technoicon
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- 24/8/09
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Camlocks or another sort of quick-disconnect would make attaching/removing/changing your hoses much easier than the hose-barbs in the picture.any feed back is welcome.
You need to use something like Beersmith to calculate how much water you will need for a 60lt batch, at a guess about 80-90 lts from start to finish. I'm doing a 40lt brew length and use 63 lts. I use a 40lt HLT and refill once. You need to clarify how the heat will exchange between the HLT and the MLT. I'm guessing you will have a coil in the HLT?
Also because i'm recirculating I dont think I will sparg. so is a bigger HLT required?
I think you will want to sparge mate, you are moving from BIAB (whole preboil volume in urn) to a multi-vessel system - this means (normally) lower water to mash ratio in the MT. Then sparge (batch/fly) once first runnings have been drained from the mash.
If I'm understanding what you propose, you're going to have a problem when it comes time to mash-out and sparging because your HLT is also the HX.ok i should be able to pump into kettle then sparg through?
then pump sparg through to kettle and start boil.
My main question is with the HLT size, why does this need to be bigger, i can sparg with less than 30lt, have 52lt in mash tun recirculating and increase temp through recirculating like i do with biab (I heat and stir). if it's slower out of the MLT and quicker to pump out of HLT it should never have more than 10L in the HLT??? or am i completely off track.
Fermenting is what the yeast does to turn your wort into beer, you're thinking of the time it takes the enzymes in the mash to convert the starches to sugars.after looking into this further i'm worried about water/grain ratio, i cant figure out what a higher water/grain ratio will do the best i could find is it will ferment quicker and take longer to convert?
if this is the case that's fine. i'm happy with a 90 minute ferment.
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