2200 Element-installing In A Keg?

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stueywhytcross

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Hi all, just wondering whether anyone has installed this element -(grain and grape 2200) into a cub style keg? I have recently purchased one but am a little worried that the socket is very flimsy(and im positive its not stainless steel) and dont like the chances of it sealing with the 35mm hole I have to drill to fit it in.

Is anyone using one of these in a keg?

 
Hi all, just wondering whether anyone has installed this element -(grain and grape 2200) into a cub style keg? I have recently purchased one but am a little worried that the socket is very flimsy(and im positive its not stainless steel) and dont like the chances of it sealing with the 35mm hole I have to drill to fit it in.

Is anyone using one of these in a keg?


Hey Stu, I have mine in a keggle, it was a 32 mm hole, the nut is aluminium. Its been great thus far. I had a thread and some photos not long ago, try dig it up for you.
 
Hi all, just wondering whether anyone has installed this element -(grain and grape 2200) into a cub style keg? I have recently purchased one but am a little worried that the socket is very flimsy(and im positive its not stainless steel) and dont like the chances of it sealing with the 35mm hole I have to drill to fit it in.

Is anyone using one of these in a keg?



I've got this one on my CUB keg, the socket is alum, therefore it cannot be welded to S.S. (I got a threaded custom socket made out of S.S. - so I could get it welded to the keg...expensive!) to make a more robust connection....
 
I've got this one on my CUB keg, the socket is alum, therefore it cannot be welded to S.S. (I got a threaded custom socket made out of S.S. - so I could get it welded to the keg...expensive!) to make a more robust connection....

Yeah I just presumed when I bought it that the socket would be stainless and I was going to weld it. I am a bit dubious that the aluminium socket on the hole will be strong enough to get a tight enough seal for a 32mm hole.

Hey Stu, I have mine in a keggle, it was a 32 mm hole, the nut is aluminium. Its been great thus far. I had a thread and some photos not long ago, try dig it up for you.

Thanks Haysie, would be keen to see a picture of it.
 
i would NOT fix this element to anything using the supplied socket as a nut (so to speak) to hold the element in place....

any certified electrician would be called a cowboy if they did this commercially, it is very dangerous!!!!!!!!
 
i would NOT fix this element to anything using the supplied socket as a nut (so to speak) to hold the element in place....

any certified electrician would be called a cowboy if they did this commercially, it is very dangerous!!!!!!!!


not hugely different to how kettle elements are held in place really, the elements in stills are held in precisely that way ,
i dodnt see a problem with the nut holding against the element and the washer to seal it
 
The element comes with a 2-3mm thick silicone rubber seal; you don't have to tighten it too much to get a perfect seal, in fact over-tightening causes the washer to squeeze out.

Cut a nice neat hole and just firm hand tight.

The Aluminium nut/shroud is earthed by its connection to the brass mounting plate of the element and as it's in contact with the body of the "pot" it will earth that to. (yes I metered it to check)

MHB
 
not hugely different to how kettle elements are held in place really, the elements in stills are held in precisely that way ,
i dodnt see a problem with the nut holding against the element and the washer to seal it


unless you happen to get electrocuted !!

I would highly recommend to get a threaded S.S. socket (that will hold the element), welded to the outside of the keg, and (using supplied 'O' ring + some silicon tape on element thread), screw firmly in place - without damaging the integrity of the 'O' ring...safe way to operate.
:icon_cheers:
 
unless you happen to get electrocuted !!

I would highly recommend to get a threaded S.S. socket (that will hold the element), welded to the outside of the keg, and (using supplied 'O' ring + some silicon tape on element thread), screw firmly in place - without damaging the integrity of the 'O' ring...safe way to operate.
:icon_cheers:


and just how is that a better seal ?? same as the washer thats already sealing it .. go buy yourself a cheap kettle and pull the element out of it , tell me if you think thats not safe either....
 
and just how is that a better seal ?? same as the washer thats already sealing it .. go buy yourself a cheap kettle and pull the element out of it , tell me if you think thats not safe either....


hey barramundi got an idea for ya;
 
hey barramundi got an idea for ya;


now your just being silly , honestly there is nothing wrong with the way that element seals as i said its practically the same way as a normal home kettle is sealed ..

if you think that its not safe then so be it
 
I would like to make a practical suggestion.

I have used an element very similar to this, one that has a thread and a metal retainer ring with a threading. I found that over time, the rubber gasket deteriorates and crud gets caught in the threading. This has left me with an old tun to which the element seals pretty well, except the retainer ring has fused - twisting the retainer ring leads to the element twisting too - and a little leakage. Also impossible to remove the element without damaging both parts.

I would suggest using a BSP or NPT threaded heating element and a welded hex bushing instead - these are easily replacable, less likely to fuse, stronger etc.
 
Skippy, shut up. You're the reason people don't listen to me when I tell them they're going to electrocute themselves. In this case, there's no issue at all, provided the contacts are protected so you can't touch them. A junction box would see to that.
 
thats also what the outer housing does lethal , covers up the contacts which are inturn covered by the plug that goes onto them , these elements are commonly used everywhere so i doubt very much theyre as unsafe as made out by skippy..

as with all things electrical care should be taken ..
 
the contacts which are inturn covered by the plug that goes onto them
Figured they were just screw terminals. If it's got a plug, like a kettle (IEC) plug that mates with the contacts, there's no drama. Doesn't matter whether the socket is welded into place or used as a nut.
 
No, actually, if the contacts were screw terminals as I first surmised, a welded socket wouldn't prevent people from touching the contacts any more than using the socket as a nut would. How exactly do you think you're less likely to get electrocuted by getting a socket welded in? In what way will someone who does it the other way suddenly and inexplicably catch on fire? In all the years I've spent studying and working with electrical systems I've never encountered anything that supports your argument. I certainly haven't found anything in your posts that supports your argument. So, if you want to call me a galah, you'd better have something to back it up, son. Otherwise, if the only thing you've got that leads you to post this kind of crap is that you paid good money (or homebrew) to have your socket welded in and you're trying to justify your expenses, sit down and shut up.

EDIT: I do wish you'd make up your mind how you're going to go about insulting me. First was "taking advice from somebody called LethalCorpse, lol", then a picture of the big galah, now a guy with bad hair holding a bit of flex and plugtop. If you actually had anything substantive to add to the discussion it wouldn't take you that many goes, would it?
 

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