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Borrets is a work of art :) mine is just boring compared to it :(

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I haven't used mine yet but can't wait :)
Very sexy Borret !!DCP_0566.JPGDCP_0570.JPGDCP_0563.JPG
 
Borret said:
Back to the original topic of Pimping Ones Chiller

whaat? I was pimping my chiller :)
 
Hey Doogiechap, did you use another piece of pvc with end caps in the middle of the coils, so that more of the water is forced over the coils?
 
Good point Jye,
I haven't 'glued' it together yet so I will look at putting something extra in the middle to reduce the volume of water bypassing the coils. I do have a tube going up the middle to get the cool water to the opposite end (both hose connections are at one end for neatness of plumbing :) )
Cheers
Doug
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Ray_Mills said:
Hi
Why have one in the first place
Why waste all the water and add more time to your brew day
Empty the wort in a drum like an ESB work kit 15 min after the boil
Hang on to the wort for as long as you like
When your yeast is ready
pitch the wort and yeast in your fermenter and away you go
Works every time
make bigger batches then get a bigger drum or use 2 20 drums
Cheers
Ray
[post="114542"][/post]​

Hey Ray would it keep a week at room temp in one of those containers do you have to get all the air out ,

may give it a try tommorrow

Pumpy
 
Pic of Trev at the Braidwood brewery washing the hot wort containers down ,some of the guys I remember saying they pitched the yeast a week later
.

Rays idea in action

Pumpy
 
Very interesting and thought provoking post here by Ray. I recently did a batch and dumped the whole lot, all break material included, into the fermenter after first fishing out most of the hops flowers. I posted this on OzCB asking opinions about how it would turn out and got one "No worries" and one "crap". It has turned out fine so far (my brewing mate and I drank a liter of it at racking, so it can't be too bad!)

So taking away one more sacred cow, rapid chilling, and it does significantly simplify the process. I am without a wort chiller too and immersed the pots (split boil) in a bath tub for chilling.

The conventional wisdom is that rapid chilling helps with cold break formation (probably not a make or break issue, pardon the pun), quickly gets the wort away from the bacteria-heaven temperature range of 25-40 degrees (can be overcome with good sanitation), and, what always made it essential for me, minimizes diacetyl formation.

So, what is it with the diacetyl thing then? Knock that on the head and I could be almost convinced to RDWAHAHB

Edit: somehow I missed the entire second page of this thread B4 posting ... anyway, still keen to know about the diacetyl issue.
 
im guilty of thread diversion here so to save the original content of ducatiboy stus post i reckon we should start another thread in regard to chilling without water.its a new topic that is moving the original post a bit and there is obviously a fair bit of interest.

cheers
big d.
 
The great thing about Rays "No Chill method " is that

1) you can mash anytime that is convienient to you

2) ferment when your fermentation fridge is not tied up with a brew

Pumpy
 
I ended up pitching my yeast for the Braidwood brew two weeks after. No worries at all.

When I ended up bottling, some people had already finished theirs!!!

Still got some left, too.
 
This thread has been totally hijacked - Can a mod please split it? - both good threads.... :)

cheers Ross
 
Mine's pretty boring by comparison.

One thing that has helped me is to put a couple of valves on the frame. Saves me running down the yard to turn the tap on and off in a hurry if there's anything wrong. I use a couple of easy hookers to link up to the chiller. No leaks or hoses bursting over the boiler/wort this way. :beerbang:

Warren -

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Here is mine... does the job well.

With Ray's comments... I didn't ferment my Braidwood Ale until a month after, it turned out fine.

I also use a chiller because I want to ferment it asap, that way I can drink it sooner :chug:

I use all of the post chiller water for cleaning my gear. Eg: First collections go into the fermenter & mash tun, the rest goes into a bucket(s). Add the cleaning agents and let them soak while I prepare the next stages.

The water was going to be used to clean my gear anyway, may as well use it to cool my wort, and the wort to heat my water.

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warrenlw63 said:
One thing that has helped me is to put a couple of valves on the frame. Saves me running down the yard to turn the tap on and off in a hurry if there's anything wrong.
[post="114800"][/post]​


Hi Warren

I do a similar thing. I use a CFC and run a hose from a tap to the CFC, which connects with standard garden QD's. About 50 cms from the connection to the CFC I added an in-line valve. This way I can control the flow rate of the chillier water while standing next to it. If wasting water wasn't an issue I would just open the valve right up and let it run fast as possible, but I try and balance the chilling with the amount of water being used.

The main benefit will come when I eventually install an inline thermometer on the outlet of the CFC and use a pond pump to pump pre-chilled water from jerry cans. Being able to stand next to the whole thing and adjust the chilling water flow rate to match the desired wort temp would be nice. Although I might just adopt the no chiller method!

Cheers
MAH
 
MAH

The ice slurry and metho method works particularly well with an immersion chiller when the temp's at about 25c from tap water. :) I've been able to get my wort to lager pitching temps in winter (about 14c) in about 30-45 minutes with recirculation.

Note that it's still not a perfect world in the summer months. Main problem is my tap water will only get the wort to say 30c in hot weather. Using the ice recirculation from this temperature always seems to create a bit of a losing battle. With persistence I can get it as low as 17-18c. Good for Ales OTOH it's why I don't bother with lagers in summer. :)

Not overly cluey with CFCs. However I'd say you'd need quite a bit of ice to be able to cool wort with it exclusively. Certainly worth looking into though. That said for 23 litre batches I couldn't see it being a problem. :beerbang:

Warren -
 
This Post Spawned the 'No Chiller method' for mor information continue to the post 'No chiller method'

pumpy
 
This is my counter flow chiller. I swear these things are bloody gods at cooling, cant love them enough!!! :D 9m of copper coil with garden hose sleeve.

I leave my wort to settle for 15mins after the boil. My kettle is well insulated so it stays in the 90'c-100'c range. I sanitize me chiller and hook up the cold intake hose to the grey fitting shown. Switch on the stock tap water, hook a clear pvc hose to the bottom drain on my kettle onto the hot wort inlet. Fit a drain hose to the outlet at the top of my chiller and switch her on.

Chills bloody hot wort down to 14'c in winter and approx 20'c in summer all in under 30mins for a 23L batch. The cold break settles out very well. :beerbang:

Made it for under $50 too....

Happy chillin,

Mudsta :ph34r:

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Here's mine,
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4 inch 316 stainless, with triple 1/4 inch copper coils (just under 15 metres in total) inside. the coils are merged using a freeflow manifold I designed for it. I split the wort flow to increase the surface area, because I wanted to be able to contain it all in as small a package as I could 450mm long x 100mm diameter.

It will chill my 55 litre batches to pitching temp in 20-30 minutes or so. I think that the extra step taken in chilling the wort is worth it to be able to pitch immediately. In the time it takes to chill the wort, it's also aerating the wort really well (which is an added bonus), and in the mean time I'm getting most of the clean up out of the way, feeding the spent grain to the goat & chooks etc. I save my cooling water, my brewstand has a water filter tucked into the plumbing underneath so it's all good drinking water.
I just wish that I was on tank water, because if I was I would take advantage of the brilliant idea someone (not me) piped up with recently, and run my wort through coils inside the main water tanks ( or recirculate water from water tank back to water tank. Can't remember which way it went but it doesn't really matter does it, either would work.)

And the whole kit

Brewboy Page
 

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