Temperature Controller Different

[blakie21]

Hi guys

Sorry I realise there are a few threads on temp controllers and I thought I had the wiring figured out after much reading (would be easy if it looked the same)

My temperature controller is different to others posted though. I have posted the image up. Needless to say I don't want to be messing around with 240v.

Most of the ones I have seen have the power going in on the left and heating/cooling on the right. I was going to do the same thing with this but it says 'power' on the terminals second from the left. Does anyone know which one is for the power in and which is for the cooling.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Cheers

 

[keifer33]

Judging from the picture dont wire it up the same as the STC1000 as it is different.

1-2 Is the switch as per the symbol (this will turn the power on and off to the fridge)

3-4 Is the mains power

5-6 Is....I cant read Chinese

7-8 is the NTC Sensor

If you arent confident dont wire it up as 240v is not to be underestimated.

 

[blakie21]

Ahh okay cheers. I was going to follow the STC-1000 guide but obviously with the different terminals.

I wont carry on unless someone else knows and can let me know if its okay. Anyone had experience with these? Someone linked me to them on ebay.

 

[blakie21]

http://helms-deep.cable.nu/~rwh/blog/?p=29

Looks similar to this one. Anyone confirm I can wire it up the same?

 

[np1962]

This controller is cooling only, not the STC-1000 most talked about on here.
Excuse my poor MSPaint skills but you should be able to follow the drawing.
As Keifer says if you are not 100% sure don't attempt it yourself.

 

[blakie21]

Appreciate the help guys.

While not a sparky the wiring makes some sense to me so I did go ahead and wire it up.

Seems to work so far but will test if it goes on/off with temperature soon.

Edit - would you guys recommend cutting holes or slits in the box to ventilate?

 

[Nick JD]

Edit - would you guys recommend cutting holes or slits in the box to ventilate?

I wouldn't. It will dissipate heat through the box (as long as the box isn't too small).

What you'll get if you cut vent holes in it ... is a colony of cockroachs living in it over winter.

 

[sama]

Appreciate the help guys.

While not a sparky the wiring makes some sense to me so I did go ahead and wire it up.

Seems to work so far but will test if it goes on/off with temperature soon.

Edit - would you guys recommend cutting holes or slits in the box to ventilate?

just drill a series of holes in the box youve mounted it in ( in a diamond pattern for ultimate sexiness)

 

[blakie21]

I wouldn't. It will dissipate heat through the box (as long as the box isn't too small).

What you'll get if you cut vent holes in it ... is a colony of cockroachs living in it over winter.

Haha okay cheers. The box isn't huge, about the same size as the link i posted above (http://helms-deep.cable.nu/~rwh/blog/?p=29)

 

[blakie21]

Seems to work perfectly .

Thanks for the wiring diagram Nige, triple checked with other diagrams too just incase (didnt doubt you, just not something you can 'try') .

 

[Malted]

This controller is cooling only, not the STC-1000 most talked about on here.
Excuse my poor MSPaint skills but you should be able to follow the drawing.
As Keifer says if you are not 100% sure don't attempt it yourself.

View attachment 49675

Ha ha attention ebay shoppers! Bare in mind this jobby is only rated for 5amps not 10amps. I made that mistake too... (note to self, check the fine details in the ebay ad before pressing the commit to buy button!) check the watts on what you intend to run from it.
It CAN do heating or Cooling, through the menu but can only do one at a time instead of both at will like the stc1000.
Great diagram from Nige, don't forget to join the earth from power in to the power out.

Here is a link to the 'manual for programming it: LINK to download manual in PDF

Ignore the two inputs with the Asian writing on them (5 &6) the manual says "The factory parameter settings of thermostat can be locked after a short circuit, the user can not modify."

Here is also a link to a previous AHB discussion of these devices: LINKY previous AHB discussion on these devices

 

[blakie21]

Ahh crap.. Thanks Malted, wouldn't have known any of that.

It has to run 140W (on the back of my freezer.) Doesnt mention amps... how do i work that out? Cheers

Edit - going back years.. V x I = Power?

so.. 140/240 = .58A ?

Edit - also just so u guys know I did run the ground through the input to the output socket.

Does anyone know if this will work / be safe?

 

[Malted]

Ahh crap..

It has to run 140W (on the back of my freezer.) Doesnt mention amps... how do i work that out? Cheers

Edit - going back years.. V x I = Power?

so.. 140/240 = .58A ?

Edit - also just so u guys know I did run the ground through the input to the output socket.

W = A X V or expressed as A x V = W
5amp x 240v = 1,200 watts

I checked the manual and it says it is actually 7amp rated for the relay contact current. That is 7 x 240 = 1,680 watts.
I suspect your fridge may be 1,400 watts? I run a bar fridge from the WH7016C temperature controller and it has not failed...

I am not a sparky and this advice does not constitute professional advice. You play, your risk.

 

[blakie21]

W = A X V or expressed as A x V = W
5amp x 240v = 1,200 watts

I checked the manual and it says it is actually 7amp rated for the relay contact current. That is 7 x 240 = 1,680 watts.
I suspect your fridge may be 1,400 watts? I run a bar fridge from the WH7016C temperature controller and it has not failed...

I am not a sparky and this advice does not constitute professional advice. You play, your risk.

Fair call, appreciate the advice anyway. Might ring a sparky mate.

It says 140W on the back of the freezer. Model doesnt come up in google.. it is a large chest freezer though..

Edit - says the fuse is 10A.. if that helps? Assuming that means it wont get above 10A because the fuse would blow anyway..

Anyone else with any advice or knowledge could you please let me know what you think.

 

[blakie21]

Okay seems I was stressing too much. If the back is correct - 140W will be 0.58 amps or around there. So should be perfectly fine.

Feel free to prove me wrong, I am not plugging it in until I know for sure

 

[Malted]

Fair call, appreciate the advice anyway. Might ring a sparky mate.

It says 140W on the back of the freezer. Model doesnt come up in google.. it is a large chest freezer though..

Edit - says the fuse is 10A.. if that helps? Assuming that means it wont get above 10A because the fuse would blow anyway..

Anyone else with any advice or knowledge could you please let me know what you think.

Let's look at it another way. An average light bulb can be 100 Watts... It would be a great freezer if the compressor only used about as much power as a lightbulb. 10A x 240 volts = a maximum of 2,400 Watts. In theory you could run 17 of your freezers on 10Amps. Even if the freezer is 1,400 watts, the temperature device is still good for 1,680 Watts (supposedly) at 7 watts (or 12 of your freezers).
Yeah ring the sparky mate.