Markws Brew Stand Build

[pcmfisher]

I really hope you have earthed that element in your HLT

Also make sure you do the same with your aluminium box.....

Be safe

 

[cdbrown]

I really hope you have earthed that element in your HLT

Also make sure you do the same with your aluminium box.....

Be safe

Would you recommend soldering an earth wire to the rear of the element or to the housing?

 

[pcmfisher]

It doesn't look like the element has an earth connection.
You can earth it anywhere as long as its connected to the metal of the pot.
Tec screw an earth wire to the bottom flange of the keg would work.

 

[markws]

pcmfisher,

The electrical connections for the heating element and all electrical work has been performed by a registered electrican. The SS cap covering the heating element contains the appropriate earthing.

 

[pcmfisher]

No worries, just couldn't see it from your pics.

 

[davo002]

Dear All,

A little more progress made in last 1.5 weeks.

All the kegs are now polished and leak tested (pic attached) A third XU1 died during this process, I have certainly come the realisation in respect to angle grinders - you get what you pay for. No more XU1 gear for me!

Today the casters and square inserts arrived. I was completely disappointed with the range of casters available at Bunnings. After surfing the internet (specifically Ebay), I inadvertantly came across a VIC retail/distibutor. Phoned up on Monday - in my hand today! Perfect! I decided to go for castor rated to 100kg each with wheel and directional locks.

Burners. As previously mentioned, after a reasonable amount of research I have decided to use 2 x mongolian 10 burners for powering both the mash tun and kettle. This was based on comments most people seemed to require to plug up a couple of ports on larger mongolian burners and also I wanted the option to be able to convert to LNG (as a future upgrade). This is also aligned with Lonnie Mac's thinking for th Brutus Ten. Big Tip. If you are looking to buy this product now, expected to do a fair amount of talking on the phone, because the importer is not expecting the cargo container to arrive for another couple of weeks and most retailers are waiting for stock. So, after a couple of days I finally located a VIC retailer that had the product in stock. So today the burners arrived with a low pressure regulator and 3/8 to 1/2" brass adaptors. (Pic of the wheels and burners attached)

Still not arrived is a 'care package' from a gas parts retailer containing the automatic gas shut off valves, pilot lights and thermocouples. I am expecting this (hopefully) prior to the end of the week.

This will then allow me to double check the correct distance to set the bottom rail to ensure the tip of gas burner flame is approx 2.5" away from the base of the mash tun/kettle. I then plan to hire a metal cut off drop saw to prepare the lengths of square tube.

Lastly;

I was bored during the weekend and decided to assemble the connector that will be used to measure the temperature of the liquid during various stages of the brewing process, such as cooling the boild wort while recirculating through a plater chiller or during the mash. This is direct copy of Lonnie Mac's design for the brutus ten but bling enhanced, being all SS. (Fittings/Components, female threaded camlock, T piece, 50mm exterior insert thermowell, and threaded male camlock). I like this concept of being able to incorporate a temperature sensor where you feel is appropriate to your brewing needs.

And..I still have not purchased a gas solenoid and it appears I will have to bite the bullet and pack a packet for shipping. Not happy jan! And, have to decide how and where i will mount the temp controllers/switches.

Cheers

MWS

Very informative thanks, where did you buy the burners and casters and how much were they?

 

[markws]

Very informative thanks, where did you buy the burners and casters and how much were they?

Davo - casters are from dandenong casters in vic $120 total. Burners too came from vic - sorry can't remember off the top of my head the group or cost. I just googled mongolian burner + Australia.

MWS

 

[unrealeous]

Davo - casters are from dandenong casters in vic $120 total. Burners too came from vic - sorry can't remember off the top of my head the group or cost. I just googled mongolian burner + Australia.

MWS

Bunnings aint so bad - I'm using casters rated at 40kg each - slotted straight in to my brew rig - about $24 bucks for the lot. Its not like you move your brew rig around when all vessels are full - and you won't have them all full at the same time.

 

[markws]

I decided to take the day off to really push ahead with the brewstand. I was not sure how far I would get, so the plan was to complete all the major welding including mounting the cross bars for each keg. However, luck being on my side, all the major welding has been completed (excluding the cross bars for the two burners), the mount for the pump is on, the plastic blocks for the castors are in and the frame had its 'semi' first coat. I have decided to paint the top 1/4 in 'white knight' hi temp aluminum/silver and the bottom 3/4 white knight hammer tone silver. The thinking hear is to reduce the amount of paint peel while in operation by using a ~550 degree heat resistant product and the hammer tone to aid in hiding the 'professional welding' i have done! Importantly I want to get a thin coat on to prevent any surface rust and can see two to three coats will be required.

Additionally i have mounted the compression elbow on the HLT for the site glass and also mounted in mash and boil kettle a socket at the top for liquid returns during mashing and whirlpooling.

I have to say just having the frame mobile and on castors is truely a blessing much easy to move and handle!

I hope this week to complete the mash tun - another care package should be at work today for collection to install the false bottom and mash/liquor return.

Once this is complete - I will be moving on to completing the welding and devise an adjustable mounting solution for the two burners.

Pics attached.

MWS

 

[cdbrown]

Top work Mark. Those welds look good - amazing how much quicker and easier it is to weld after only doing a few. Did you cut those top plates from an off cut of the hollow section? I'll need to do something about closing up the ends of the main beams on my rig as well.

 

[grimpanda]

Really enjoying following progress on your rig Mark. Can you tell me what the length of your 2400w HLT element is and where you got it? I've found plenty on ebay but they are all 440mm long and would barely fit my HLT at a squeeze.

 

[cdbrown]

Is your HLT a keg conversion Gabe? Could you get a 15A circuit installed and move up to 3.6kW as they seem to be shorter for some reason
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/HOT-WATER-ELEMENT-3...=item25502dae1f

 

[grimpanda]

Is your HLT a keg conversion Gabe? Could you get a 15A circuit installed and move up to 3.6kW as they seem to be shorter for some reason
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/HOT-WATER-ELEMENT-3...=item25502dae1f

It is indeed, but I live in a rental, so installing a 15A circuit is impractical for a number of reasons.

 

[markws]

Cdbrown - the tops of the square tube were closed with 50mm 3mm flat bar roughly cut to size welded on and smoothed off with a flap sander /angle grinder. If i had the technology and ability I would of considered 45 degree cuts to eleminate this issue. If you are thinking of doing the same - pm me i have plenty of flat bar remaining you would be welcome to use.

Gabe - the HLT element was from beerbelly, 2400W 10A mounted on a 1" boss that was cut in half to reduce the amount it would not sit in side the keg. Possibly not the fastest solution, however the prelim data is positive and will support 40L brew days. Aswell, I did not want to have to modify the house ie install a 15A circuit.

Updates - recieved the domed false bottom for the mash tun and wort return dish. As previously mentioned I, intend to modify the mash return dish to ensure it is removal and therefore hopefully helps with cleans and removing spent grains. Pics to follow shortly. This weekend will include a bunnings run to collect some cap-head socket bolts for mounting the pumps, 1" flat bar to construct the adjustable burner 'racks'.

I have also had to buy a 1/2" bsp tap to clear the sockets welded on to the keg - I suspect the sockets on the mash tun and boil kettle have warped from welding.

In summary - it is shaping up to be a fairly slow weekend for brew build.

MWS

 

[markws]

Min effort this weekend (however did get to brew 35L of Jamil's America Ale ).

Updates -

I mounted the March Pumps on the centre strut. I also included a pic of where the wires will go.

I also received a 'care package', so i was able to tentively setup the Mash tun. SS 12" false bottom, 1/2" elbow and helical wound plastic tube. The compression fitting is actually a 1/2" BSP cap nut that i have drilled an appropriately sized hole in the end.

I wanted to ensure the mash return dish was removable, to make life as easy as possible in removing the spent grain. So, I have welded a socket into the top of the keg and plan to attached the entire return dish on a female camlock. Test driving it today it appears to be suitable and robust enough for routine use. Pics attached.

Lastly I mounted the control panel. Pics attached.

Next I plan to make adjustable burner stands from 1" flat bar prior to mounting the gas equipment etc.

 

[white.grant]

Lovely work there Mark, good idea with the camlock.

That isn't a section of helical wire PVC tube coming from the false bottom is it? Probably be better to use some silicon tube as the PVC isn't heat rated.

cheers

grant

 

[T.D.]

That isn't a section of helical wire PVC tube coming from the false bottom is it? Probably be better to use some silicon tube as the PVC isn't heat rated.

Where's my popcorn...

 

[glaab]

Real pretty, but why didn't you mitre the top corners and hit it mit the flap disc?
I know, everyones a critic. Seriously though, very nice job Mark :icon_chickcheers:
I'll be making similar soon so I'll keep an eye on the thread.

 

[grimpanda]

Nice progress Mark.

What kind of burners are you planning to use? I've just started my brew stand (yet to make a thread), and am currently (trying to) devise a rail system so I can slide my 23-jet mongolian from my mash tun to kettle as needed.

Also whats the overall height of your stand with the castors?

Sorry for the twenty questions!

Gabe

 

[unrealeous]

That isn't a section of helical wire PVC tube coming from the false bottom is it? Probably be better to use some silicon tube as the PVC isn't heat rated.

+1 - that PVC imparts bad flavors - I'll dig you up a thread on it if you want.

That wort return setup looks awesome. Might have to upgrade my setup after seeing that.