Screw Extractors - Any Advice?

[spog]

There is a reason why you pre drill into hardwood.
Def need to drill native cypress. Its good timber but cracks easly. Especially floor boards

For the same reason you mentioned in cypress.
If a pilot hole is not drilled the timber may split also screwing into hardwood without a pilot hole will cause the screw to over heat and snap,jamb and them strip then head.
With no pilot hole the screw is adding to the stresses in the timber and then causes splitting.
The pilot hole goes to the piece being screwed into and the clearance hole in the piece being held in place by the screw.

 

[Ducatiboy stu]

I little bit of bathroom soap on the screw also helps.

I had some extension done a few years back, about 100sq Mtrs. The inside was mixed hardwood tungue & grove, the outside was 50mm pencil edge hardwood decking.

Every single nail was pre-drilled, 2 nails every 450mm......

 

[manticle]

Helps having more than one cordless obviously. I think one of the main things that leads to 'short' cuts is having to change bits.

I've heard (not experienced) that soap can encourage corrosion so wax is better as it repels moisture. I've used wax and know it works well (and where I've used it, soap would be a no go - making crates and stillages for artwork - all materials need to be chemically stable). Not having a go - just curious if it's a known issue or if it's only an issue for exterior work or surfaces in contact with moisture.

 

[Grott]

Bet the beers went down well after a day of that. :drinks:

 

[Camo6]

I wouldn't place much faith in the linked extractors. The small screw extractors are handy for loosening a small tech screw from a metal thread but I wouldn't try it on a batten screw.
As above, vice grips/cutting a slot/welding a nut have worked for me in the past.
Probably not worth the expense Mardoo, but a stud extractor would probably work very well in that situation where there is an exposed area to grip on to.

 

[Ducatiboy stu]

Helps having more than one cordless obviously. I think one of the main things that leads to 'short' cuts is having to change bits.

I've heard (not experienced) that soap can encourage corrosion so wax is better as it repels moisture. I've used wax and know it works well (and where I've used it, soap would be a no go - making crates and stillages for artwork - all materials need to be chemically stable). Not having a go - just curious if it's a known issue or if it's only an issue for exterior work or surfaces in contact with moisture.

Depends on what the screw/nail is made of. If its stainless then it wouldnt matter

Normal bright nails will corrode over time anyway ( stains the timber black if outside ).

Not sure about the soap and corrosion. I guess if you used a soap that wasnt ph neutral then it I guess it may corrode faster...

 

[S.E]

Whatever you use to grip and turn it it will help if you give the screw a shot of WD 40 and/or give the head a few hard taps with a hammer first to loosen the grip.

Edit: Forgot to say, if using WD 40 apply it just before extracting the screw. Don’t leave it to soak as you would with a nut and bolt as the timber may expand and tighten on it.

 

[Mardoo]

I had some extension done a few years back, about 100sq Mtrs. The inside was mixed hardwood tungue & grove, the outside was 50mm pencil edge hardwood decking.

Every single nail was pre-drilled, 2 nails every 450mm......

Damn I love craftsmanship...

 

[spog]

Helps having more than one cordless obviously. I think one of the main things that leads to 'short' cuts is having to change bits.
I've heard (not experienced) that soap can encourage corrosion so wax is better as it repels moisture. I've used wax and know it works well (and where I've used it, soap would be a no go - making crates and stillages for artwork - all materials need to be chemically stable). Not having a go - just curious if it's a known issue or if it's only an issue for exterior work or surfaces in contact with moisture.

I wouldn't use soap for the possible reaction It will cause,also it will cause problems with paint and stain finishes.
The only issue with wax is possible melting then causing Issues as above , a bit on the screw point of the screw would be enough to get the job done

 

[Ducatiboy stu]

Thats right, Just a bit on the tip, same with nails. You dont need much. You dont want to liberaly coat the screw in thick soap

 

[wombil]

Hey mardoo,
If there is 15 mm of screw exposed this WILL work.and as se said a couple of whacks like driving a nail in will help too
Maybe you could borrow a small one.
Next time drill the piece being fixed slightly larger than the screw so it slides freely through it and drill the piece being screwed into smaller.
You probably got it fixed by now anyway.
Cheers.

 

[wide eyed and legless]

Batten screws are usually high tensile steel so you could have a problem using tap extractors if you can't drill into the screw, are you fixing the frame and legs together and are you screwing into the end grain of the timber?
A photo would be good Mardoo, or what if you took out the screws that have gone in fine and gently knock the timber apart then knock out the stripped screws with the hammer.