Water Level For Crown Urn

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bullsneck

Malty tasking
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An area that I've struggled with over the 3 or 4 BIABs I've done has been determining a starting volume for mashing. I always seem to have a lot of wort left over.

Can someone assist me?

My next brew is to be 22L in the fermentor with roughly 6kgs of grain and a boil of 90mins.

Help is appreciated.

Thanks!!
 
Hi,

What I have done on my urn is mark 5L increments on the sight gauge. The number of mm for 5L was calculated by rearranging:

Volume = 5 Litres = pi * Radius^2 * Height
Where I measured R as 1.675dm (167.5mm) for the 40L Crown urn.

H turned out to be around 57mm. So grab your tape measure and, starting from where in the (internal) bottom of the urn starts, mark 57mm increments up the sight gauge with a black texta.
 
I was more after guidance on how much water is actually needed pre-mash, but your help
is very much appreciated.
 
Just a quick one..(with a disclaimer, I am not nor have I ever been a BIABer).
Looking at your sigs ABV's, and assuming that you would wish to keep in that range, 6kg of grain for 22 litres in fermentor is a bit on the high side given a reasonable efficiency.
Grab a brewing program, there a number of commercial models at bargain prices (BeerSmith, ProMash) and a heap of free-be types as well, or if you are worth 22cents an hour, write your own !
As I understand it BIAB involves mashing the grain in a bag in the total volume of water that would be used used for both mash and sparge (quouted I think in the 7:1 ballpark) so 6 kilos of grain needs 42 litres of water, grain floats so its volume will be less than 6 litres so a 50 litre boiler may suffice.
I guess what can help is if you explain just what your current liquor to grist ratios are.

K
 
I would start with 32L at strike temp if I was trying to achieve what you are.
 
BIAB in an urn has one very annoying aspect, which you are discovering for yourself. If you start with a small grain bill (say 4kg of pale malt and a kilo of rice) in 32L of liquor then when you hoist the bag - for those who haven't done it, rice seems to 'disappear' from the bag - the resulting spent grain 'ball' is quite light and the level of wort is "x"

Next brew you use 6kg of malt, spec malts etc in 32L of liquor and when you hoist the bag the grain ball is much bigger and heavier and even after a bit of squeezing it 'steals' more liquor out of the urn than the first brew did, and the level of wort is "y"

y is usually significantly lower down in the urn than x and if you are not careful you can end up with a couple of litres or worse of wort left over, which of course has lowered the gravity way off what you planned, or you can end up with not enough wort to fill your cube / fermenter etc.

Not being much of a mathematician, rather than bending my brain with calculating initial strike liquor level, I go from the other end and (I no chill in a 23 L cube) aim for around 24L after the boil - The Birko is quite good for loss to trub, usually only about a litre. The important thing is to recognise what is the 'right' wort level PRE BOIL that is going to give you that 25L - for a 60 min boil and also a 90 min boil.
After around 120 BIAB brews I can just eye it off and know, on my equipment, but I suppose I should get off bum and do some more accurate measurements and some calcs and maybe try to get some sort of table together and post it on the BIAB threads and the new BIAB forum as well.

I'm doing a heap of brewing for the comps this year so this would be a good project. Now for practical purposes, knowing what the wort level pre boil should look like, I can tweak by either boiling an extra 15 or 20 mins (too much wort) or just a kettle or two topup through the hop sock, doesn't do any harm to wash the hop products through a couple of times.
I reckon you should fairly quickly get on top of this, bullsneck but I know it can be a bit frustrating to start off with.
 
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