Ways to purify and sterilise water

[rude]

He wants another way to sterilise water
I think he is doing a bit of reading which is good
Hey Mac how do you brew ?
Do you all grain , partial or K&K
I think I brew better beers using an R/O filter system but say I was in Melbourne I wouldnt use one

 

[manticle]

Yes but sterilise has a very specific meaning.

It's not remotely the same as dropping out minerals which is not the same as removing chlorine.

Need clarification, preferably from OP in order to provide useful information specific to the question being asked

 

[RdeVjun]

Context is important, no critical here in fact. Need more information about the OP's application, it will make a considerable difference to the validity of any answers.
Eg. Cleaning up manky rainwater for a kit or ROing for AG, both have a particular purpose in the right context but in no way could they be swapped and achieve the same ends. Seeing as we're in the recipe & ingredients/ water subforum then it's not obvious what the application is.
So, over to you mate, tell us exactly what you are doing?

 

[Adr_0]

You need to know what is in your water and what it needs to make it better for brewing.
A RO unit if it is well looked after (many aren't) will give you a pretty blank slate, you would be wanting to add some salts especially Calcium as 50-100ppm of Ca is regarded as a minimum.
My local water is good (they mostly use Chlorine rather than Chloramine), if anything a bit light on for most minerals, for some styles I use a two stage filter (particulate then carbon) followed by UV steriliser if it's necessary. For yeast I use Pureau water from woolies, its about as 'pure' as you can get.
If you just want to get rid of Chlorine/Chloramine I would use Potassium/Sodium Metabisulphite (Campden tablets), would only be bothered boiling if there was a lot of Bicarbonate in my water... do what is necessary to improve the water I have.

There are several threads on local water analysis one called "big thread on water around Australia" or something like that, look at your local water analysis there if you can, or on your local water authority website, work out what you are trying to achieve and go from there.
Mark

I have used the Pureau a lot for paler beers to dilute my moderate water (eg 10L out of 30L) but what is your logic for using it with yeast, given there should be some trace Ca and Zn? Just because there's no chlorine and it's convenient or something else?

 

[maclarkson]

Put it in a ziplock bag and give it a tickle with the flat side of a meat mallet

(or just use the powdered stuff...)

[emoji23]

 

[maclarkson]

Will use the potassium then

 

[Adr_0]

Will use the potassium then

So while you're here... What are you trying to achieve?

 

[MHB]

I have used the Pureau a lot for paler beers to dilute my moderate water (eg 10L out of 30L) but what is your logic for using it with yeast, given there should be some trace Ca and Zn? Just because there's no chlorine and it's convenient or something else?

Its sterile - as is in IV grade sterile and completely free of any other chemicals, I have seen the seven step process they use.
So it is a blank slate, and yes if you want anything in it, you have to add it. One of the good quality yeast nutrients on the market will give the yeast everything it needs in terms of trace elements given that it is mostly autolysed yeast (soylent green for yeast) and a good supply of Nitrogen (DAP).
It is also convenient and reasonably inexpensive (well compared to setting up a modulab water supply) - also tastes great, I drink a lot more of it than I use for yeast.
Mark

 

[Adr_0]

Yeah it's great to have a 5L or 10L on the counter. I figured it must be packaged pretty close to sterile but wasn't aware of the process - I just assumed chlorine removal, UF, RO, deionise and pasteurise. Tastes great whatever they've done... I should use it for rehydration, should get my hands on some nutrient and should figure out my zinc levels. I generally use a Coopers lager tin in the fridge for making starters and rehydrate with dechlorinated tap water.

 

[garage_life]

Ascorbic acid is my choice.

In response to the original post, having chloramine in your reticulated water basically makes sure that there are no nasties picked up after it leaves the treatment plants.

So for health reasons, at least in terms of faecal coliforms or microbes, chlorine is good. But you absolutely must remove it before mashing otherwise your beer will have a horrible bite and smell to it - which you probably won't notice until it's pointed out to you.

I use ascorbic acid because it's basically instantly dissolved unlike a Campden tablet (which takes another step to crush - they are quite hard).

For each litre and each ppm of chloramine or chlorine you should add 4mg ascorbic acid. So for me, 2-3ppm and 30L requires about 300-400mg ascorbic acid. Sodium met requires a similar amount.

Good for scurvy too. Just another good reason to drink beer.

Asorbic acid is AKA citric acid if I remember reading food ingredients lists right?

 

[MHB]

Asorbic acid is AKA citric acid if I remember reading food ingredients lists right?

Not even close, Wikipedia is just a click away - I suggest you have a look at the two chemicals then you will "know" the difference
Ascorbic Acid, Citric Acid.
Mark

 

[garage_life]

Not even close, Wikipedia is just a click away - I suggest you have a look at the two chemicals then you will "know" the difference
Ascorbic Acid, Citric Acid.
Mark

Sorry, my bad! Vitamin C, I knew I'd looked it up before at some point