worth getting an esky to mash in for better insulation and temperature control?
Start out with a recipe that is well tested, get it from someone you can trust (I use my local Brewman but there are plenty of good ones) to give you exactly what you need and to do it a couple of times, so you can do the same brew with the same ingredients.
BIAB is about the lowest cost and technically easiest way to get started in AG. About all you need is your recipe, a pot, a bag, a thermometer and a measuring jug. Insulation needn't be more than an old towel. Read the guide to BIAB or google "brew in a bag" there are even YouTube videos out there.
Keep it simple and repeatable.
Ale malts are the easiest, Pilsner (or Pale) can require a bit more processing to get the most out of them, Vienna, Light and Dark Munich are base malts (you can use up to 100%) but I would recommend using them more like specialty malts until you have a lot more experience.
Like any activity, getting the basics right at the start will take you 90% of the way, just get the basics right.
Mark
BIAB is about the lowest cost and technically easiest way to get started in AG. About all you need is your recipe, a pot, a bag, a thermometer and a measuring jug. Insulation needn't be more than an old towel. Read the guide to BIAB or google "brew in a bag" there are even YouTube videos out there.
Keep it simple and repeatable.
Ale malts are the easiest, Pilsner (or Pale) can require a bit more processing to get the most out of them, Vienna, Light and Dark Munich are base malts (you can use up to 100%) but I would recommend using them more like specialty malts until you have a lot more experience.
Like any activity, getting the basics right at the start will take you 90% of the way, just get the basics right.
Mark
Had my first brew day on Friday. Things went pretty well. My mash esky only lost about 1 degree every 10 min, so I just had to top it up with hot water every 20 min.
Main issue I had was with the boil, my kitchen stove only provided a bare minimum boil, looks like I will be buying a gas burner. It’s fermenting away now, can’t wait to try it
Main issue I had was with the boil, my kitchen stove only provided a bare minimum boil, looks like I will be buying a gas burner. It’s fermenting away now, can’t wait to try it
3 brews in now, I haven’t quite made a beer that I’m very happy with. All 3 brews have had a strong yeast flavour that does get slightly better with age but doesn’t go away (8 weeks in bottle). They have also had a plastic flavour.
Brew 2 and 3 had temp control fermentation, 18*c for 4 days then 22*c for around 1 week.
Brew 3 had a small cold crash for about 1-2 days.
I think the plastic taste may come from chlorine/chloramine/chloride. So I am going to try using some Camden tablets in the next batch.
And to take care of the yeast flavour I’m going to use some gelatin and a longer cold crash, probably about 1 week.
Any other tips to help fix my issues would appreciated?
Brew 2 and 3 had temp control fermentation, 18*c for 4 days then 22*c for around 1 week.
Brew 3 had a small cold crash for about 1-2 days.
I think the plastic taste may come from chlorine/chloramine/chloride. So I am going to try using some Camden tablets in the next batch.
And to take care of the yeast flavour I’m going to use some gelatin and a longer cold crash, probably about 1 week.
Any other tips to help fix my issues would appreciated?
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