Markws Brew Stand Build

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Cheers Spoonta - wish I'd known of that place before probably would have saved 50% on what I've already spent on s/s fittings. Oh well, socket has been ordered and they are posting it to me.
 
not a prob mate if you need some were to get them welded on let me know
 
Hi Guys,

1" SS boss for heating element - purchased from BeerBelly some time ago. I actually used a lathe and cut it in half and stepped the boss so that it would locate into the hole prepared, making life easy for welding. As a side note i have done the same to several 1/2" connectors - I will take a couple of pics tonight.

Castors - purchased from Dandenong Casters. www.dandenongcasters.com.au, type: Core Caster/NDL series (100kg). They have a new website up and running and are offering 20% off by mentioning that you have checked out their internet page.

PS - hope to have some pics of the gas safety shutoff valve components either today or tomorrow. I checked out the track and trace number at work today and it should be at the PO Box for collection and have also ordered components for the mash tun (due to arrive in the next 10 days). Still the main outstanding item to purchased as previously mentioned is the gas solenoid from the US - my number one job tonight!

Cheers

MWS
 
not a prob mate if you need some were to get them welded on let me know

I have an arc welding machine which I'm keen to use. Is there any issues or things I need to look out for when arc welding the kegs? Burning holes or anything like that?
 
I have an arc welding machine which I'm keen to use. Is there any issues or things I need to look out for when arc welding the kegs? Burning holes or anything like that?


You need get s/s rod to start with then low amps
 
cdbrown - similar to Spoonta comments; I used 2mm SS rods and used a fairly low amp setting. I was lucky to save some SS tube to test drive in order to work out an appropriate amp setting that was easy to work with and did not create a hole at the weld joint. While welding the 1" boss, I did blow a small hole between the boss and the side of the keg which took a bit of time and effort to fix. ie building up the weld and grinding it back.

If it adds value, happy for you to call past to check out the set-up i used and how i approached my welding. (I do not confess to being the greatest welder placed on this planet, but did mangage to get the job done). I plan to weld in another 2 1/2" bosses shortly for both the mash tun and kettle.

PS- I purchased my SS rod from a welding surpplier in Osborne Park, 1 roberts road. ~$30 of a 1kg of rods 2mm diameter.

Cheers

MWS
 
Hi All,

As expected the gas safety valve, pilot light and thermocouple arrived. Pics attached. I have picked up two sets; 1 x boil kettle and 1 x mash tun.

I ended up purchasing;
White Rodgers Gas safety Valve 764-742
Honeywell 18" universal thermocouple Q340A1066
Honeywell Q34A6094 target type pilot burner.

This was based upon threads in US forums and research as to what was locally available (plus cost). It looks as if I will be needing to manufacture a specific bracket to combine the pilot flame and thermocouple with the mongolian burner. Furthermore , I am not entirely satisfied to 'hang' the mongolian burner off the 1/2' gas tube as described in the Brutus Ten build. More thinking shall be required prior to building the brew frame.

Still have not ordered the gs solenoid from the US due to complete slackness.

(Pls note. The normal caveats apply if you are considering these products for your project. I am not a lic gas fitter).

PS - I recently picked up some beers from the international beer shop here in Perth was lucky to carry by wears out in a nice new beer crate FOC

beer_crate_2.jpg


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I have an arc welding machine which I'm keen to use. Is there any issues or things I need to look out for when arc welding the kegs? Burning holes or anything like that?

Make sure you get some scrap and practice on that before you go anywhere near your S/S vessel.
 
Make sure you get some scrap and practice on that before you go anywhere near your S/S vessel.


good advice, also when welding, concentrate the weldpool onto the heavier item and let the weld flow onto the thinner guage material, less chance of blowing a hole in the vessel.
 
Dear All,

Finally i have made some serious progress in creating 'my own monster' of a brew frame.

Pumpy I don't like you at the moment. ;) You pics posted early this week are an inspiring. Thanks for the dimensions too Franko for the red rocket.

My plan was today was to hire a metal cut off saw. Late Sat afternoon I was chating to a good friend of mine (Mustafa - Man of Love!) and he mentioned that he had a metal drop saw.

So, today - i headed out to his winery and collected the saw (specifically, telling him not to expect it back in the nect 4 to 8 weeks), sweet!!!!

So, what was actually acheived....

Most of the lenghts of tube have been cut (50x50x3mm) and I have 'tack' welded the frame together. This represents now a hybrid of a brutus 10 and a franko's - red rocket. The key differences are that I wanted a bar (similar to the brutus 10) to mount the 2 x march 809's and a 30 plate heat exchanger. I was contenplating just going the red rocket frame but liked the idea of not just making a box, but basically a box with legs, with the intent that it will appear more elegant.

Furthermore, to help with hiding the electrical cords etc i have drill a number of holed in the frame within the welds. This has been purposely been done for both the March 809's and the gas solenoid valve (hopefully to arrived prior to the end of this week).

Stuff to do:

Fully weld all joins in the frame, and grind back all welds.

recieve several 'care packages', gas solenoid, false bottom and mash/hot liquor return system and temp controllers,

Currently my plan is to paint the majority of the frame 'hammertone' grey and areas with heat - stove bright - grey.

Importantly the dimensions;

Since i am a not a short person I have decided to go for an overall height of 870mm (tube cut to 770mm to handle 100mm wheels), total length - 1400mm (same as Franko's+Pumpy's), width 410mm (total) - this means the kegs use all four sides of the frame for balance.

MWS

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Looking good!

Are you adding castors to the legs?
 
Raven19 - i have purchased some 100mm direction, lockable casters - there is a pic of them further back in the thread. Picked them up from Dandenong Casters (they are on the web and have a discount at the moment if you mention the new web site)
 
A number of 'care packages' arrived today for the new brewstand:

1. 2x 10amp temp controllers (purchased via ebay, as discussed through a sep thread on this forum).
these willl be used to control the electric hot liquor tank and the mash tun.

2. 1x STC valves - gas solenoid valve.
This unit will be combined with the gas safety valve, Pilot light and manual gas valve to be controlled by the temp controller (forementioned) to swtich the monoglian burner on and off; to either maintain the desired mash temp or raise the temp either for step mashing or mash out.

3. 1 x STC 1/2" bsp male to elbow compression fitting.
This will be welded onto the hot liquor tank hopefully this weekend as a site glass fitting. I already have the plastic tube - it just needs to be cut to length.

Additionally I have attached a basic pic of the gas safety, gas solenoid and manual valve setup. The plan is to install the equipment similar to pumpy's gas set-up as the thermocouple for the pilot valve has a fixed length, otherwise I would be considering a remote setup on the brew frame to control each of the burners. The boil kettle will only be manually controlled is gas safety valve and manual ball valve only.

Hopefully this weekend i will have a chance to complete the mash tun which will require a mash return system to be installed as well finishing off all the modifications required to the other vessels.

I also will have to start to researching potiential enclosures for the electronics - temp control valves and switches to be installed. Again the plan is to locate a fairly small and compact electronics box on the right hand side under the hot liquor tank.

MWS

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3. 1 x STC 1/2" bsp male to elbow compression fitting.
This will be welded onto the hot liquor tank

MWS

the fitting looks to be galv, it'll be easier to weld if you remove it, nice job on the frame.

cheers

Dave
 
2. 1x STC valves - gas solenoid valve.
This unit will be combined with the gas safety valve, Pilot light and manual gas valve to be controlled by the temp controller (forementioned) to swtich the monoglian burner on and off; to either maintain the desired mash temp or raise the temp either for step mashing or mash out.
I actually added a manual valve in parallel to the solenoid valve instead of putting one inline. The reasoning being that there might be times when you want your burners going without your control system on, and these things fail safe (close) - and if not, you turn the gas off at the tap. Food for thought anyway.
 
I actually added a manual valve in parallel to the solenoid valve instead of putting one inline. The reasoning being that there might be times when you want your burners going without your control system on, and these things fail safe (close) - and if not, you turn the gas off at the tap. Food for thought anyway.

Thanks for the reply - i have not considered this option. More thought required. <_< I was solely focused on the fact that the control panel would always be used to operate the burners.
 
I also will have to start to researching potiential enclosures for the electronics - temp control valves and switches to be installed. Again the plan is to locate a fairly small and compact electronics box on the right hand side under the hot liquor tank.

MWS

Looking good Mark. Let me know where you get the enclosure from as I'll need one as well.
 
Looking good Mark. Let me know where you get the enclosure from as I'll need one as well.
CDbrown,

I did a bit of research last night on this topic - RS components appear to be have the widest range of aluminum enclosures suitable for what we what. I am looking at a box that is approximately 176 x 121 x 106mm. Cost is approx $50. Jaycar and DSE had nothing that met my needs. It will be a tight fit for all the components, but I wanted the smallest box possible. This has now lead me to identifying what type of switch to use. I am thinking of waterproof swtiches at the moment.

I'll post a pic shortly of the product I have decided on.

Hope this helps

MWS

Edit: I have replaced an order with RS Components for the following item (Pic attached)

View attachment rscomp.bmp
 
The aluminum electronic enclosure turned up today. Pics attached. dimensions 171mmx121mmx106mm (2mm wall thickness).

The plan is to mount it on the right hand side flush with the brew frame under the hot liquor tank.

I took a couple of pics of the two temp controllers to be mounted in the enclosure. It will be tight for all the switches. <_<

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