What's The Best Way To Post Efficiency On Ahb?

[Trent]

Jeez, PP, you sure can type!
Anyway, I think that Baywiess is on the money with the experiment bit, but I am not exactly sure how you are going to tell if the efficiency has gone down, specially in 2.5L. Maybe you can PM him and work out exactly what sort of numbers you should be looking for to see if it is actually the boil that drives off some fo the sugars.
For the record now, I belive you Pat. MY PRE BOIL EFFICIENCY IS ALWAYS HIGHER THAN MY POSTBOIL EFFICIENCY! Just thought I would put it in capitals so anyone skipping through wouldnt miss it. I include the trub and kettle losses in my calculations, so there is nothing missing there, but I find I always have 5-10% more efficency into the kettle than I do coming out (and my pickup tube is on the bottom of the kettle). I just did an IPA that had 83% efficiency preboil (26L at 1058) and 76% postboil (approx 23L at 1060), 26 x 58 = 1508. 1508/23 = 65.5. 1065. Thats what my OG SHOULD have been, but it wasnt. It never is. Just part of the way my system seems to work. I measure my volumes empirically (calibrated metal rod), and check with refrac and hydro, cooling beforehand. So, maybe we are wierd, but I believe your numbers, Pat, cause obviously I am in the same boat. I just determine all my recipes to postboil targets.
All the best
Trent

 

[Screwtop]

PP I didn't read all of your posts as I am going away next weekend and don't have the time.

But as for the confusion re BREWHOUSE efficiency in Beersmith, I might be able to help. This bugged the shit out of me for a long time, till I gave up and only bothered using Mash Efficiency. Think a quick (read SHORT) email to Brad Smith would clear things up, but here's my take on the situation.

You enter the parameters for your equipment into Beersmith.

You enter a recipe and select/set the Style, then select the Equipment and Brewhouse Efficiency or maybe you leave these set to default.

Beersmith uses some of the figures from the Equipment selected to calculate post boil volume and gravity.

If the actual results vary from the predictions then the actual Brewhouse Efficiency figure will vary from what you had set. Because your system produced an incorrect result based upon the prediction, which was based upon the equipment data. If the actual post boil results match the predicted results then no negative or positive would be applied and the actual would be the same as the Brewhouse Efficiency set for the recipe.

Think that when it comes it comes down to Brewhouse Efficiency it's firstly a matter of experimentation then applying known results to your equipment settings in Beersmith.

Does this make sense

 

[lucas]

I'd join in the experimenting but I've only just calibrated my stick to measure volume and I'm not sure how much I trust it yet. up until now I've been using the "blind faith" method that my volumes are "about right", but that wasnt always working out so well.

how exactly are people calculating their efficiencies? how are you actually coming to your figures? I played about with this method from byo and PPs volumes and gravity and found what bayweiss was saying to be quite true. Changing SG figures by only a very small amount was changing the amount of sugars extracted by a significant amount. I've no explaination why you might consistantly get a positive limit-of-reading error before the boil and a lower one after though, perhaps some really sugar is disappearing somewhere? no idea...

I meant to check in DGB how daniels does efficiency, but I didnt get around to it yet... and i'm dreading the fact that it's probably been done in retarded imperial units that make no sense!

 

[brendanos]

but I am equipment-less (this means without a hydrometer) at the moment

I had a dreamnightmare last night that I was in a foreign country (possibly an african desert), was going to brew the next day, and was given the news that someone had broken my hydrometer. Man was I angry.

(Sorry, OT)

 

[Hogan]

I'd be wrapped if someone else had some measurements though or could take some on their next brew as I am aware that mine do contradict what we think to be true.

I certainly can't find any pre, during or post boil measurements anywhere I've looked in books or the net unfortunately. Has anyone got some or is brewing in the next few days and can get us some?

OK Pat - you've got me. Today I was thinking of just relaxing in the beautiful Southern Highlands autumn sunshine and cooking a brew. But I decided to give you a hand and jot down down a few stats that may (or may not) be helpful to your current efficiency issue.

My recipe is a basic german pilsner which I have done a couple of times but today I am lowering the mash temp to get a dryer result. I use Beersmith and I have included a snap shot of my equipment and the finished efficiency details. My previous brews (once I got my system sorted out) have all come in around 82% so I have set my Brewhouse percentage at 80%.

BeerSmith Recipe
Recipe: Schultz German Pilsner-3
Brewer: Hogan

Style: German Pilsner (Pils)
TYPE: All Grain
Taste: (40.0)

Recipe Specifications
--------------------------
Batch Size: 25.00 L
Boil Size: 31.76 L
Estimated OG: 1.048 SG
Estimated Color: 8.0 EBC
Estimated IBU: 27.4 IBU
Brewhouse Efficiency: 80.0 %
Boil Time: 90 Minutes

Ingredients:
------------
Amount Item Type % or IBU
4.00 kg Pale Malt (Barrett Burston) (3.9 EBC) Grain 83.9 %
0.50 kg Munich, Light (Joe White) (17.7 EBC) Grain 10.5 %
0.27 kg Cara-Pils/Dextrine (3.9 EBC) Grain 5.7 %
53.00 gm Hallertauer Hersbrucker [3.30%] (60 min) Hops 16.6 IBU
40.00 gm Tettnang [4.70%] (20 min) Hops 10.8 IBU
1 items Whirlfloc Tablet (Boil 15.0 min) Misc
2 Pkgs Fermentis (DCL Yeast #34/70) Yeast-Lager


Mash Schedule: Micks Infusion Mash
Total Grain Weight: 4.77 kg
----------------------------
Name Description Step Temp Step Time
Step Add 14.31 L of water at 71.6 C 63.0 C 90 min


All gravity measurements were done on the refractometer using Docs conversion chart. My mash tun is a rectangular esky and I use a five bar cross cut slot manifold.




Gravity stats are as follows:

Strike temp was right on the money and stayed between 63-64c for the whole of the 90 minute mash.
Sparge was double batch (13 lts. then 10 lts). All readings are prior to mixing and the pipette sample was cooled in ambient temp water prior to reading.

Runnings off the mash Brix 18 (1.075)

1st sparge Brix 9 (1.037)

2nd sparge Brix 4 (1.017)

combined runnings Brix 9.4 (1.038) Beersmith predicted SG of 1.037

Volume into kettle 32.5 litres (Beersmith predicated 31.76 lts.)

Kettle bought up to boiling Brix 9.2 (1.037)

15 minutes into boil Brix 9.4 (1.038)

30 minutes into boil Brix 9.6 (1.039) First Hop Addition...

45 minutes into boil Brix 10.4 (1.042) Notice gravity leap after hops added.

60 minutes into boil Brix 10.8 (1.044)

75 minutes into boil Brix 11.0 (1.045)

80 minutes into boil Second hop addition

90 minutes into boil Brix 12.2 (1.050) Flame Out. (Beersmith predicted 1.048)

30 minutes after flame out - Brix 12.2

Wort volume post boil 24 litres.




Boil was a very vigorous 90 minutes. Although my 'equipment' is set at 12% evaporation during boil a loss of 8 litres (15%) is quite usual. If I had achieved the set volume of 25 litres - efficiency into fermenter would have been 84.2%

Hope this is of some value to you Pat.

Cheers, Hoges.

 

[Ross]

Those readings look spot on Hoges

cheers Ross

 

[PistolPatch]

My computer was playing up last night (the night before it was the thing on the end of the computer that was playing up :unsure so I haven't had time to read the above thoroughly though I did get 11 hours sleep!

I saw Trent's post saying he had the same thing happen as I did. This made me think that boiling some extract (which has already been boiled) may produce a different result than boiling actual wort. But now Hoges has given us some detailed figures that contradict mine and Trent's. Trent's figures turn out as expected. Man, I am perplexed!

Thanks a heap Hoges for doing all the above so well and thanks to all the others above (and one in a PM) that are prepared to do the same on their next brew. Can't wait to see what everyone comes up with.

I wonder if we end up getting two sets of different figures??? How bad would that be - OMG!

LOL
Pat

P.S. Special thanks to Trent too. It's great to know that at least one other person out there is having the same problem. For a while there I was even thinking I wasn't an insane measurer, just an insane AHB poster If it turns out to be the former as well then at least Trent and I can have meetings. Super!

 

[Ross]

Pat,

I honestly believe your strange findings are measuring inaccuracies.
You are going to struggle with a refractometer to get consistant/accurate enough results at the level you need for the experiment without a controled way of cooling like Hoges has used. Despite the fact they are temperature adjusting, i find the most accurate measurement is when the sample has just reached approx ambient temp. If you leave it too long, the figures change - don't ask me why, coz i don't know, but I guess it could have something to do with the break etc seperating out in your sample.
If you want accurate easy to read figures, draw your samples at various stages, cool them all to the same temp & use a hydrometer. Edit; Also, make sure all your wort volumes are measured at boiling & are accurate.

I believe most people are only interested in getting consistant results on their system & hitting the final gravity as expected. To this end, i know that a 90min boil on my system raises the average wort by 2.2brix. I simply make any adjustments, if necessary, at the beginning of the boil.



Cheers Ross

 

[FNQ Bunyip]

MMMMM well I've been following this because I get differant results as well ...so I just gave up trying to work it out and don't worry with any mesuring at all..


I fill my kettle to about the same each time
drop the grain in / pull it out
Boil for 1hr / cool
drain into fermenter and end up with about 24-26lt ( marked on fermenter)

tastes sweet/ feels sticky ,
add yeast wait a week and drop into a keg

6 glasses later I know if its about right or not ...


might do another brew on the weekend and will get the hydro and refrac out and see what I get ,, Just for you Pat..

:beer:

 

[brendanos]

If you want accurate easy to read figures, draw your samples at various stages, cool them all to the same temp & use a hydrometer. Edit; Also, make sure all your wort volumes are measured at boiling & are accurate.

This is pretty much what I did yesterday, drawing off a sample pre boil and post boil (volume is that collected in fermenter). Hot samples were chilled, then brought to an average temp of 21C over half a day. I take the easy (cheats?) route and set the volume of wort in ProMash, then adjust efficiency til I hit the gravity reading from a hydrometer.

Pre boil, 18L @ 1.035 (78% efficiency)
Post boil, 13L: @ 1.046 (74% efficiency)

For a 28% reduction in volume, 4% loss from kettle to fermenter seems pretty tidy to me. I would attribute it to losses to hops (65g, mostly flower) and break material, though these losses are significantly better than I previously would get without the hop sock. FTR I was expecting 74% efficiency.

 

[Trent]

When I usually take my pre boil readings, I take them at ambient temp, so I am fairly sure they are right, but am happy to be proven otherwise (I know I am too far away for anyone to actually do this, but it just means I am not saying I am 100% correct).
BUT, reading Brendanos' post just above me here is where I find my efficiency goes a little haywire, although Brendanos seems to be happy with it

18L at 1.035 can be translated to 18 x 35 = 630 gravity points.
If those 630 gravity points were still there in the 13L, it would be 1.0485
(630/13 = 48.46)
In reality, he has 13 x 46 = 598.

Where did those other 32 gravity points go? Feel free to do the maths yourselves, and I am also open to the possibilty that brendanos hasnt measured accurately and is .7L out (which will prove my argument incorrect), but this is fairly well what I come across most brews. At the end of the day, I am quite happy to trust my system is going to hit the right gravity at the end of the boil/chill/etc.., and it usually does. I just dont base my efficiency on my preboil gravity, cause then I would be hitting below my targets all the time (I think).
Brendanos was expecting 74%, and he hit it - postboil. Thats the way I play the game anyway. But I still think that there must be some sugars that boil off. If you put your face over the steam (okay, WAY above the steam) when you are boiling and peeking in, then take it away and let the condensation evaporate, does it feel a little sticky? I find it does.
Sorry - rambling a little bit here. Anywayas previously stated, I usually hit my targets, just my preboil and postboil efficiencies dont correlate.
All the best
Trent

 

[lucas]

Where did those other 32 gravity points go?

From what brendanos has said and what you've said I can identify two main possible sources of error.

1. brendanos post boil volume measurement is taken in the fermenter, so as he has identified there will be a loss of wort to hops/deadspace etc, wort containing gravity points. there's also the chance that the marked volumes on his fermenter dont exactly correlate to his measured volumes in his brewpot.

2. expansion/contraction of the wort at different temperatures. if all reading are taken at boiling this can simply be ignored, but if your pre boil volume readings are before boiling and the post boil volume readings are some time later then the two figures cant be directly compared. the quoted 4% expansion is between boiling and some other temp (off the top of my head it's either 4 or around 20 degrees, I cant say for certain), so applying it to volumes of wort that is between these two temperatures isnt going to be a magic fix.

there's also limit of reading errors, try fudging some of the less significant digits of the readings and see how easy it is to create or lose gravity points, but work is over so I'm heading home rather than harping on about that right now

 

[brendanos]

I'd be willing to wager most of those 32 gravity points would be found firstly in the compost bin amongst the hop matter, and secondly in the bottom of the kettle (with the cold break) and the sock that I ran the beer through just incase any of the denser break made it out of the kettle. It seems fairly likely that while this cold break material is suspended in the liquid (pre boil) that it would contribute to some of the density of the liquid aka the specific gravity. FTR I did mix the sediment back in when taking SG readings.

I'm not dismissing the possibility that some more/less dense non-water particles evaporate off during the boil (in fact this is obviously true, as it is one of the many functions of the boil, but what effect they have on the overall density of the liquid I can't really speculate), I haven't seen proof either way, so I'm happy not to take a side. I'll help narrow it down though, in our homebrewed version of scientific evaluation.

A refractometer is in the mail, so next time I should have a more detailed set of data.

 

[Trent]

Brendanos
I usually account for my trub, etc... when calculating my efficiency, so it is quite possible that is where those 32 points are, if you dont calculate the .7L that would be needed to take up that slack. As I have said, if I get 23L into my fermenter, I know that my pickup tube leaves 2.5L in the kettle, so I calculate my efficiency on 25.5L post boil. As I said earlier, if you havent taken into account that .7L, or didnt measure accurately, then my argument is out the window! Re-reading your post now, it is obvious I misread it the first time, as I didnt realise you didnt count the kettle losses. Anyway, it matters not all that much to me, I just want to put forward my experiences, and show everyone that PP isnt insane (or that I am), and see if anyone else has had similar occurences. I only used your post as an example, because your numbers were higher pre boil, as I usually experience.
It appears at least 2 of us go through this phenomenom, and not many, if any, others do. I am happy to write it off as a system specific anomaly, but will look forward to more detailed data.
All the best
Trent
PS Lucas - I take into account the 4% expansion of wort at boiling, though when I take my readings, the wort is usually at ambient, and the 4% is not an issue. Off the top of my head, I think the expansion is between 4C and boiling, but I am not certain either! I know it is easy to fudge, and/or make mistakes, but it happens regularly enough to not surprise me. T.

 

[brendanos]

there's also the chance that the marked volumes on his fermenter dont exactly correlate to his measured volumes in his brewpot.

Brewpot markings/measurements were made by running set volumes from a fermenter into the kettle a few times until mean/consistant levels were reached, so this should rule that one out.

2. expansion/contraction of the wort at different temperatures. if all reading are taken at boiling this can simply be ignored, but if your pre boil volume readings are before boiling and the post boil volume readings are some time later then the two figures cant be directly compared. the quoted 4% expansion is between boiling and some other temp (off the top of my head it's either 4 or around 20 degrees, I cant say for certain), so applying it to volumes of wort that is between these two temperatures isnt going to be a magic fix.

Both readings were taken at 21C 16ish hours later (during which time they were rested in sealed mugs and sat in a water bath with a third "pitched" sample), so unless I'm missing the point (in which case I'd love to be clued in!) I think they should be relatively comparable.

I will concede that taking the readings off the hydrometer was a painful task, and the less than desirable accuracy of the readings means that I wouldn't overanalyse them/extrapolate too far with regards to the comparisons. I would definately prefer a larger scale to work with, or another means of consolidating values (refractometer!).

 

[PistolPatch]

My goodness! Now everyone's writing long posts! Ross that has to be the longest post you have ever written - lol!

So proud of myself - I thought I had solved the 2 different sets of figures problem but my idea actually makes things worse - agh! (I was thinking that Trent and I seem to take our volume readings just off the boil rather than whilst boiling. Hard to take ruler measurements whilst boiling but it seems to read reads 1.5 - 2cm higher anyway so this is no help. Grrr!) My gravity sample though is taken just before I turn the gas off to get my volume reading so the wort is well-stirred.

I just worked out the margin of error we are looking for on my last set of figures in case this does help. To match my final efficiency, my start of boil efficiency should have either had 3lts less of wort (2cm on my ruler) or 0.55 less Brix. I don't think either of these can be put down to the way I'm reading the instruments. Also, if I am misreading the instruments then I am reading them incorrectly at the same time on each brew whether I'm having a beer or not :blink:

Re Ross's comments on reading the refractometer I agree. Read as soon as at ambient otherwise it continues to steadily climb probably as the water content evaporates or something.

It also looks like Trent and I aren't the only poor buggers getting this problem. Just found the following thread on Norther Brewer. Unfortunately the discrepancy hasn't been resolved there either. Great

I so wish we could get the figures to match pre and post-boil then an AHB standard would be really easy.

Looks like Ned has been having troubles as well and it will be especially interesting to see what figures he pulls on the weekend as his kettle is a different shape from mine Good on ya Ned! If he has the same problem then kettle shape is not going to be the answer.

By the way, I use a 70lt Robinox with 45cm diameter so lots of surface area and very high evaporation rates. I wonder if Trent has a similiar kettle to mine or maybe Ned's???

This is worse than the worst brain teaser puzzle - quite infuriating! I have no patience for brain-teasers. I just look the answer straight up. It's much quicker! Waiting for all these figures is a nightmare - lol.

 

[lucas]

Both readings were taken at 21C 16ish hours later (during which time they were rested in sealed mugs and sat in a water bath with a third "pitched" sample), so unless I'm missing the point (in which case I'd love to be clued in!) I think they should be relatively comparable.

yes, you've measured both the gravities at the same temp and those by themselves are total comparable. but the point I was getting at is that unless you measure your volumes all at the same temp they are not directly comparable. if you measured pre boil volume at mashout into kettle temps (60-ish), mid volume boil at 100C and post boil in the fermenter (80-ish assuming you're no-chilling) you'd need to know some more constants to draw comparisions. ie. (preboil vol)* (expansion factor @ 60) vs (midboil vol * 1.04) vs (postboil vol)* (expansion factor @ 80)

honestly, I dont measure things with this much accuracy myself yet as my efficiency is still a bit all over the place, but when I'm trying to explain something I like to think about things and an analytical manner

 

[Trent]

PP
My kettle is a legally acquired 80L keg, one of them almost oval shaped ones. My evaporation rate is about 4L per hour on average, so it would appear that has little to do with it (I have to keep the lid 2/3 on during the boil to keep a full on rolling boil)

Lucas
I actually (usually) mash and sparge one night after work, and keep the lid on the kettle, and then the next night I come home and set the flame on. The qort is usually around ambient, judging by the feel of the kettle, and if it is higher, would rarely be more than 30C or so, and as such would have little effect on the refractometer reading. When I take the reading, I stir the hell out of it with a paddle, to redistribute all the sugars, that take some of the wort and measure that. Postboil figures are taken direct from the fermenter pre pitching yeast, and is usually between 18 and 20C (temp it comes out of my chiller). Too many variables, and obviously, after checking the thread PP found, it happens to some people, but not most. At least I dont LOSE gravity points! Knock on wood.
All the best
Trent

 

[PistolPatch]

[Edit: I've tried to think through all measurement problems below but I will have missed some. If anyone has improvements to the following or sees some errors, please let me know. Quite amazing how much writing it's taken though. I honestly thought it would only be two paragraphs! My allowing for hops below is a bit over the top but at least it will standardise the measurments.]

Template for Measuring Start of Boil and Post-Boil Efficiencies

For those of you who did put their hand up to post their figures, I've jotted down some notes (very pedantic ones) on what readings to take and how to take them. I've done this not only for guys who are a little unsure of how to take their readings but also to provide a standard method amongst all of us.

I think it would make it really easy for everyone to see and analyse the figures you provide if you copy and paste the last bit of this post but substitute my figures for yours.

I have also included some instructions so that when an experienced guy sees your raw figures they will be able to copy your post and convert them quickly to efficeincy figures.

We need a minimum of 2 readings, preferably using a hydrometer, plus the weight of your grain bill - not its actual composition.

How to Measure Start of Boil Efficiency

1. Hops If you have hops to add at the start of the boil then add them after taking the following volume and gravity measurements.

2. Gravity When wort comes to the boil use a coffee mug (saves your hydrometer tube warping) to take enough wort to fill your hydrometer tube. Cover it with Glad Wrap to avoid evaporation and then let it sit in a sink of cool water. Stir it from time to time and when it is at 20 degrees, pour it into your hydrometer tube and take your reading. Write down your reading to 3 decimal places e.g. 1.040

(Some hydrometer tubes use 250ml of wort for a reading. If it is this high then pour your sample back into the kettle and add these mls to your volume figure in 3 below. Most commercial hydrometer tubes only use about 100 mls so, if you have the thinner tube then I wouldn't worry.)

If using a refractometer, take a tablespoon of wort, dribble it onto the refractometer and take the reading five minutes later. Write down the Brix reading and multiply it by 4.1 then add 1 unit. e.g a Brix reading of 10.0 would equal 1.041. Post this to 4 decimal figures so people can see that you used a refractometer.

We will call this figure, 'Gravity at Beginning of Boil.'

3. Volume Turn off your heat and wait one minute, then take your volume reading. Write this down in litres as close as you can get to 1 decimal place e.g. 30.6lts and then multiply it by 0.96 to allow for wort expansion, (30.6 x 0.96 = 29.376) to get the figure we are interested in. Convert this to 1 decimal place and publish this figure. In this example it would be 29.4lts.

Final Efficiency

1. Check that your fermenter is correctly graduated. Commercially bought ones should be.

2. Just before the boil ends, take another sample using your coffee mug or tablesppon in the same manner as you did for your Start of Boil gravity reading. This sample will end up down the drain so if it is of significant volume (eg 200 mls or so) then remember to add these mls in the step below.

Once cooled to 20 degrees, write the figure down to 3 or 4 decimal places depending on whether you used a hydrometer or refractometer. We will call this figure, Gravity At End of Boil.'

3. I am going to assume you are doing an ale. Chill your wort to 20 degrees (+/- five degrees) and then syphon it into your fermenter. Stop syphoning when the wort starts to run cloudy or when you have reached the desired volume into your fermenter. Write down how many litres you scored into the fermenter. Have a crack at guessing it to within 100mls though this is of course not possible. This will be Volume 1.

4. Now you will be left with your trub in the kettle. If you have a hopsock, take it out. You should now have an empty kettle. Pour all that remains into a graduated jug and then write down the mls. This will be Volume 2.

5. If you used a hopsock, then record the total amount of hops you have added into your brew in grams and then convert this to mls. For example if you added 90 grams of hops then write down 90mls. This will be Volume 3. If you didn't use a hopsock and your hop debris remains in the kettle then your Volume 3 figure will equal zero.

6. Add Volumes 1, 2 and 3 and then round this figure to one decimal place. This will be what we will call your 'final volume' which is a more accurate description for our purposes than volume into fermenter.

Grain Bill

Write down how many kilos of grain you used in the brew to two decimal places. e.g. 5.25kgs.

That is all you need to post here. The advanced guys will use Beersmith to convert your figures into a compatible efficiency. If you are not one of these advanced guys then you can skip the next section and jump straight to the bit that says, 'These Are My Figures.'

Advanced Guys

I think, for the sake of simplicity, that a single type of grain should be assumed. I reckon we should choose a grain that has a potential SG of 1.038. For example if one of the guys above has posted they used 5.25kgs of malt then we plug into Beersmith 5.25kg of Weyermann Pale Malt. Most base malts are up around there though for the sake of this exercise is everyone happy to use that malt?

I think we should use Beersmith as more people seem to have it. Also, regardless of the lauter tun deadspace figure, it makes no difference if you plug the figures into the Efficiency Into Boiler section or the Efficiency Into Fermenter section.

I also think that the term, 'Final Efficiency,' avoids a lot of confusion and could maybe even be a candidate for an AHB standard. (Some advantages and some disadvantages here.)

So, if you see someone has posted their raw figures, can you copy their post and whack the following in at the end?...

Efficiency Into Boiler = x%
Final Efficiency = y%

I'm going to whack my figures in below, (have adjusted my volumes to 4% shrinkage instead of the 5% I originally used and had a guess at hop figures) but I think it would be better for the thread if one of you guys copied the last part of my post and added the efficiency figures. This would be a lot better than me doing 3 posts! Just quote the last part of this post and whack your figures in.

The rest of this post shows what can be posted by anyone.

These Are My Figures...

Brewer: PistolPatch
Grain Bill Weight: 3.78kg

Volume at Beginning of Boil = 32.4lts
Gravity at Beginning of Boil = 1.0295

Final Volume = 25.8lts
Gravity at End of Boil = 1.0336

 

[Screwtop]

How can you write such long posts Pat

Faaark! I can't even read em, wish it was the same as email, any long winded emails I receive, I just hit the delete button. I'm here for a good time not a long time! Anything that long has to be far to serious, leave that megaswill shit alone, it does funny things to you around the Easter full moon.