Natural Carb In Keg After Ccing?

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iralosavic

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I have to naturally carb my cornelius kegs for now, as all I have is a 16g style keg charger.

I've got a Coopers Canadian Blonde in primary at the moment. I plan on giving it a week or two in secondary (glass carboy) at 1c. Then I'm going to mix up a bulk priming solution, put it in the bottom of the cornelius keg ready to rack. So the temperature of the beer will be close to 1c when racking.



Will I need to raise the temperature again to get the priming sugar and whatever yeast is left in suspension to react enough to carbonate the whole keg adequately?
 
I have to naturally carb my cornelius kegs for now, as all I have is a 16g style keg charger.

I've got a Coopers Canadian Blonde in primary at the moment. I plan on giving it a week or two in secondary (glass carboy) at 1c. Then I'm going to mix up a bulk priming solution, put it in the bottom of the cornelius keg ready to rack. So the temperature of the beer will be close to 1c when racking.



Will I need to raise the temperature again to get the priming sugar and whatever yeast is left in suspension to react enough to carbonate the whole keg adequately?

1. Do you know why you're leaving your beer in secondary for a week or two at 1c?
if not, do some reading!

2. Do you know why you ferment at certain temperatures for Lagers and Ales?
If not, do some reading!

3. Answer questions 1 & 2 and you'll answer your own question on if you need to raise the temp of your keg to naturally carbonate your beer.

Hint: what effect does temperature have on yeast activity?

BF
 
1. Do you know why you're leaving your beer in secondary for a week or two at 1c?
if not, do some reading!

2. Do you know why you ferment at certain temperatures for Lagers and Ales?
If not, do some reading!

3. Answer questions 1 & 2 and you'll answer your own question on if you need to raise the temp of your keg to naturally carbonate your beer.

Hint: what effect does temperature have on yeast activity?

BF

1. To clear up the beer and improve its taste by dropping most of the yeast out of suspension.
2. The yeast are the most active at certain temperatures, which vary from strand to strand
3. My thoughts were that you would definitely need to re-raise the temperature, especially with an ale yeast, however, I have had people tell me not to bother, because you will undo the purpose of cold conditioning and that it will work either way. Your rhetoric leads me to believe that your opinion is to increase the temperature. Given that I'd prefer slightly cloudy beer with good carbonation to a crystal clear cordial, I think I'll go with raising the temp.


Did I pass? :D
 
Something MHB showed me years ago and still "Need" to buy/make
Was a pressure regulator that you can fit up to a quick connect and set it at your carb pressure... allows you to ferment in the corny or at least secondary it and carb up at the same time loved this idea

Damn shame CCing and Force carbing is so easy ... reminds me i gotta get my gas filled

Tom
 
1. To clear up the beer and improve its taste by dropping most of the yeast out of suspension.
2. The yeast are the most active at certain temperatures, which vary from strand to strand
3. My thoughts were that you would definitely need to re-raise the temperature, especially with an ale yeast, however, I have had people tell me not to bother, because you will undo the purpose of cold conditioning and that it will work either way. Your rhetoric leads me to believe that your opinion is to increase the temperature. Given that I'd prefer slightly cloudy beer with good carbonation to a crystal clear cordial, I think I'll go with raising the temp.


Did I pass? :D

OK, so you already know the answer to your original question.

Tell those 'people' to go **** themselves with a rusty squid jag because you'll be waiting months, possibly years for your kegged ales to carb up at temps under 10c.
If anything, because you're naturally carbing, I would be ******* the CC'ing off and just racking it into the kegs.
It'll CC in the keg after it carbs.
Depending on how long you leave it after it's conditioned, first couple of pints will be murkey, after that, you're good to go.

BF
 
I'm inexperienced and I like to be 100% before I do things. I tend to second guess myself when someone contradicts me, albeit with a view that abandons logic.

So, how does this plan of attack look:

rack from primary straight into a keg that has the bulk priming solution in it, gently stir, then bleed the headspace and pressurise with my keg charger. Then pop back in the fermenting fridge at 20c for a week, then refrigerate for a week prior to serving.
 
I'm inexperienced and I like to be 100% before I do things. I tend to second guess myself when someone contradicts me, albeit with a view that abandons logic.

Stop abandoning logic, making beer isn't rocket science.

So, how does this plan of attack look:

rack from primary straight into a keg that has the bulk priming solution in it, gently stir, then bleed the headspace and pressurise with my keg charger. Then pop back in the fermenting fridge at 20c for a week, then refrigerate for a week prior to serving.

That'll work.

Remember you only need half the priming sugar you would use for bottles.


BF
 
Stop abandoning logic, making beer isn't rocket science.



That'll work.

Remember you only need half the priming sugar you would use for bottles.


BF

Roger that. I'm using the bulk priming calculator that is linked with this forum. Just going for 2.8 c02, which for 17L works out at about 120g, so I'll use 60g.

Hopefully my common sense is enough to successfully burp and pressurise the keg with the keg charger, which I've never used before. I can't say I'm not looking forward to getting a propper co2 rig so I can just force carbonate. Shooting steriliser through the dip tube and beer lines would be handy too.
 
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