Water Profiles

[matti]

I never used to adjust my water. The last 6 brews I have added some 5.2 and have not noticed any difference. I admit that it hasn't been the most accurate comparisons. To be conclusive I need to brew identical beers and only adjust the water, and I havn't done that.

I have always been happy with my beers. My malty beers seem to be malty and the hoppy beers I have made have always been hoppy enough. Starting to make a few more lagers now and have even found them to be nice and balanced.

I am going to try and brew this weekend so I might give it a go. Beers might be even better

Kabooby

Using 5.2 in your mash it seems to me little point adjusting the brew water that going into the mash.
It's a bit like using acidulated malt and and 5.2.
a little bit of overkill IMHO.
Unless you are talking a bout the sparge liquor.
Which I believe should have the same profile as the mash liquor.

I am with Stu adjusting the water to beer style and have gone down PoMo's path many time.
A bit of that and a bit if this etc. etc.

Though my pasta sauces are better then my beers lately...

 

[the_fuzz]

when you guys are using Calcium Carbonate - what form is this in, where are you buying it from?

 

[gap]

when you guys are using Calcium Carbonate - what form is this in, where are you buying it from?

In powder form from your LHBS. Pat at Absolute Home Brew in St Marys has it as I bought some from him last week.

Regards

Graeme

 

[the_fuzz]

what would people consider more important
1) Mash PH at 5.2
or
2) Water profile i.e calcium content etc

 

[Stuster]

what would people consider more important
1) Mash PH at 5.2
or
2) Water profile i.e calcium content etc

Getting 2 right will lead to 1 (if you get it right .

 

[the_fuzz]

Getting 2 right will lead to 1 (if you get it right .

Sorry I shoud have clarified - If I just used 5.2 Stabiliser, which obviously will not affect calcium etc - or should I use the 5.2 and also up the calcium etc?

 

[gap]

Sorry I shoud have clarified - If I just used 5.2 Stabiliser, which obviously will not affect calcium etc - or should I use the 5.2 and also up the calcium etc?

Isn't 5.2 used if you cannot get your mash PH to the correct level. It is not a substitute for a mineral imbalance you may have in your water.

If you correctly dose your water with the mentioned minerals you may not need to use 5.2 stabiliser at all. Do you test your mash PH before using 5.2 or just throw it in?

Regards

Graeme

 

[the_fuzz]

Isn't 5.2 used if you cannot get your mash PH to the correct level. It is not a substitute for a mineral imbalance you may have in your water.

If you correctly dose your water with the mentioned minerals you may not need to use 5.2 stabiliser at all. Do you test your mash PH before using 5.2 or just throw it in?

Regards

Graeme

I haven't used 5.2 - bit of background - I've not just put down about 6-8 AG's and am now looking at the ph/water side of things. I got some PH strips (haven't used them yet) and got my local water report. Now I am just trying to understand the easiest way to get the "concentrations" correct.

Also, obviously you can tell that Chemistry is not my thing as I didn't even realise that by changing the calcium etc concentrations would affect PH - I thought they were separate things.........

 

[Stuster]

The changes to the water chemistry change the mash pH with gypsum and calcium chloride resulting in a lower pH, chalk raising the pH.

WRT the 5.2 stabilizer, it's really supposed to be for hard water. With the soft water we have in Sydney, it might not be exactly what you're after though I doubt it will actually do any harm. Have you read the chapter on water chemistry in How to Brew yet? It's a great read and should help you understand what's going on. The spreadsheet with it is a bit fiddly but really helps IMO.

 

[the_fuzz]

. Have you read the chapter on water chemistry in How to Brew yet? It's a great read and should help you understand what's going on. The spreadsheet with it is a bit fiddly but really helps IMO.

First thing I am doing when I get home - had a go of the spreadsheet, but was a bit lost

 

[crozdog]

First thing I am doing when I get home - had a go of the spreadsheet, but was a bit lost

WWWH,

I've been meaning to play with this spreadsheet http://byo.com/brewwater/VPB_Water_Witch.xls

It allows you to enter your water profile (Ok the one from Prospect) as well as the desired styles target values. Impit the recipe volume (in US gallons) & it will calculate the additions for you.

 

[the_fuzz]

exactly what I was after - appreciated, thanks

 

[the_fuzz]

ok,

Thanks for all the help so far. I went thrgh "how to brew" and now it is much more clear.

I have worked out that I need to either add 2.5 grams of Gypsum or 2 grams of chalk. I will go the Gypsum route, but in regards to the actual additions, do I add them to my water when heating or throw them into the mash at the begining once the grain and water are mixed - or is this not even relevant?

Also, where are people buying their Gypsum from?

 

[Jye]

I have worked out that I need to either add 2.5 grams of Gypsum or 2 grams of chalk.

I think you mean calcium chloride.

Add it to the mash. It will not dissolve in the HLT and will just sink to the bottom. You should also be able to get it from any good LHBS.

 

[the_fuzz]

I think you mean calcium chloride.

Add it to the mash. It will not dissolve in the HLT and will just sink to the bottom. You should also be able to get it from any good LHBS.

no, definately calcium carbonate or calcium sulfate - Chalk or Gypsum - the Chloride levels of the water in my area are good

 

[Stuster]

What Jye is trying to say is that gypsum and calcium chloride both do the same thing, lower the pH. Chalk will raise the pH. All will add calcium ions of course. The first two are good for lighter coloured beers, chalk for darker beers. A bit more chloride won't be an issue here (within reason) and help with malty beers. Gypsum for hoppier beers.

 

[Jye]

What Jye is trying to say is that gypsum and calcium chloride both do the same thing, lower the pH. Chalk will raise the pH. All will add calcium ions of course. The first two are good for lighter coloured beers, chalk for darker beers. A bit more chloride won't be an issue here (within reason) and help with malty beers. Gypsum for hoppier beers.

Yep, what Stu said

 

[the_fuzz]

What Jye is trying to say is that gypsum and calcium chloride both do the same thing, lower the pH. Chalk will raise the pH. All will add calcium ions of course. The first two are good for lighter coloured beers, chalk for darker beers. A bit more chloride won't be an issue here (within reason) and help with malty beers. Gypsum for hoppier beers.

Cheers Guys,

I misread - just re-read and yes, of course you guys are right - I missed the bit in "how to brew" where it mentions that it "raises PH" - not really anything important :huh:


Anyone know anyone in Sydney that sells Calcium Chloride or Calcium Sulfate?

 

[gap]

Cheers Guys,

I misread - just re-read and yes, of course you guys are right - I missed the bit in "how to brew" where it mentions that it "raises PH" - not really anything important :huh:


Anyone know anyone in Sydney that sells Calcium Chloride or Calcium Sulfate?

Your LHBS - I know Pat at Absolute Homebrew St Mary's stocks them.

 

[rich_lamb]

WWWH,
I thing the most important thing in mashing is getting the pH in the right ballpark. You can do this with minerals or a pre-packaged buffer like 5.2.
The minerals then go on to give you other advantages, like altering the hop character, malt flavour, good for yeast health, etc.

For my mind, it's better to learn a bit about the chemistry (never use it if you don't know what it does - you are more likely to do damage than good) and use the correct balance of minerals for your starting point and what you want to achieve. Using nothing is perfectly OK too. Start by using those pH strips and see what your situation is for a few different brews.
Calcium Chloride is probably the most useful one to start with - it's useful for just about everything..