Recipe & Style Suggestions For My Very First Ag Brew?

[grinder]

G'day fellow beer nuts.

I have just aquired all the gear necessary to put down my first AG brew.

I have a dilemma though, I can't decide on what style of brew I want to make.

I want to keep it simple in case I completely buggar it up, To keep my losses down but I also want to make it a good one.

I am thinking more an ale rather than a lager but I enjoy lagers as well, esp Pilseners.

I don't mind a nice APA, Porter, Wheat, IPA or belgian Strong ale. Anything really

Any one with a good simple recipe let me know

All suggestions welcome

Cheers all
Grinder

 

[Batz]

What about an Alt,my recipe is in the recipe section and is a very simple one hop brew.
This is one of my regular brews.

Batz

 

[Duff]

Grinder,

A simple pale ale is the best way to start. This was what I started with, give it a go. I still remember the first taste of my first AG :beer: Instaed of a liquid yeast, this would taste fine with US56, S-04 or even Nottingham.

Cheers.

----------

04-02 Pale Ale

A ProMash Recipe Report

Recipe Specifics
----------------

Batch Size (L): 23.00 Wort Size (L): 23.00
Total Grain (kg): 4.60
Anticipated OG: 1.048 Plato: 11.85
Anticipated SRM: 6.2
Anticipated IBU: 33.9
Brewhouse Efficiency: 75 %
Wort Boil Time: 90 Minutes


Grain/Extract/Sugar

% Amount Name Origin Potential SRM
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
87.0 4.00 kg. JWM Traditional Ale Malt Australia 1.038 3
10.9 0.50 kg. JWM Wheat Malt Australia 1.040 2
2.2 0.10 kg. TF Crystal UK 1.034 74

Potential represented as SG per pound per gallon.


Hops

Amount Name Form Alpha IBU Boil Time
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
15.00 g. Pride of Ringwood Pellet 10.00 21.4 60 min.
35.00 g. Hallertauer Pellet 4.00 10.2 30 min.
20.00 g. Hallertauer Pellet 4.00 2.3 10 min.


Yeast
-----

White Labs WLP002 English Ale

 

[Ross]

Or if you prefer an APA, Jayses Skunkfart recipe (in the recipe section) is dead simple & it's a corker. :chug:

cheers Ross

 

[NRB]

Or you could try a porter as it will help to hide any potential faults (not that you'll have any!) I've found this recipe to be a ripper. It was the second AG I did, wasn't familiar with my system and ended up with a larger volume than expected. Obviously my OG was way down and the resultant beer was a 'light', but it was one of the tastiest light beers I've ever drunk.


NRB's Fuller's London Porter Clone

A ProMash Recipe Report

BJCP Style and Style Guidelines
-------------------------------

12-A Porter, Brown Porter

Min OG: 1.040 Max OG: 1.052
Min IBU: 18 Max IBU: 35
Min Clr: 52 Max Clr: 78 Color in EBC

Recipe Specifics
----------------

Batch Size (L): 23.50 Wort Size (L): 23.50
Total Grain (kg): 5.92
Anticipated OG: 1.053 Plato: 13.13
Anticipated EBC: 73.7
Anticipated IBU: 44.5
Brewhouse Efficiency: 70 %
Wort Boil Time: 90 Minutes

Pre-Boil Amounts
----------------

Evaporation Rate: 17.00 Percent Per Hour
Pre-Boil Wort Size: 31.54 L
Pre-Boil Gravity: 1.040 SG 9.89 Plato

Formulas Used
-------------

Brewhouse Efficiency and Predicted Gravity based on Method #1, Potential Used.
Final Gravity Calculation Based on Points.
Hard Value of Sucrose applied. Value for recipe: 46.2100 ppppg
% Yield Type used in Gravity Prediction: Fine Grind Dry Basis.

Color Formula Used: Morey
Hop IBU Formula Used: Rager

Additional Utilization Used For Plug Hops: 2 %
Additional Utilization Used For Pellet Hops: 10 %


Grain/Extract/Sugar

% Amount Name Origin Potential EBC
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
78.5 4.65 kg. Pale Ale Malt (2-row) Australia 37.00 5
9.5 0.56 kg. Crystal 60L America 34.00 158
6.0 0.35 kg. Brown Malt Great Britain 32.00 184
6.0 0.35 kg. JWM Chocolate Malt Australia 32.00 1008

Potential represented as Points per pound per gallon.


Hops

Amount Name Form Alpha IBU Boil Time
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
62.08 g. Goldings - E.K. Pellet 5.20 44.5 60 min.


Yeast
-----

WYeast 1335 British Ale II


Mash Schedule
-------------

Mash Type: Single Step

Grain kg: 5.92
Water Qts: 15.89 - Before Additional Infusions
Water L: 15.04 - Before Additional Infusions

L Water Per kg Grain: 2.54 - Before Additional Infusions

Saccharification Rest Temp : 68 Time: 90
Mash-out Rest Temp : 0 Time: 0
Sparge Temp : 0 Time: 0


Total Mash Volume L: 18.99 - Dough-In Infusion Only

All temperature measurements are degrees Celsius.

 

[grinder]

Or if you prefer an APA, Jayses Skunkfart recipe (in the recipe section) is dead simple & it's a corker. :chug:

cheers Ross

The skunkfart recipe seems a good choice. It is simple and sounds like a tasty one. I am a big fan of armarillo hops. But I'm not sure about the quantity of grain. I think I would like to make it slightly stronger. I might add an extra 500 gms of ale malt and wheat.
What do you think?

 

[randyrob]

The skunkfart recipe seems a good choice. It is simple and sounds like a tasty one. I am a big fan of armarillo hops. But I'm not sure about the quantity of grain. I think I would like to make it slightly stronger. I might add an extra 500 gms of ale malt and wheat.
What do you think?

i have found myself it is better to brew a recipe as is so that you know what it's supposed to taste like,
then alter it from there to suit your tastes especially the infamous "Skunk Fart" recipe.

the efficiency for that recipe is set to 72% i'd be aiming a little lower for your first brew just so you
don't get dissapointed. my first few batches were around the 60% mark. so i guess a little more base malt
won't hurt.

Rob.

 

[Steve]

Onya Grinder!

Ill put another vote up for the Skunk Fart (I make it often)....its a corker!
Cheers - have fun on your first AG
Steve

 

[grinder]

i have found myself it is better to brew a recipe as is so that you know what it's supposed to taste like,
then alter it from there to suit your tastes especially the infamous "Skunk Fart" recipe.

the efficiency for that recipe is set to 72% i'd be aiming a little lower for your first brew just so you
don't get dissapointed. my first few batches were around the 60% mark. so i guess a little more base malt
won't hurt.

Rob.

how can I maximise my efficiency?

 

[pint of lager]

For your first brew, I recommend an APA, IBU's 25, og around 1.045-1.050, mash temp 66 deg C. That way, if your efficiency is on the low side, which is very very common for newer brewers, the beer will still be within a style guidline and very drinkable.

While a porter or stout is often suggested as a first brew as it will cover many faults, you really want to know what, if any fault, you have with your brew.

A first brew is not the place to push the envelope. Don't try brewing out of style, a huge IBU beast or more than 10% wheat. There is plenty of time for that.

Use 2.5 litres of water to 1 kg of grain ratio. Any less and it is hard to stir. More is ok, but if you have to adjust temperatures, it is easier to adjust with a smaller volume. Some breweries use 4 litres per kg grain.

Keep a kettle of boiling (not simmering or getting close) water and a jug of cold on hand.

When you dough in, stir well for 5 minutes to allow the temperature of the grain and water to come to equilibrium, then take a reading. Learn how to take a reading with your thermometer. A stick thermometer should be immersed to the correct immersion line as shown on the thermometer (use the 0 deg line if you have no immersion mark) allowed to come to temp, this can take up to a minute. Gently move the thermometer around so that a cold thermometer is not causing a localised cool spot.

If you have to add some hot/cold water, stir it in really well before taking the next temp. If you are anywhere between 64-68 deg, don't fret too much. Some people spend the first 30 minutes trying to get to the right temp and end up with a huge mash that takes more and more boiling/cold water to have any affect on the temp.

Once you have reached your mash temp, put the lid on and walk away. You may wish to recheck after 30 minutes. The more you lift the lid, the more heat you will lose.

If you have never used a liquid yeast before, your first ag is not really the place to start. Use a good quality dried yeast.

Allow yourself plenty of time. Don't start brewing at 3pm and have a hot dinner date scheduled.

Keep good notes of grain temp, mash in water temp, volumes and settle/mash temp.

A stopwatch is a great addition to the brewgear. Allows you to accurately monitor mash time and hop boil times.

If you do have a hiccuph, try and have an experienced masher's mobile number for backup support.

All the best for your brew. It is really not that scary, the enzymes do the work.

 

[pint of lager]

Don't worry about trying to increase your efficiency for your first few brews. That comes later as part of fine tuning the whole process up.

Concentrate on getting the mash temp right and the sparge right.

Later, when you do want to increase efficiency, make sure your crush is fine enough. This is where most gains are made. Then, make sure your sparge is as efficient as possible without going below 1.008 in the run off. Some brands of grain give better efficiency than others. Correct mineralisation and pH also play a part.

 

[tangent]

Great advice from POL.
1 step at a time and great beer along the way

 

[randyrob]

Yes grinder don't fret to much about efficiency this early in the piece,

my first AG was 1030 so i just added some DME to bump it up a bit
although it was not a true AG it still tasted the business and was enough to keep me going!

although i havent tried the skunk fart posted in the recipe section
i can vouch for the first two in the original thread posted by jayse here:

http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum/inde...p?showtopic=970

the first is very basic only a few malts and the second is a monster of flavour and aroma.

it's got me thinkin now looking at the one in the recipe section

cascade and amarillo sure would compliment each other mmmmmmmmm.....

i'd better get mashin on that one and report back to you.

hey guys do u think i could sub :

"TF Pale Chocolate Malt" with "Joe White Chocolate Malt"

and

"TF Crystal" with "Joe White Crystal Grain (AUSTRALIAN) 120 EBC"

and it still turn out simular??????

if so i've got everything available and can get mashing

Thanks Rob.

p.s. soz for the slight hijack.

GOODLUCK GRINDER! REPORT BACK

Rob.

 

[grinder]

For your first brew, I recommend an APA, IBU's 25, og around 1.045-1.050, mash temp 66 deg C. That way, if your efficiency is on the low side, which is very very common for newer brewers, the beer will still be within a style guidline and very drinkable.

While a porter or stout is often suggested as a first brew as it will cover many faults, you really want to know what, if any fault, you have with your brew.

A first brew is not the place to push the envelope. Don't try brewing out of style, a huge IBU beast or more than 10% wheat. There is plenty of time for that.

Use 2.5 litres of water to 1 kg of grain ratio. Any less and it is hard to stir. More is ok, but if you have to adjust temperatures, it is easier to adjust with a smaller volume. Some breweries use 4 litres per kg grain.

Keep a kettle of boiling (not simmering or getting close) water and a jug of cold on hand.

When you dough in, stir well for 5 minutes to allow the temperature of the grain and water to come to equilibrium, then take a reading. Learn how to take a reading with your thermometer. A stick thermometer should be immersed to the correct immersion line as shown on the thermometer (use the 0 deg line if you have no immersion mark) allowed to come to temp, this can take up to a minute. Gently move the thermometer around so that a cold thermometer is not causing a localised cool spot.

If you have to add some hot/cold water, stir it in really well before taking the next temp. If you are anywhere between 64-68 deg, don't fret too much. Some people spend the first 30 minutes trying to get to the right temp and end up with a huge mash that takes more and more boiling/cold water to have any affect on the temp.

Once you have reached your mash temp, put the lid on and walk away. You may wish to recheck after 30 minutes. The more you lift the lid, the more heat you will lose.

If you have never used a liquid yeast before, your first ag is not really the place to start. Use a good quality dried yeast.

Allow yourself plenty of time. Don't start brewing at 3pm and have a hot dinner date scheduled.

Keep good notes of grain temp, mash in water temp, volumes and settle/mash temp.

A stopwatch is a great addition to the brewgear. Allows you to accurately monitor mash time and hop boil times.

If you do have a hiccuph, try and have an experienced masher's mobile number for backup support.

All the best for your brew. It is really not that scary, the enzymes do the work.

If I am to end up with a fermenting volume of 23 litres. What volume will I need to to start my boil with for 60 minute boil time?

 

[tangent]

around 10% is lost in the boil

my first AG was 1030 so i just added some DME to bump it up a bit

then it's a partial, not an AG

 

[randyrob]

then it's a partial, not an AG

that works for me!

my second AG got an infection, does that mean it wasnt an AG either becasue it wasn't just grain/hops?

my third AG was SFPA, it turned out so good it spent less time in the keg than it did in primary.

Rob.

go the SFPA you won't regret it :super:

 

[randyrob]

around 10% is lost in the boil

i find if i run a hard boil i loose 20% in the boil, plus 1 Litre to trub and some more through cooling
so every system is different.

get yourself a good brewing program (i use promash) there is a post here with some free programs listed.
spend some time putting in figures from your system. it will take a few brews before you get used to your system.

Rob.

 

[tangent]

yep, 10% is only a starting guide
more with a NASA

 

[Pumpy]

G'day fellow beer nuts.

I have just aquired all the gear necessary to put down my first AG brew.

I have a dilemma though, I can't decide on what style of brew I want to make.

I want to keep it simple in case I completely buggar it up, To keep my losses down but I also want to make it a good one.

I am thinking more an ale rather than a lager but I enjoy lagers as well, esp Pilseners.

I don't mind a nice APA, Porter, Wheat, IPA or belgian Strong ale. Anything really

Any one with a good simple recipe let me know

All suggestions welcome

Cheers all
Grinder

Grinder ,

My suggestion is a simple Brown ale you will find it is a really drinkable beer nothing fancy

this is a mans drink none of those wussy types of beer some brew you will be proud of it and it clears nicely

You easily drop out the last hop addition if you wish

Original Gravity: 1.060
Final Gravity: 1.016
Alcohol content: 5.72%
Method: All Grain
Efficiency: 75%
Total IBU (Bitterness): 22.7
EBC (color): 31





Ingredients: (portions for a 40 L batch)
8.695 kg JWM Traditional Ale Malt
0.435 kg JWM Crystal 140
0.348 kg Brown Sugar (dark)
0.174 kg JWM Wheat Malt
0.25kg TF Pale Chocolate Malt
0.052 kg JWM Roast Barley
21 g Goldings, East Kent (Pellets, 5 AA%, 60 mins)
21 g Fuggles (Pellets, 5 AA%, 60 mins)
21 g Fuggles (Pellets, 5 AA%, 20 mins)
21 g Goldings, East Kent (Pellets, 5 AA%, 20 mins)
21 g Fuggles (Pellets, 5 AA%, 1 mins)
21 g Goldings, East Kent (Pellets, 5 AA%, 1 mins)
30 ml DCL Yeast S-04 - SafAle English Ale
4 tsp Gypsum
1 g Irish Moss
90 min mash @ 66C 90 min Boil .Dumped onto a yeastcake to give a good start fermented at 14-15C.



Pumpy

 

[Tony]

I am drinking a schooner od pumpys brown ale right now.

I didnt put the brown sugar in though....... i forgot it

Its a nice malty beer that goes down easy

I will say keep it simple with a 1 malt brew, just chuck in 100 % ale malt and hop it with what ever takes your fancy. American, english, POR, it doesnt matter.

The thing with your first AG is getting over all those........oooooo will it work out....... nerves ans insecurities.

cheers