Newb Kegerator Build

[freezkat]

The box I just picked up is an :

GE early 1970's vintage

300 cubic Liter

perfectly flat bottom

manual defrost

condenser coils on back

Energy audit says this fridge costs $26/year to operate

single front door w/ a thin aluminum (dimpled texture) freezer box area inside. It has that flimsy plastic door to denote the area known as the "freezer". The evaporator coil is incorporated into the bottom of the aluminum freezer-box.


Question...
I am very certain there is nothing in the side walls. The 2% that I am not sure is scaring the crap out of me. Should I do the corn starch trick on this thing to be sure.

Is there vermiculite insulation in the walls, fiberglass, foam?

Any experience with this era of refrigerators?

 

[freezkat]

here'S A pic of the real thing. The most recent version is
TAX10SNXLAD

 

[freezkat]

I was able to take some pics and do some research. I shoved a stick in the side after removing a trim piece. on either side of the "mineral wool" insulation i found no coils or anything....friggin' awesome! I can get 3 flavors inside without cutting all the door storage apart.



This is so old it has porcelain enamel metal interior panels

 

[freezkat]

That was super easy drilling.

Should I silicone the shanks in place so they don't twist?

The fiberglass-mineral wool insulation got pushed aside . Should I spray some foam insulation in the hole then re-drill to fill in the gaps?

At some point I will install a manifold and add a couple more taps. For now I can run the CO2 inside

 

[Logman]

On my old fridge, rather than stick the shanks in, I got a piece of strong plastic big enough for two taps to distribute the pressure so that the nuts could be done up tight. If your fridge sh*ts itself you can pull it apart easily that way. Easy to rip it out for a clean too.

 

[freezkat]

\Being able to clean the parts easily...hmmmmm? That might be a good idea. (note sarcasm that should be aimed at me for not thinking of that before)

I have a big chunk of plexi that will work perfectly

cheers
bob

 

[stux]

I always just use some wooden board as a backing board. Generally big enough for two shanks and then you can bolt it down proper.

I also use telecom conduit to make some separators which go around the shanks to stop you from collapsing the door as you tighten. Just take a shank to bunnings and buy the best fit

 

[freezkat]

I just figured out my Micromatic commercial tap has 8mm (5/16")gas line and 4.75mm (3/16") beer line.

Should I just replace the lines?

What size? I have disconnects with barbs for 6mm (1/4") line. Is that big enough?

 

[Logman]

4.75 inner diameter is better than 6 for the beer line - you can work the line on to the barb by submerging it in boiling water.

 

[freezkat]

4.75 inner diameter is better than 6 for the beer line - you can work the line on to the barb by submerging it in boiling water.

should I use 4.75 for the gas side? Also, I have heard that I am supposed to have a 'Balanced' system. Does that meant equal length and diameter of hose on both sides of the keg?

I appreciate the help greatly

cheers again
bob

 

[jbowers]

should I use 4.75 for the gas side? Also, I have heard that I am supposed to have a 'Balanced' system. Does that meant equal length and diameter of hose on both sides of the keg?

I appreciate the help greatly

cheers again
bob

No, it refers to the pressure you have coming from the CO2 vs the resistance achieved through diameter and length of the beer out line. Do some searching about balancing kegs for more specific info.

 

[freezkat]

No, it refers to the pressure you have coming from the CO2 vs the resistance achieved through diameter and length of the beer out line. Do some searching about balancing kegs for more specific info.

I have a commercial tap set-up now. The CO2 barb fitting on the tank end is too big for 4.75mm line.

I was thinking of leaving the commercial tap alone. How would I split the gas line to 2 different size hoses?

I have one of these. What do I do with it?

 

[stux]

I have a commercial tap set-up now. The CO2 barb fitting on the tank end is too big for 4.75mm line.

I was thinking of leaving the commercial tap alone. How would I split the gas line to 2 different size hoses?

I have one of these. What do I do with it?

Looks like a six way mfl gas splitter to me. Get some JG fittings for it and you can use it to split the gas lines.

 

[Logman]

The CO2 barb fitting on the tank end is too big for 4.75mm line.

Doesn't matter what size for the gas line, as long as it won't leak. Something like this might be the cheapest way out.

 

[freezkat]

Here is my commercial micromatic regulator with a shut-off.

 

[Logman]

Looks like you'll need a line reducer of some sort, then apply a splitter after that.

Not 100% sure, but I think you would end up spending more setting up that other fitting in the previous photo - unless there seems to be more bits and pieces for it. Does each individual line have an on/off on that thing?

 

[stux]

Not 100% sure, but I think you would end up spending more setting up that other fitting in the previous photo - unless there seems to be more bits and pieces for it. Does each individual line have an on/off on that thing?

Yes, from craftbrewer the MFL adapters will cost about 7$ each, where as a T or Y splitter will cost just 9$

you'd need at least 6 of the MFL adapters, and a solution for the other fitting... and possibly have to block them as well!

where as you could get six lines with just five of the splitters... which means only an extra 3$

and if you need less than six lines... just get as many splitters as you need

 

[Malted]

Here is my commercial micromatic regulator with a shut-off.

Do you reckon there is an amateur version?

 

[freezkat]

Do you reckon there is an amateur version?

Hang on...I need a beer with that grill. I'm parched...very dry. I knew somebody would say something about that.

I'm just saying I'll leave the store bought beer American sanke-D ball-tap setup alone.

How do you setup for force carbing? I was thinking of getting a regulator just for that.

I also make root beer. Wouldn't I need a different pressure for that too?

 

[hsb]

So many questions!!

Force carbing is a one-off thing. Disconnect other kegs, crank up the one being force carb'd etc...
Have a look here:
http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum/inde...showtopic=10667

Running one keg at a higher pressure means you need a Dual Regulator (a regulator capable of putting out two gas lines at different pressures)
A second regulator would mean 2 x Co2 sources, it'd be cheaper to source a dual regulator. Or to carb the root beer separately/using natural carbonation, then just connect to serve/disconnect.
I have no idea on carb level for root beer. WTH is root beer anyway, beetroot beer? rooting beer?