mattyg8
Well-Known Member
yeh I usually ferment at 18deg, Ill raise the temp up to 20deg or should I go a little higher?
Looking to do my First BIAB
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Rocker1986
Well-Known Member
You could probably go to 21ish if you wanted to. I normally ferment at 18 as well, but around the 5 day mark I raise the controller up to about 20-21 and let it come up on its own, and leave it there until it finishes.
mattyg8
Well-Known Member
Forgot to update this thread but it came out amazing!
Will look at doing my second one soon and will need some help configuring a diffrent recipe to suit my methods
Will look at doing my second one soon and will need some help configuring a diffrent recipe to suit my methods
mattyg8
Well-Known Member
What software do people use to convert ingredient amounts to suit different batch sizes?
I plan on making Dano's Hop Hog Clone (Recipe 4) http://aussiehomebrewer.com/topic/80776-danos-all-grain-feral-hop-hog-clone/page-8
in the next few days ill try work out what grain substitutions I can use for what I have access to and Hop Schedule to suit my brewing techniques
I plan on making Dano's Hop Hog Clone (Recipe 4) http://aussiehomebrewer.com/topic/80776-danos-all-grain-feral-hop-hog-clone/page-8
in the next few days ill try work out what grain substitutions I can use for what I have access to and Hop Schedule to suit my brewing techniques
Rocker1986
Well-Known Member
I use Beersmith, no affiliation blah blah blah, but the calculation can be done without software.
Divide your desired batch size by the recipe quoted batch size, then simply multiply all ingredient amounts by that figure.
In the case of that recipe let's say you want to do a 23 litre batch
23/25 = 0.92.
5.15x0.92 = 4.74
0.59x0.92 = 0.542
0.15x0.92 = 0.138
And so on and so on with the rest of the ingredients. It's obviously more time consuming though.
In saying that, software is handy and when you get into designing your own recipes will be very useful, so it wouldn't be a bad idea to get one of them anyway. Beersmith, brewmate etc. They're all pretty good programs.
Divide your desired batch size by the recipe quoted batch size, then simply multiply all ingredient amounts by that figure.
In the case of that recipe let's say you want to do a 23 litre batch
23/25 = 0.92.
5.15x0.92 = 4.74
0.59x0.92 = 0.542
0.15x0.92 = 0.138
And so on and so on with the rest of the ingredients. It's obviously more time consuming though.
In saying that, software is handy and when you get into designing your own recipes will be very useful, so it wouldn't be a bad idea to get one of them anyway. Beersmith, brewmate etc. They're all pretty good programs.
mattyg8
Well-Known Member
Haha didn't even think about just calculating it. I just use Ian's Biab spreedsheet.
I tried beersmith but couldnt really work it out
I tried beersmith but couldnt really work it out
mattyg8
Well-Known Member
Ohk, So I plan on doing Dano's Hop Hog Clone Recipe 4 and after entering the recipe into Ians BIAB spreedsheet I get the following
Obviously the IBU's are through the roof as I No Chill!
What can I modify to get these down?
I also did a 30min Whirlpool for my first BIAB that I could drop if that helps?
Here is Dano's Hop Schedule
[SIZE=9pt]Hops[/SIZE]
[SIZE=9pt] Amount Name Form Alpha IBU Boil Time[/SIZE]
[SIZE=9pt]-----------------------------------------------------------------------------[/SIZE]
[SIZE=9pt] 33.00 g. Magnum Pellet 10.28 36.1 60 min.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=9pt] 12.00 g. Amarillo Gold Pellet 8.62 5.5 15 min.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=9pt] 12.00 g. Cascade Pellet 7.93 5.0 15 min.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=9pt] 12.00 g. Centennial Pellet 9.33 5.9 15 min.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=9pt] 17.00 g. Amarillo Gold Pellet 8.00 0.0 Whirlpool at 70 degrees.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=9pt] 17.00 g. Cascade Pellet 5.60 0.0 Whirlpool at 70 degrees.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=9pt] 17.00 g. Centennial Pellet 9.90 0.0 Whirlpool at 70 degrees.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=9pt] 25.00 g. Amarillo Gold Pellet 8.62 0.0 Dry Hop - Aim for 4 days of dry hop time[/SIZE]
[SIZE=9pt] 25.00 g. Cascade Pellet 7.93 0.0 Dry Hop - Aim for 4 days of dry hop time[/SIZE]
[SIZE=9pt] 25.00 g. Centennial Pellet 9.33 0.0 Dry Hop - Aim for 4 days of dry hop time[/SIZE]
Also with the grains I only really have Keg King as an option, and could possibly try get to Full Pint.
Dano's recipe calls for
[SIZE=9pt] % Amount Name Origin Potential EBC[/SIZE]
[SIZE=9pt]-----------------------------------------------------------------------------[/SIZE]
[SIZE=9pt] 87.5 5.15 kg. Barrett Burston - Ale Malt Australia 1.038 6[/SIZE]
[SIZE=9pt] 10.0 0.59 kg. Weyermann Munich I Germany 1.038 15[/SIZE]
[SIZE=9pt] 2.5 0.15 kg. Weyermann Caramunich II Germany 1.035 125[/SIZE]
What grains could I substitute?
Thanks Heaps
Obviously the IBU's are through the roof as I No Chill!
What can I modify to get these down?
I also did a 30min Whirlpool for my first BIAB that I could drop if that helps?
Here is Dano's Hop Schedule
[SIZE=9pt]Hops[/SIZE]
[SIZE=9pt] Amount Name Form Alpha IBU Boil Time[/SIZE]
[SIZE=9pt]-----------------------------------------------------------------------------[/SIZE]
[SIZE=9pt] 33.00 g. Magnum Pellet 10.28 36.1 60 min.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=9pt] 12.00 g. Amarillo Gold Pellet 8.62 5.5 15 min.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=9pt] 12.00 g. Cascade Pellet 7.93 5.0 15 min.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=9pt] 12.00 g. Centennial Pellet 9.33 5.9 15 min.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=9pt] 17.00 g. Amarillo Gold Pellet 8.00 0.0 Whirlpool at 70 degrees.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=9pt] 17.00 g. Cascade Pellet 5.60 0.0 Whirlpool at 70 degrees.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=9pt] 17.00 g. Centennial Pellet 9.90 0.0 Whirlpool at 70 degrees.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=9pt] 25.00 g. Amarillo Gold Pellet 8.62 0.0 Dry Hop - Aim for 4 days of dry hop time[/SIZE]
[SIZE=9pt] 25.00 g. Cascade Pellet 7.93 0.0 Dry Hop - Aim for 4 days of dry hop time[/SIZE]
[SIZE=9pt] 25.00 g. Centennial Pellet 9.33 0.0 Dry Hop - Aim for 4 days of dry hop time[/SIZE]
Also with the grains I only really have Keg King as an option, and could possibly try get to Full Pint.
Dano's recipe calls for
[SIZE=9pt] % Amount Name Origin Potential EBC[/SIZE]
[SIZE=9pt]-----------------------------------------------------------------------------[/SIZE]
[SIZE=9pt] 87.5 5.15 kg. Barrett Burston - Ale Malt Australia 1.038 6[/SIZE]
[SIZE=9pt] 10.0 0.59 kg. Weyermann Munich I Germany 1.038 15[/SIZE]
[SIZE=9pt] 2.5 0.15 kg. Weyermann Caramunich II Germany 1.035 125[/SIZE]
What grains could I substitute?
Thanks Heaps
Rocker1986
Well-Known Member
The general idea when no-chilling is to adjust the late kettle additions. The bittering addition itself won't add much extra bitterness from no-chilling (maybe a couple of IBUs); it's the late additions that change more. Even then, they're impossible to predict. To be honest it's not something I've ever bothered with and my beers have never ended up being way over the top more bitter than I expected when formulating the recipes, or even more bitter at all really. Maybe I'm just weird. 
For that recipe perhaps you could shift the 15 minute additions to flameout. Looking at that screen shot though, you will need to drop the Magnum back first to get to about 50IBUs or whatever the original is, but it looks as if the spreadsheet takes the no-chill into account, to a degree anyway. Those zero minute additions are contributing IBUs, as they would when being added to near boiling wort. Another option could be to leave it as is (but still drop the amount of Magnum back), drop the zero minute additions and make a hop tea in 70C water with them instead, before straining this into the FV when you tip the batch in. This way you still get their influence but no extra IBUs.
For that recipe perhaps you could shift the 15 minute additions to flameout. Looking at that screen shot though, you will need to drop the Magnum back first to get to about 50IBUs or whatever the original is, but it looks as if the spreadsheet takes the no-chill into account, to a degree anyway. Those zero minute additions are contributing IBUs, as they would when being added to near boiling wort. Another option could be to leave it as is (but still drop the amount of Magnum back), drop the zero minute additions and make a hop tea in 70C water with them instead, before straining this into the FV when you tip the batch in. This way you still get their influence but no extra IBUs.
mattyg8
Well-Known Member
Yeah there is an option under BIAB page to select chill or not chill, in the notes is states, chill/no chill option for hop additions. The no chill option adds 15 minutes to the hop times for IBU calculations.
I didn't change the schedule for Dr Smuto's Golden Ale but there weren't as many hops.
I set it to no chill.
With flame-out that refers to once the 90 min boil is done and you turn off the heating element? So I would add the hops after this and create a whirlpool to sit for 30 mins or just don't whirlpool?
I changed the magnum hops to 25g, moved the 15 mins to flame-out and can create a hop tea at 70 deg's which I can add to fermentor when I go to ferment.
Does any one have any ideas regarding grain substitution?
I didn't change the schedule for Dr Smuto's Golden Ale but there weren't as many hops.
I set it to no chill.
With flame-out that refers to once the 90 min boil is done and you turn off the heating element? So I would add the hops after this and create a whirlpool to sit for 30 mins or just don't whirlpool?
I changed the magnum hops to 25g, moved the 15 mins to flame-out and can create a hop tea at 70 deg's which I can add to fermentor when I go to ferment.
Does any one have any ideas regarding grain substitution?
mattyg8
Well-Known Member
Yeah there is an option under BIAB page to select chill or not chill, in the notes is states, chill/no chill option for hop additions. The no chill option adds 15 minutes to the hop times for IBU calculations.
I didn't change the schedule for Dr Smuto's Golden Ale but there weren't as many hops.
I set it to no chill.
With flame-out that refers to once the 90 min boil is done and you turn off the heating element? So I would add the hops after this and create a whirlpool to sit for 30 mins or just don't whirlpool?
I changed the magnum hops to 25g, moved the 15 mins to flame-out and can create a hop tea at 70 deg's which I can add to fermentor when I go to ferment.
Does any one have any ideas regarding grain substitution?
I didn't change the schedule for Dr Smuto's Golden Ale but there weren't as many hops.
I set it to no chill.
With flame-out that refers to once the 90 min boil is done and you turn off the heating element? So I would add the hops after this and create a whirlpool to sit for 30 mins or just don't whirlpool?
I changed the magnum hops to 25g, moved the 15 mins to flame-out and can create a hop tea at 70 deg's which I can add to fermentor when I go to ferment.
Does any one have any ideas regarding grain substitution?
indica86
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Joe White light Munich, some form of light crystal for the caramunich and then whatever ale malt.mattyg8 said:
Flameout is when you turn the heat off.
If I was doing it I'd keep the Magnum as is then dump the rest - apart from the dry hop - in at flameout. That works well for me with no chill.
contrarian
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In terms of grain substitution most suppliers will have an ale malt which will be fine and munich. They should also have a straight swap for caramunich but if that isn't available any crystal malt should be fine, the main difference will be colour so if that is important and you can't get caramunich look for a crystal or cara malt with a similar EBC.
For no chill some people don't adjust hop additions at all while some add 15 minutes as a rule of thumb for late additions. More recently I have been adding late hops (under 15 minutes) into the whirlpool with good results and have also had success with adding late hops straight into the cube prior to transferring wort.
Either way that is going to be a super hoppy beer!
I would suggest choosing a method such as those mentioned above and giving it a go. Take some notes and next time you brew this make modifications to suit your palate.
For no chill some people don't adjust hop additions at all while some add 15 minutes as a rule of thumb for late additions. More recently I have been adding late hops (under 15 minutes) into the whirlpool with good results and have also had success with adding late hops straight into the cube prior to transferring wort.
Either way that is going to be a super hoppy beer!
I would suggest choosing a method such as those mentioned above and giving it a go. Take some notes and next time you brew this make modifications to suit your palate.
mattyg8
Well-Known Member
Thanks guys! I loved this beer when I tried it and even the wife liked it!
Rocker1986
Well-Known Member
You can whirlpool or not, that is up to you. The flameout hops go in when you turn off the heat, yes. I personally don't whirlpool; I have a Crown urn, and I found whirlpooling actually led to the **** being drawn into the tap outlet earlier than not whirlpooling, when it was drained into the cube, so I decided not to bother with it.
I think the best way to deal with hop adjustment for no-chilling is to just work it out for your own tastes. This "move all additions 15-20 minutes forward" theory doesn't suit all applications, because you have situations like mine where no-chilling doesn't seem to affect it at all, and others who have issues of beers being way too bitter. Then you have issues of brewing recipes where the method and timing of chilling isn't even noted at all, so how do you know how long the wort sat hot before it was chilled in order to adjust anything? You don't. This particular recipe does note this, so it makes it easier, but a lot don't.
I think the best way to deal with hop adjustment for no-chilling is to just work it out for your own tastes. This "move all additions 15-20 minutes forward" theory doesn't suit all applications, because you have situations like mine where no-chilling doesn't seem to affect it at all, and others who have issues of beers being way too bitter. Then you have issues of brewing recipes where the method and timing of chilling isn't even noted at all, so how do you know how long the wort sat hot before it was chilled in order to adjust anything? You don't. This particular recipe does note this, so it makes it easier, but a lot don't.
mattyg8
Well-Known Member
Great advise guys!
shacked
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Re: grain substitution, I use this chart: http://www.brew.is/files/malt.html
mattyg8
Well-Known Member
Yeah I came across that substitution chart, Looks like Magnum hops wont be in for a few weeks, whats a good subsitution? Quick search on the net I see northern brewer hops is mentioned?
mattyg8
Well-Known Member
With creating the hop tea to add to the fermenter how long should I let it sit in the 70deg water and how much water should I use
shacked
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mattyg8
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Ok put down this brew the other day and its just chilling in the cube. Will create a hop tea once I'm ready to ferment.
A few things id like to ask to refine my technique. For this brew I dropped the whirlpool and just let it sit for 10 mins after flameout.
When adding water to the urn at the start of the brew do people just add hot water from the tap? or start off with cold water? as it takes a long time to reach the usual strike temp.
A few things id like to ask to refine my technique. For this brew I dropped the whirlpool and just let it sit for 10 mins after flameout.
When adding water to the urn at the start of the brew do people just add hot water from the tap? or start off with cold water? as it takes a long time to reach the usual strike temp.
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