Recipe

[rude]

well I have been floundering so here goes 1st ag Brains welsh ale by Roy TWOC
grain bill
25 litres
Maris Otter 4.5 kg
Crystal Malt 300g
Rice Hulls 300g
Cane sugar 160g going to bar this bit.

Hop schedule
Fuggles %5 55g in boil
EK Goldings 20g 15min
Fuggles 10g 2 min

strike water

3 litres per kg say 20 litres
say 71c

Sparge Water

mashwater=20 litres. Less loss (6litres) =14litres
\
sparge water to collect 25 litres= 25litres less 14litres = 11litres

add Lauter Tun dead space =2 litres
Evaporation 15% = 4 litres
cooling loss = 4 litres
trub loss = 2 litres

Total sparge = 11+ 9 = 20 litres

Wyeast 1214

I am going to no chill in a jerry water bottle that holds 25.5 litres, so I am thinking with the heat & sucktion 25l will be full.
I told Roy I was going to no chill & he said fine just bring it down quick with ice to get a good cold break but it would still have chill hase ?
By the way I tried his welsh ale from the keg 4.2% low hoped a real quaffer would be really happy to brew it 1st up it was clear as, no hoofs.

Questions are on brew day I watched him brew this ale in the bucket of death but he only came up with 22litres (dont wont that for no chill ) do I or dont worry will be pitching as sooon as I can so no worries

No2 a lot of people leave the break & trub behind would my 2 litres be enough for this or should I just pour the lot in once cooled & then wrack after 3 to 4 days.

I have heaps more Questions but I think I will have a go see how I go cheers

 

[buttersd70]

Rude.
It's a bit hard to read your post, mate. Take a breath, and put some full stops in. If it's easier to read, its easier for us to help.

I'll actually start at the bottom and work my way up.
Yeast. I don't understand why you are using the 1214, which is a Belgian yeast. The grain bill, the hops, and the description, all show it to be an english Bitter. So use an English yeast, it will be so much better. The wyeast strain guide is here

With no chilling, some people seperate as much trub as they can, others just tip the lot in. There are pros and cons to both, and it is a bit of a debate, even among convinced no chillers. For those that do let all the trub into the cube, there is a further split amongst those who let it settle out, and leave it behind in the cube, and those that just pour the lot into the fermenter. So I'll just leave it up to you to decide, as everyone has their own individual take on it....

With the volume. If you can get the cube full, thats better. But if it is only a couple of litres of headspace (if you end up with 22L), its no major deal, just get out as much air as you can. You say you will pitching fairly shortly after making it, anyway, so it's definately a non- issue.

told Roy I was going to no chill & he said fine just bring it down quick with ice to get a good cold break but it would still have chill hase ?

It should be one, or the other, but not both. Either you chill, or no chill. Part of what makes no chilling work is the heat, which pasteurises the no chill vessel. If the wort is partially cooled, you won't get that effect.

Chill haze is caused by certain proteins, some of which (but not all) are precipitated out in cold break when chilling. Chilling the wort and getting good cold break is no guarantee that you will not have chill haze. If you are really concerned about chill haze, you could always treat the beer with polyclar.

Your water calculations are all over the shop, and need to be recalculated based on your actual equipment and loss to grain. The only losses relevant to the mash are the loss to grain, and the loss to deadspace. It's best if you let a programme do that for you, like beersmith, promash, or even brewsta. But in short, work out what water to grain ratio you want in the mash. Allow between 1.1 and 1.5L/kg for loss to grain, and whatever your deadspace is. Take the loss to grain, and the loss to deadspace from the water you started with, and this will give you a volume for your first runnings. You take this amount from the total volume of wort required, and that gives you the sparge amount. (because the grain has already absorbed the water, and the deadspace is already full. So if you sparge with 15L, your second runnings will be 15L.)

Your water temperature needs to be looked at, as well. you say 71C, but don't say if that is the strike temperature or the target temperature. If it is the target temperature, it is too high. If it is the strike temperature, it will (probably) be too low. For the target temperature, I would reccomend 67 or 68C for this beer. The strike temperature will need to be calculated based on grain weight and temperature (and preferably, the heat capacity of your tun). Let a programme calculate this for you, or do a google search for 'strike temperature calculator', there are many online ones.

The hopping is hard to comment on because you don't have AA or IBU required, but the weights for the last 2 additions look about right for an Ordinary or Best Bitter. Personally, I would change the last addition (or all 3) to EKG as well, or change to fuggle/fuggle/styrian golding. But this comes down to preference.

Cane sugar. I know that BJCP says that it is within style ( ), but personally I can't understand why you would use a cheap adjunct in a low gravity beer. I understand it's use in a belgian, that makes sense to me, but not in a low gravity beer such as a bitter. If you want a more attenuated finish, mash slighly lower.

Rice Hulls...These are used to aid lautering, they serve no other purpose. Given that you don't have any high protein grains in here (wheat, flaked barley, etc), and with it being a fairly low gravity beer (allowing for a higher water/grain ratio in the sparge), I don't really see why you would need them.

So, needs a bit of work, but I'll leave that up to you.

 

[Fourstar]

+1 for buttersd70's lengthy post.

Not going too technical on you, my ideas in a simple format.

- ditch the rice hulls, not needed. (I did a 65% American wheat on the weekend with no stuck sparges without rice hulls.)
- Go English yeast, s04 for dry or something like Wyeast 1099 Whitbread or ESB strain.
- HOPS ; 20IBU bittering (60min), 10IBU Flavour (15 min), 5 IBU Aroma (5 min) (or add at whirlpool/flameout would be my choice). Choice of hops: ekg, fuggles, anything English.
- Water, not going to bother, calculate you're approx losses, plug into beersmith/promash and let it do the work for you. You will work this out from a few batches, expect to be over or under with total vol post boil. It’s quite hard to get this right on you're 1st AG.

At the end of the day, brew it and have fun. It’s unlikely you will brew something unpalatable.

Cheers!

Edit; P1ss poor spelling

 

[rude]

Cheers lads . Sorry about the lack of punctuality.
I had a few when typing, got the yeast wrong it is an irish ale wyeast he used.
Mash temp was for 65c.
I will drop the rice hulls.
I just typed in what he gave us on the demo day.
Thanks for youre advice I have got pro mash so will punch in the deal for water vol.
Can I just mash then sparge or is it better to do a mashout ?

 

[mika]

When you planning to brew ? Might be able to drop round and 'supervise' for your first brew, if you like.

 

[rude]

Sounds like a very generous offer Mika cheers mate. I will let you know, probably in a couple of weeks time say a sunday or maybe some other time that suits you. No worries if you cant but some experience hand would be greatly appriciated. I havent got a mill yet so I have to get Roy to crush it the day before.

 

[mika]

Whenever Rude, ping us a PM and we'll drop round and cast an eye over everything. As long as you've got the grain the rest can be knife and forked on the day. If it all turns to $hit we can bring it back to my rig and you can be brewmaster.

 

[paulwin]

to get this back on topic
hi rude we are neighbours as i am the next suburb over .
if you need a hand with any thing don't hesitate to get in contact all grain is not as hard as it sounds you should be right on the day .
if mika can't make it i can drop over and guide you
cheers paul

 

[PostModern]

Edited out all the troll posts. Please try and be nice, at least in the beginners' forum, folks.

 

[Katherine]

to get this back on topic
hi rude we are neighbours as i am the next suburb over .
if you need a hand with any thing don't hesitate to get in contact all grain is not as hard as it sounds you should be right on the day .
if mika can't make it i can drop over and guide you
cheers paul

I can say he makes nice beer to... nice bloke also!

Good luck on brew day...Rude

Oh Paul the pot gets christened tommorow, (by us)... one more sleep, one more sleep to BREW DAY!!!!!

 

[paulwin]

I can say he makes nice beer to... nice bloke also!

Good luck on brew day...Rude

Oh Paul the pot gets christened tommorow, (by us)... one more sleep, one more sleep to BREW DAY!!!!!

hi katie good luck with the brew day tomorrow i wouldn't mind coming over and checking out this biab brewing
to see whats the process is.
cheers paul

 

[rude]

No worries paulbb very close mate & cheers Kattie cant wait to brew a nice beer I hate buying it because 1 its average & 2 its too dear for a decent beer. Roy is a good bloke youre right. I recon I'll be right but thanks for the offers still might take you up on help, I'll see how I go.

 

[Katherine]

hi katie good luck with the brew day tomorrow i wouldn't mind coming over and checking out this biab brewing
to see whats the process is.
cheers paul

Yeah what about two weeks time. Were in Coogee Spearwood not far from you. Ill PM you soon.