Wy 1187

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hoohaaman

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I have no experience with 1187 but some with 1469.I have just cultured up a slant of this yeast for the first time.I missed it, yeast gathered at the bottom, wort clear.WOW

I have read numerous reports as to stirring every two days(something that would make me never use this yeast)for full attenuation.Is that true,or just at lower temps.Is this yeast only active at a certain temp,if so what temp to brew without constant fiddling?

Thanks
 
My last 3 brews have all been from an 1187 yeast saved from a brew a few months ago that was straight from the smack pack, that first brew required a considerable amount of external arousal before it fired, 2-3 days. Last 3 brews I pitched starters that were happily Krausening away, had krausen within 24 hours, no need to slap it about to wake it up.

I think Ringwood yeasties just need to be in party mode when you chuck them in, not just after they have had breakfast.

PS, i really like this yeast, my FES I'm drinking roight now is grouse!
 
so a massive yeast count,at what temp.will balance it out?and what temp will this one really have a nap at?

Cheers
 
My one and only 1187 brew was recultured from a case swap bottle and made into a starter. The brew was a 7+% smoked porter and seemed to kick off and attenuate fine with little encouragement. I find London ale III to be a harder yeast to push (starts fermenting like crazy then slows right down and takes an eon to flocc out).
 
Manticle and

ThirstyBunyip thanks for your feedback dudes.Think I'll ditch 1187 and just stock 1469 in my fridge

Cheers
 
I did a Dr. S landlord with 1187 on Anzac day, 1044 with a 1.5L starter, I didn't write down how long it took for the krausen to appear but I think it was only after 6-12 hours, so it was raring to go. It dropped around 10 gravity points a day over the first 2 days (roused it twice a day with a big spoon), but then the krausen dropped out and it slowed down to ~2 points a day, finished at 1010 after a week.

I had also read that it was notorious for going to sleep and leaving you under attenuated, so I was really worried when the krausen dropped out; but it seems like it was perfectly fine left to its own devices. It was my first liquid AG, first liquid yeast so I can't really compare it to anything else :)
 
I've not ever had a problem with 1187, always works nicely and quickly and drops bright without encouragement. I prefer it to 1469...it operates at lower temps in my experience without difficulty (16 or so) and still prduces a nice beer at the higher end of the scale (24/25).
 
Ringwoods WY1187 in my experience needs no more special handling than any other British yeast.
There are probably more micros in the USA using Ringwoods than any other strain & they wouldn't be using if it wasn't a good performer :)


Cheers Ross
 
Unlike the comments above, this yeast has given me trouble. I'm not sure why exactly. I been stepping up starters to 1.5 litres and pitching at high krausen and I've been trying to get as much oxygen as I can in the wort before pitching. I swirl once a day for the first few days to keep the yeast in suspension.

I've had 2 batches in a row (the first 2 with this yeast) that didn't attenuate properly and were way overcarbed in the bottle. My third was bottled 10 days ago and was a 2.25 litre starter plus some yeast nutrient. I'll see how this one goes but I wanted a bit better attenuation (although a got an attenuation at the bottom end of the range for this yeast) in the fermenter so I'm not sure about this one.

Without going into all the gory details of my processes I've had problems with this yeast that I've never had with 1272 or dry yeasts. Unless this third one works out perfectly I'm going to ditch this yeast for the time being until I get my processes fine tuned (I'm a relative noob to AG)
 
I've had 2 batches in a row (the first 2 with this yeast) that didn't attenuate properly and were way overcarbed in the bottle.
)

Hi big78sam,

If your 2 batches didn't attenuate properly & then over carbed in the bottle it's a pretty good indication you've bottled too early before primary fermentation was properly complete. I'd be having a good look at your fermentation regime, to make sure the beer has the best chance of finishing before bottling.


cheers Ross
 
ive only drunk beers with w1187 not brewed with it. from what i gather from brewers who have used it, its like Ross said, just treat it like a normal yeast and make sure you pitch right. some yeaasts are forgiving if you underpitch and will go all guns blazing (ueo5 or equiv), but others are forgiving and you need to pitch the right amount of yeast (and wait for the slow bastards to finish fermenting and floc out). I believe ringwood to be one of these yeasts.

awsome yeast profile though! love it in the darker beers.
 
As others have said, ensure you pitch the correct amount of yeast.
I'd also suggest that ensuring you have maximum oxygenation of your wort prior to pitching will also help - so really go overboard when you shake/stir/whatever method you use to introduce O2 to your wort prior to pitching.
 
I gave each of these a month in the fermenter and was getting consistent SG readings for around 2 weeks with each of them. I agree I need to look at things like better temp control (my fermentation fridge died), pitching rates, oxygenation etc.

I guess my point was summed up well by cm2, it's not 'forgiving' and you've got less margin for error with 1187. I'd advise a noob to get processes spot on with more forgiving yeasts before attempting this one, that's what I'll be doing.

BTW, can anyone recommend a more "forgiving" liquid yeast for english ales/porters?
 
BTW, can anyone recommend a more "forgiving" liquid yeast for english ales/porters?

w1084 irish is pretty forgiving.
I beleive the w1469 west yorky is also forgiving.

the other guys who do more english ales with liquid yeasts can answer better than me.
 
BTW, can anyone recommend a more "forgiving" liquid yeast for english ales/porters?

Probably anything with a lower flocculation by the sounds of things, especially with all the talk of under attenuation and overcarbing in the bottle. I'd recommend rousing the yeast daily if you have unstable temperatures too if you still want to use this highly flocculative yeast.

Maybe Thames Valley Ale 1275?
 
Spent some time building this yeast up,pitched 2lts high krausen into 20lt hobgoblin clone.Looking forward to the results.

Ross,any examples of USA micro beers using 1187,I'm keen to give them a try.

Cheers
 
I've got an esb on the go at the moment with some more recultured ringwood. Just coming up to krausen now so I hope it works the same second time around as it did the first.

@big7sam - I have had no trouble using 1099 (whitbread). As mentioned above, 1318 (london III) starts a vigorous ferment then slows right down and will even stall at 1020 for a few days. I normally rack around 1020 and that plus a few swirls and a blanket seems to do the trick - 1060 finally down to 1012 (on 3 ocassions now) . She's a bit tricky too because she leaves a thick krausen on the top even when completely finished so you think ferment is still going. I've had similar experiences with german ale 1007.

I still very much like 1318- you just need patience. All of these yeasts are good for top cropping. It's Irish not English, but 1084 is also a decent yeast to use in any UK style.
 
Spent some time building this yeast up,pitched 2lts high krausen into 20lt hobgoblin clone.Looking forward to the results.

Ross,any examples of USA micro beers using 1187,I'm keen to give them a try.

Cheers

IIRC, Ross was telling me when I went into the shop the other day that Dogfish Head exclusively use Ringwood. He also told me that there was some tastings done using US05 instead and they were better received than the 1187 versions.

So look out for the Dogfish Head 60 Minute, 90 Minute, and 120 Minute IPA
 
I am about to use WY1187 for the first time and have built up a starter from a split yeast pack (25B cells) via 500ml and now 1 ltr.... total cell count now around 180B cells as per Yeast Calc and the required cells is 128B (Dr Smurto's Light Amber).

Having read all these "issues" with Ringwood has me thinking about what best to do to give it the best chance... Should I build another 1ltr to increase the cell count to 300B (double required count) or just pitch the 180B and give it a good rousing over the first few days (nervous about that as I haven't stuck anything like a big spoon in the FV after pitching the yeast!)

Any tips would be appreciated. :beer:

Camo
 
I am about to use WY1187 for the first time and have built up a starter from a split yeast pack (25B cells) via 500ml and now 1 ltr.... total cell count now around 180B cells as per Yeast Calc and the required cells is 128B (Dr Smurto's Light Amber).

Having read all these "issues" with Ringwood has me thinking about what best to do to give it the best chance... Should I build another 1ltr to increase the cell count to 300B (double required count) or just pitch the 180B and give it a good rousing over the first few days (nervous about that as I haven't stuck anything like a big spoon in the FV after pitching the yeast!)

Any tips would be appreciated. :beer:

Camo

The lower OG beer will allow you to pitch a tad lower but a good whipping with a whisk the day after pitching would help. Gently rousing by swirling the fermenter every day after that (if necessary, often not) and then once you are seeing the krausen drop raise the temp to 20-22C to get the last point or 2.

I wouldn't have bothered splitting the yeast, this strain can be happily top cropped.
 

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