Airlock Question

[Suds_Moustache]

OK so I get the impression that the airlock doesn't have a great rep as an indicator on this forum and with good reason.

The airlock can stop bubbling for a few reasons etc etc.

But what about if it is still bubbling when the SG reaches 1.006? My brew has been down since Sunday arvo (it's now Friday).
I am going to give racking a go for the first time and I am planning to transfer the tomorrow pending answers to this thread.
I plan to add finings to the mix and bulk prime, so I want to rack just before bottling (or within 24 hours).

But if the bubbling is still occurring, doesn't that tell me that fermentation is still happening. I will check SG again tomorrow before making a final decision, and I am happy to wait until Sunday to bottle (or whenever for that matter).

So...if I get a stable SG but the thing is still bubbling it should be fine to bottle right? I ignore the airlock in cases where it stops AND where it continues after SG is stable. Is that correct?

 

[raven19]

It is probably just CO2 coming out of your beer solution.

Steady reading after 2 days = ok to bottle

 

[Suds_Moustache]

PS I have down:

Morgan's Blue Mountain Lager
Booster Mix (500g dex, 250 light malt, 250 malto dex)
Brewcraft dry enzyme
Brewiser finishing hops (teabag)
additional 480g dex

as mentioned in a previous post I pitched yeast at 32 degrees due to unforeseen circumstances
I have kept temp at around 20 degrees in the laundry tub full of water, wet towel and ice bricks all week.

 

[Suds_Moustache]

Cool thanks Raven, yeah I am pretty keen to get this bottled, without wanting to rush it.
This brewing thing has a hold on me...can't wait for the next one!

 

[muckey]

Raven is absolutely correct. CO2 will continue to release, especially at brewing temps (it'll be slower if you crash chill)

stable hydrometer readings over 2-3 days ( and other indicators like the krausen starting to collapse back into the beer, the milky look of an active ferment beginning to clear as the yeast starts to flocculate are all far better indicators.

1.006 sounds good for bottling

 

[brettprevans]

temp can also play with your airlock., temp changes cause pressure changes and make the airlock bloop cause the pressure inside is greater than outside. so it may not be to do with fermentation. also as Raven said it could just be excess co2. it sounds like its done. but its a fast ferment. you might have some fusil alc in there.

it still baffles me why people want their beer brewed in records times. slower fermentation people = better beer.

So Suds good on you for not wanting to rush it. but PLEASE dont pitch at 32C again. yuck. your taste buds will appreciate it.

 

[Pennywise]

PS I have down:

Morgan's Blue Mountain Lager
Booster Mix (500g dex, 250 light malt, 250 malto dex)
Brewcraft dry enzyme
Brewiser finishing hops (teabag)
additional 480g dex

as mentioned in a previous post I pitched yeast at 32 degrees due to unforeseen circumstances
I have kept temp at around 20 degrees in the laundry tub full of water, wet towel and ice bricks all week.

I would really be inclined to leave it a little longer than 2 days considering you've used the dry enxyme, it's main purpose is to ferment almost all of the sugars in the brew, even the complex ones. This will leave a fairly dry beer and I wouldn't be surprised if it got lower than 1006, or in some cases lower than 1000

 

[Mantis]

I would really be inclined to leave it a little longer than 2 days considering you've used the dry enxyme, it's main purpose is to ferment almost all of the sugars in the brew, even the complex ones. This will leave a fairly dry beer and I wouldn't be surprised if it got lower than 1006, or in some cases lower than 1000

+1, leave it.
Used dry enzyme once and didnt like the resulting beer, so good luck.

 

[dpadden]

I would really be inclined to leave it a little longer than 2 days considering you've used the dry enxyme, it's main purpose is to ferment almost all of the sugars in the brew, even the complex ones. This will leave a fairly dry beer and I wouldn't be surprised if it got lower than 1006, or in some cases lower than 1000

for sure. the last thing you want are those enzymes still working in the bottle (if you are using them)...spells trouble.

i routinely leave ales for no less than 2 weeks....your beer will love you for it and condition much better and faster than in the bottle

 

[Suds_Moustache]

Ok, interesting point about the dry enzymes.

I might hold off for a while then seeing as though leaving it can't hurt, can it?

Pending the SG readings maybe bottling next weekend might be the go.

Thanks for the input.

 

[boingk]

I generally never bottle before the 10 day mark, and often bottle at 14 days. Gives things a time to settle out and sediment to collect in a nice coating on the bottom, and not in your bottles.

Good luck with the brew - boingk

EDIT: Should have made that clearer, the 10 to 14 days thing is for ales. Lagers are a different kettle-o fish...

 

[The Big Burper]

Me too,

2 weeks minimum.

 

[Suds_Moustache]

Ok so if I was to rack my brew, is it ok to attach a hose to the tap and feed it slowly into the secondary, making sure th hose is on the bottom to avoid unnecessary splashing etc?

Only trouble is, both my fermenters have large screw on lids, so technically there is no way to transfer without exposing the beer to air

i.e. the primary is sealed but the lid will need to be off the second to get the hose in.

Will this matter?

I am thinking of transferring tonight, adding finings and then bottling in 2-3 days. No way to crash chill but from what I have read that is desirable but not necessary.

Also can you only bulk prime on immediately prior to bottling? I would imagine this is the case.

 

[buttersd70]

Ok so if I was to rack my brew, is it ok to attach a hose to the tap and feed it slowly into the secondary, making sure th hose is on the bottom to avoid unnecessary splashing etc?

Only trouble is, both my fermenters have large screw on lids, so technically there is no way to transfer without exposing the beer to air

i.e. the primary is sealed but the lid will need to be off the second to get the hose in.

Will this matter?

I am thinking of transferring tonight, adding finings and then bottling in 2-3 days. No way to crash chill but from what I have read that is desirable but not necessary.

Also can you only bulk prime on immediately prior to bottling? I would imagine this is the case.

Show me a Yorkie square with a lid on.......
If you take the lid off the fermenter, the world will end in 17.56165474 seconds....

sorry, but I think you know where I'm coming from and what I mean.....

and re your 2nd, yes, you are correct. Just immediately before.

 

[raven19]

Ok so if I was to rack my brew, is it ok to attach a hose to the tap and feed it slowly into the secondary, making sure th hose is on the bottom to avoid unnecessary splashing etc?

Yes thats what I do. I spray the tap and sanitised hose ends with some metho. You can also use a clean tea towel (spray with metho if you like) over the fermenter lid(s) to reduce chances of nasties getting drawn into the fermenter.

Only trouble is, both my fermenters have large screw on lids, so technically there is no way to transfer without exposing the beer to air

Correct, however give your lids a spray, I tend to unscrew my full fermentor lid a little. It will draw in air no matter what you do, so do it somewhere inside with no breeze, clean surfaces, etc. Try the tea towel idea above if you like.

Also can you only bulk prime on immediately prior to bottling? I would imagine this is the case.

Yes, pretty much straight away, otherwise you are just adding sugar for more alcohol. Needs to be in the bottle with cap on to carbonate.

Prior to kegging I would rack then add sugar, then stir, then bottle all within a short period of time.

I am sure it will go well!

Beers!

Edit: Too slow typing, what butters said +1.

 

[Suds_Moustache]

Thanks guys, I mean it's common sense but I had read somewhere about exposing the beer to air being problematic.

Juts wanted to make sure I wasn't potentially ruining the brew!

AHB, good quick advice for a fraction of the price!

 

[Pollux]

I pop the racking hose into the secondary with a 10L solution of norinse and shake the crap out of it, then hook drain, hook the hose to the primary tap and after holding it up to remove air bubbles in the line I just dump it straight into the 2ndary.

 

[Jakechan]

I rack from primary to secondary going tap to tap. It just seems so logical. No need to remove lids at all (not that I'm worried by that anyway). And no need for the hose to be inside the 2nd fermenter at all.


Cheers,
Jake

 

[Pollux]

I used to do that, then my daughter "helped" one day by grabbing the hose.......

Try turning off two taps at once...........

 

[Jakechan]

I used to do that, then my daughter "helped" one day by grabbing the hose.......

Try turning off two taps at once...........

...tricky.

Im a late starter and have all that to look forward to...maybe next year

Cheers,
Jake