Discussion in 'Hops' started by Yob, 9/7/17.
It won't make any difference, the hops will still push through, they know what they're doing.
Bit more aroma in my hops. They are starting to look a bit like curlys Victorias. Time to pull the trigger? ??
I think it can be best to leave it longer than you think (or want). I've planned a brew day for the weekend but will have to postpone it if my Cascades aren't ready.
Good video here:
I watched that video a dozen times while anxiously waiting on my flowers. If I'd let my hops get to that stage I would've had onion and garlic and that's it.
You'll know when they hit their peak, watch them daily.
Ok. Now the seasons over whats the go with 1st year hops going into hibernation? Most of mine have leaves really beginning to dry up and fall off. Still keeping the pots moist. Some say to leave some binds on through the 1st season.
Not exactly sure but I would cut them back and cover with a good rich compost, being as our winters are more wet than cold and frosty. That will protect them from any frosts which you may get and get plenty of nutrients down to the rhizome. Leaving bines with leaves on could encourage mould/mildew.
I'm hesitant to cut back my first year bines and that's based on where I live. I'm getting a second harvest and I'm pretty sure I'd be sacrificing some of the energy that will be directed towards developing the root system shortly after the cold snap is expected in a few weeks.
That's a healthy looking plant there Fungrel, has it actually flowered twice? Are you in a pot or the ground?
The first image is a chinook plant, picked 1kg from it earlier in Feb. Gets most sun of any plant in the yard (13hrs in summer) and it's in the ground, so I suspect that's why it's so aggressive.
Second image is Mt Hood, not as much light but picked around 600g and they've both shot new laterals since Feb. It's in the ground too.
Landscaper commented on how good our soil is here, guess that's partly the reason the first year plants are going ape.
You do know you can take cuttings and propagate them, bit of money on the side there, come spring there will be punters looking for plants.
I did experiment this year and took 4-5 cuttings just by pulling out the shoots and placing them in a raised bed. All of them grew.
This coming year in going to strike them hydroponically before selling them off in pots.
If you have enough room around the base of the plant you can grow new plants by layering.
Never considered it. Do have 2.4m spacing between plants, would be ideal.
Thanks for the tip!
Is anybody interested in swapping some rhizomes? I have heaps of Cascade, and although I love it I am interested in some other varieties for dry hopping. I definitely don't need as much Cascade as I currently have. Mainly brewing US pales. I'm in NE Melb.
when is the ideal time to plant hops ? I'm in new hunter valley . And is buying potted plants better than rhizomes?
Rhizomes are easier to send through the post.
the advantage of buying potted plants is the crown may already be established, this means better chance of increased flower yield. if you have some locally go for it otherwise as hoppy says rhizomes are easier to post.
the best time to plant rhizomes is late winter, at least after the winter solstice. dont mean you cant get them earlier, just keep them wrapped in moist paper towel and in the fridge.
Should I be concerned that these bines are showing barely any signs of slowing down? Most of the others are dying off but these. They get the most light. Near Sydney.
Edit: can't attach images via app. Weird
Buds starting to come up on 2nd year cascades and 2nd year fuggles. They were a lot later last year.
I've still gotta dig out the root systems on mine so I can cut some rhizomes off and stick them in the fridge for a few weeks, and discard the rest. I'm doing this because the best flower yields I've had on all of my plants were in the first year. The rhizomes arrived in the mail and I did store them in the fridge for a short period too.
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