what type of burner

[lmccrone]

Some help on this would be appreciated

I'm putting in a laundry in our carport and have taken the opportunity to make it a bit more brewery friendly, including putting in a natural gas point. I'm looking at a couple of different burners from this mob

https://www.auscrown.com.au/page/shop/browse/a/category/e/commercialcastironburners

They have duckbill burners, Mongolian burners and chimney burners from 10 jet up to 32 jet. I'm leaning towards a 24 jet Mongolian chimney burner, the chimney looks like it would make the most efficient option. By current brewery is 50 L but I'm allowing for an upgrade to 100 L one day ( a man can dream cant he?)

My physics is very rusty but here goes,

100 L of water (100,000 g of water) to increase by 80 C by 4.186 K/g C =

100,000x80x4.186= 33,488,000 J or 33.488 Mj

So if the burner I'm looking at has a heat capacity of 98 Mj/hr i should be able to boil 50 L of water in like 10 mins. This seems to good to be true, what am I missing? Also any advise on types of burners would be appreciated.

Cheers

Luke

here are the specs


Model No.

CB24NG

Energy Type

Natural

Fitting

1/2" BSP

Gas Consumption

2.57 m³/hr

Gas Pressure

1 kPa

Heat Capacity

98 MJ/hr

Jet Size

1.2mm

Product Dimension
WxDxH

Ø300x185mm

Product Net Weight (kg)

7.5 kg

 

[DJ_L3ThAL]

Calcs are good (specific heat capacity units are J/kg.C you've used it correctly just typo).

Assuming 100% perfect heat transfer from the burner to the water you'd be correct, but in reality you won't get that. You're probably looking at more like 30% efficiency with a heat/wind shield, therefore it will take more like 30 mins to heat up the 50L I'd suggest.

 

[rehabs_for_quitters]

I would advise if you can get to see one running do so as on a standard reg you need to have them full open to get a clean flame, even then they soot up your pot a bit and they are too fierce, on my 23 I could only ever have it half cracked or it would boil over, I put a high pressure reg on a 23 tip mongolian to help with soot and it's spastic and too hot and always over shoots temps,

I have a gas pilot and that soots the pot no matter what I do, I run a 60L pot but when I build again I would probably go 10tip and run it full open and hope it was about right, or buy the 23 and block off some jets so you don't get a blackened sooty mess

 

[sponge]

You can always get a decent burner (I've got a 3 ring for my keggle at this stage which easily does the job) and pair it with an OTS element to get to the boil quicker and then just turn it off once you've reached boiling point?

It's probably also a more efficient way of bringing the wort to a boil with the element being submersed.

I've got an OTS element for this reason. Just helps to save a few minutes of waiting...