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Well, unless you've got 2 compressors in that fridge, then you can't do 2 separate independent temp zones. Most fridge/freezer thermostats are set for freezing , with a small portion of the freezer air used to keep the fridge compartment about 4~5 degrees Celsius (if your lucky!). It's way...

Why does no one mention malt conditioning, I don't know why you wouldn't do it to be honest as it is really easy to do and so effective!

OK, I reckon read post#10 from Meddo again and have a good think about what you've done so far. If you are playing around with pressure to alter the pour speed, then I think that is a problem there, don't give up, your nearly there! Temperature has a direct influence on how gases behave...

Right, well maybe check your keg, hose and tap fittings for anything that might create turbulence as the liquid flows past and maybe. Check that the fridge is actually obtaining that 2 C through out with an independent temp gauge. I find it is easier to come up to serving pressure than lower it...

That info is ok, it takes a bit of time to adjust down, but also, you want the beer and glass as cold as possible, around 2 C , what temp in the fridge?

32psi sounds a bit much, but it depends on the psi starting point and how cold and exposure time and agitation to the high psi. I do pressure fermenting and need very little adjustment for serving, usually around 15psi (1Bar). You need to strike a balance between hose length, constant beer...

Hi Saxman, hope your aware this a 10 year old post, but as it happens I have one of these WW units, and a very nice bit of kit they are too! You need to back off your PRV to the desired pressure. I found about 15~20psi is about right at approx 20 degrees C for Ale fermenting. Wobbly said 1.5bar...

Well, my little old 2 roller has an 8mm shaft, it was fairly long and had a flat on it for a supplied crank handle, I cut that and shortened it to suit direct coupling to the 90w geared motor with a 10mm shaft, so my set up is 10mm coupled to 8mm. The coupling is a 2 jaw alloy cheapy, but it...

Right, well there should be a return inlet for the chilled water somewhere, and it depends what the set up is in the font is what you have to work with, probably have to reduce the diameter down, or maybe a bi-pass arrangement that circulates a percentage straight back to the tank. It won't...

OK, it looks like you have a 4 coil or 4 independent product lines of beer chiller coils there, plus a chilled water pump outlet that can go to the flooded font, and then returns back to the reservoir via (from what I can see) is the larger pipe in the foreground. If you don't use a flooded...

Fair enough, but are you going to do it.....?

What do you think approximate price might be if you offer the dish based Digiboil, and could the 100L version be possible as well? For instance, I use a Rasberry Pi Craft Brewer controller set up, so I actually don't want the controller side of things, maybe leave the pump in place, but a bare...

You may be able to stave off a melt down of these cheap ssrs by having a good heat sink with fan. If I had to use one, I would mount a cpu type fan on the side blowing across the 2 vanes of that type of heat sink, or use an old cpu heat sink and fan already mounted, or of course just buy a...

Thats all fair enough, but I think what the calculations also need to take into account is the roller diameter and width. I actually have a 90w motor kk kit driving a standard 2 roller mill with only 1 roller driving and other is passive and it handles the load fine, but I see from the...

Yes, and what about a 100L centre drain digiboil too!

I can vouch for the KK kit, it does the job just fine, plenty of grunt, only thing I had to do was scratch up the surface of the shafts a bit with a file for the spider coupling clamps to grip better, been powering along for a few years with no problems, good value I reckon!

Sounds like your talking about glass window shop fronts, not drinking glasses?

Sounds like fun....🤣

Sounds way to complicated and yes I think your over thinking it! Firstly lets clear up something sanitising and sterilizing are 2 different things. Sterilizing nukes everything, sanitising kills a fair percentage of bugs, generally enough for beer making hardware. Those phosphoric acid based...

Yep, you can control how active the yeast is by good temp control of your fermenter, you don't want a 24hr frenzy and then the party is over, try to aim for about 2~3 days of regular "popping' , then slowing down by the 4th day (for Ale). As it gets slow, raise the temp a few degrees for a few...