Second Go @ Using Saflager W34/70

[griffo17]

G'day Everybody,

Been a while sine I've been a regular contributor to this forum, I've beem o/s for a while enjoying the best of Europe!

I put down a Brewmaster Munich Lager with Kit Convertor #60 (including Hallertau hops) and Saflager W34/70 yeast on Friday night (29/08), pitched at 14 which was proabably a tad high, but the fermenter has been on a solid 12 since.

there has been little or no airlock activity, but some other signs of fermentation are there. i.e. condensation under lid and what seems to be yeast cake forming.

I did a brew about 15 months ago (with the same yeast) and I remember the same thing happening, but the beer turned out pretty good anyway.

Do i have any cause for concern? I guess the lager yeasts take a bit longer normally anyway.

Thanks fpr your help.

Cheers (& Beers)

Griffo

p.s. I'll try and make a regular contribution!!!

 

[buttersd70]

There are a lot of reasons why you would be getting no airlock activity. But given that you have condensation under the lid, and can see the yeast cake forming, it's obviously not due to fermentation not starting, so sit back and don't stress.

Yes, lager yeasts are slower than ale due to the nature of the yeast and lower temps, and some have found 34/70 to be a little slower than many other lagers. But it produces good beer, so just be patient.

 

[Bribie G]

Made my premium pils (partial / extracts) last night and used W34-70. I started it first using my time honoured method (Well as Butters says there's many ways to skin a cat ):

sterilized pasta sauce jar
2 carb drops dissolved and boiled in water
a pinch of yeast nutrient

Cooled to about 20 degrees and agitated yeast in vigorously.

It was working away nicely within 2 hours with a dense little cauliflower head. Pitched it this morning as the wort had cooled and hoping to see some activity by tonight. It's probably a bit warmish to be doing a lager here as spring has arrived, and maybe should just have used a spare Morgans yeast, but lets see how it goes.

 

[OSF]

Hey Griffo,

Aside from all the standard "no airlock activity" things to look for, I have also found this yeast to be much slower than the ale yeasts (as most people here will advise).

I have used the Saflager W-34/70 quite a few times at a temp of around 9 - 12 degrees and each time I have given it about 3-weeks + or so to ferment (versus my Ales that are all pretty much done and dusted after a few days - at a significantly higher temp though).

Each time I have used this yeast I have pitched straight from the dry packet into the wort at the same temp (9 - 12 degrees).

Things I have noticed with this yeast:

It appears to take a while to get going compared to the Ale yeasts and looks like it is doing nothing when it is in fact fermenting.

It does not show the same kind of energetic visible activity that Ale yeasts do. I figure this is just what it does.

Each time usually about a week into the process I think the fermentation has stalled. I check the gravity readings, leave it a few days or so and sure enough it's still going ... and going ... and going.

I figure this yeast is just more of a slow and steady yeast that does its job in its own time and in one that is significantly longer than the Ale yeasts (esp given the lower temp). I have not had any bad results with this one used as above, so my advice is just leave it to do its thing and give it plenty of time. Don't be too keen to pull it out of the fermenter and when you think it's done, give it a few more days and check it again.

Cheers
OSF

P.S. I am putting an Ocktoberfest down this weekend and will be using the W-34/70 again for this.

 

[PostModern]

If pitching cold, use two packs. Many, many "why ain't it fermenting" threads would be obsolete if people just used enough yeast.

 

[sumo]

+1

I'm pretty sure the Fermentis (who make Saflager W34/70) website also advises increasing your yeast cell count if your pitch lower than 20C.

I begin using two packets for cold pitching and usually get active within 24 - 48 hours.

 

[Noxious]

A little off-topic but regardless, where have you guys been sourcing your W-34/70? Everywhere that used to supply it in my (ever-increasing) shopping area now say that the W-34/70 strain is no-longer being imported?!
If this is true, it would be a shame as I really enjoy this yeast over the S-23.
Always suspected something strange was going on as the packaging was never in the commercial-styled colourful packets as per the other Fermentis yeasts I have seen.
Where in Sydney can I find this strain?
Or are you guys using a bulk supply you have had for a while now...
Cheers everyone

 

[buttersd70]

+1

I'm pretty sure the Fermentis (who make Saflager W34/70) website also advises increasing your yeast cell count if your pitch lower than 20C.

I begin using two packets for cold pitching and usually get active within 24 - 48 hours.

They do advise increasing cell count for cold pitching, but its

80 to 120 g/hl for pitching at 12C 15C. Increase dosage for pitching below 12C, up to 200 to 300 g/hl at 9C.

easy to convert, but basically just under 2 packs for 12-15.

 

[PostModern]

They do advise increasing cell count for cold pitching, but its

easy to convert, but basically just under 2 packs for 12-15.

Take the middle of that and you get 100g/l or 1g/l. 11g in a pack 22g in a batch....

 

[buttersd70]

Take the middle of that and you get 100g/l or 1g/l. 11g in a pack 22g in a batch....

Of course, in practice. I was reffering to the minimum reccomended. I know I'm a cheap *******, but even I wouldn't save 2ish grams of yeast because it keeps me within manufacturers specs :lol:

 

[Bribie G]

A little off-topic but regardless, where have you guys been sourcing your W-34/70? Everywhere that used to supply it in my (ever-increasing) shopping area now say that the W-34/70 strain is no-longer being imported?!

I got mine from CraftBrewer:

http://www.craftbrewer.com.au/shop/details.asp?PID=668

They post to all areas. On the one hand paying around eight bucks for freight on an order is a PITA but at the same time I usually order enough hops, yeast, grains etc to keep me going for multiple brews so at the end of the day it maybe adds a dollar per brew and I'm building up a great hop / yeast / specialty grains library from the comfort of my computer chair so It's swings and roundabouts IMHO.

Edit: the link gives some good hints at reviving and pitching the yeast that may be of interest to the OP

 

[griffo17]

Thanks everyone,

Sorry, haven't been on for a while. The boss has put one of those bloody web blockers that blocks everything a man likes in life. Alcohol, gambling & sport!

BTW, the brew is going alogn slowly at it's 12 degrees. I hope to be bottling it by the end of the week.

I have no problem sourcing it from my LHBS either, although they ususally have lots of everything.

cheers (& beers)

Griffo