KK - 'Fermentasaurus' conical PET fermenter

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mr_wibble

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sbowler said:
Hey Mr wibble,

What's the elastic band thingy you're using to hold the thermometer on?
It's a bit of "ocky-strap" cord, from the local non-bunnings hardware, where I can buy it by the metre.
Probably can get it a lot of places, including bunnings, BCF, camping shops, etc.

I use it also for holding the yoga-mat insulation around my mash-tun & HLT.
Except there I need two rings.
 

Drewski

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Will beer overcarb without a spunding valve attached? Seems like this should really be sold with the spunding valve or it is not going to work real well as is?
 

rude

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Ive just started using a spunding valve first 3 days are constant checks

You dont want more than 15 psi apparently bad for the yeast

Having said that I have fallen for the gauge all the way round trick (too much pressure ) twice now
but due to constant checks have realised within 12 hours & rectified

Wont happen again I hope beers have come out well 2 Kolschs one on top of cake farken nice :icon_drool2:

My fermenter is stainless dont think I could go back to plastics now but all comes down to price
 

malt junkie

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Drewski said:
Will beer overcarb without a spunding valve attached? Seems like this should really be sold with the spunding valve or it is not going to work real well as is?
If you started fermenting with the pressure kit, with no spunding, the ferment would pressurise the fermenter to the rated pressure of the safety valve (PRV) if the PRV failed you've basically got a bomb, no it probably won't be spectacular, but it will be loud and destroy the fermenter, oh and make a mess. KK would have done some tests on catastrophic failure, those video's would be fun to see (just cause watching things go bang is pretty awesome).
 

mr_wibble

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The pressure does a few different things to the beer.

One of the key points, is that fermenting under pressure reduces ester formation. This happens "naturally" in tall (huge) fermenters due to the weight of the liquid on itself. So say you were brewing a style which wanted less-esters (e.g.: lagers), you can ferment under pressure, but at warmer temperatures. The increased temperature gives a faster ferment, saving your mega-brewery time & money. Personally I don't care about this.

The reason I'm interested, well - primarily I'm interested just for the sake of it. (I'd have to take up frickin' knitting or jousting if I didn't do this sort of stuff) ; Ahem. The reason I'm interested is that the beer comes out of fermentation carbonated. And this sounds like a nice idea.

The pressure probably does a bunch of other things I don't know about too.
 

malt junkie

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MHB and others posted a lot of info regarding the effects of pressure on fermentation in previous threads on the subject. I'm not saying DASFFS, but it's too early to be chasing links.
 

oxebar

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Drewski said:
Will beer overcarb without a spunding valve attached? Seems like this should really be sold with the spunding valve or it is not going to work real well as is?
Depends, if you are fermenting below about 25 degC then you will likely overcarbonate if you are not using a spunding valve to relieve pressure. You can unscrew the PRV from the pressure lid and insert a blow lock in the same hole at the beginning of fermentation. If you know your target FG and monitor the gravity then you can return the PRV at the correct time to naturally carbonate. There is no need to swap lids during fermentation or use a spunding valve if you don't have one. Alternatively you can let it ferment out with the blow lock and then prime with the desired amount of sugar/wort and return the PRV to carbonate.

malt junkie said:
If you started fermenting with the pressure kit, with no spunding, the ferment would pressurise the fermenter to the rated pressure of the safety valve (PRV) if the PRV failed you've basically got a bomb, no it probably won't be spectacular, but it will be loud and destroy the fermenter, oh and make a mess. KK would have done some tests on catastrophic failure, those video's would be fun to see (just cause watching things go bang is pretty awesome).
We do multiple burst tests each day to make sure that the tanks are consistent, these are done hydraulically; it is quite spectacular when it is done pneumatically. The PRV is the primary safety on the fermenter; if the PRV gets blocked and fails to open then the lid seal will blow out and pressure releases past the cuts in the thread. We have not been able to produce a failure in a tank when using standard lids and seals that have not been tampered with.
We have had reports of some lid seals blowing out before the PRV opens. This can usually be remedied by making sure lid is tightened firmly enough, and only seems to be an issue when people are pressure fermenting without a spunding valve. We definitely suggest using a spunding valve for fermenting under pressure as it can be set at a more suitable pressure level for the yeast than that of the built in PRV.


malt junkie said:
If you started fermenting with the pressure kit, with no spunding, the ferment would pressurise the fermenter to the rated pressure of the safety valve (PRV) if the PRV failed you've basically got a bomb, no it probably won't be spectacular, but it will be loud and destroy the fermenter, oh and make a mess. KK would have done some tests on catastrophic failure, those video's would be fun to see (just cause watching things go bang is pretty awesome).
 

oxebar

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Oops, quoted you twice in that post malt junkie.
 

oxebar

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Mr Wibble said:
So I'm about to do my 2nd batch - do I add the bulb to the bottom (and open) right from the start, or open the valve once when you want to dump ?
or something else?

EDIT: Just found the instructions. One opens the valve *after* fermentation. (doh!)

While I'm wasting everyone's time: the KK spunding valve - there's no scale on this, is there an OK initial setting?
Half a rotation off closed?
(I've *never* used this before).
As Wobbly suggests, I find it best to open the valve from the start.
I might have to review those instructions now that we have had a bit of feedback.

wobbly said:
Not wanting to counter what KK might be recommending but for what it's worth the instructions that come with my WW state to leave the bottom valve open all the time during the ferment and that's what I do with no ill effects on fermentation and the yeast is able to settle into the sediment bottle as and when it wants to after having done its job

Cheers

Wobbly
 

Drewski

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My spunding valve is on the way from keg king, i did not actually realise you could remove the PRV and use an airlock or blowoff.

My first beer in it i opened the bottom valve after a few days, second beer i did open from start. It does seem better to open from the start i must say, saves waiting for the trub to settle after opening.
 

meathead

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I put mine in the shower on the stand
Hot water to rinse and a soft brush to get the crud off
Soak overnight hot water nappysan
Rinse
 

bradsbrew

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oxebar said:
As Wobbly suggests, I find it best to open the valve from the start.
I might have to review those instructions now that we have had a bit of feedback.
Yes definately have it open, imagine the look on my face as all that air bubbled up through my near finished beer.

Although next time I am thinking of having my yeast in the container, oxygenate the wort, then open the valve.

It also works very well for dry hopping.

Drinking from the fermenter has never been easier and it's carbonated.

Cheers
 

wobbly

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bradsbrew said:
Although next time I am thinking of having my yeast in the container, oxygenate the wort, then open the valve.
Standard procedure with my WW.

If dry hopping the best you will get in the standar sediment bottle is about 30g pellets where as if you are using the soda stream bottle you should be able to add about 50g pellets. Add the hop pellets and then half fill the bottle with boiling water and let sit for 5 mins then top up with beer from the tap so as to eliminate any Oxygen reattach the bottle and open the valve. The hot/warm hops will float up through the brew before setiling back into the sediment bottle

Wobbly
 

professional_drunk

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On my 3rd batch now. Just some notes:
  • Cleaning is quite easy if your use to cleaning better bottles. Add some sodium percarb and 40c water. Swish around. If there's something stuck to the sides, I roll it around on my lap while watching tv until it's gone.
  • Keg King spunding valve is a pain to get it set accurately. If releasing pressure, don't go by the sound. Make small adjustments and come back after an hour to see what pressure you're at.
  • Emptied the fermenter through a filter into a keg. Worked beautifully.
  • Make sure you detach the bottle as soon as you close the butterfly valve. If you leave it on, it can explode yeast all over the place if it builds up pressure and you take it off later.
 

mr_wibble

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meathead said:
I put mine in the shower on the stand
Hot water to rinse and a soft brush to get the crud off
Soak overnight hot water nappysan
Rinse
Mrs Wibble always makes lewd comments when I shower with my fermenter & kegs.
I'm must rinsing them, honest!
 

mr_wibble

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Jacob Thomas said:
Anyone got any pics of how to clean this thing?
No Pics, but:

I disassembled mine (not the butterfly valve though), all these bits can just be washed-up in the sink by hand.
That leaves the "bulb". I rinsed the krausen-ring off with hot tap-water (50C). It wasn't a difficult ring this time though, some set like concrete.
Then put the lid back on, and swirled around cleaning solution (the bulk white powder from LHBS). The bulb is pretty lightweight, easy to handle.
Finally I rinsed it out with the hand-held shower-head thingy, in the shower-recess.

One minor negative, is that my arms are too big to fit into the lid-hole. I'd like it another couple of centimetres here.
 

BrutusB

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Finally put down my first brew on Saturday in the Fermentasaurus.

10% Abv Imperial Stout

Directly after pitching:
IMG_20170506_171746_HDR.jpg

Within 15 hours:
IMG_20170507_122815_HDR.jpg

I let the pressure build up in those 15 hours, did an initial vent then connected the blow-off tube.

I've never seen that much activity in a bucket so quickly and it's still hammering today.

All going well!
 

Jase

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BrutusB said:
I let the pressure build up in those 15 hours, did an initial vent then connected the blow-off tube.

I've never seen that much activity in a bucket so quickly and it's still hammering today.

All going well!
Hi BrutusB,

Are you considering fermenting under pressure or are you happy to continue to use the blow off tube process?

Cheers,
Jase
 

BrutusB

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Jase said:
Hi BrutusB,

Are you considering fermenting under pressure or are you happy to continue to use the blow off tube process?

Cheers,
Jase
For the moment I'm sticking with the blow off tube - I'd like to ferment under pressure but the available options for a spunding valve/PRV seem a bit hit and miss at the moment.

I'm following the progress with some home made solutions in:
http://aussiehomebrewer.com/topic/90341-spunding-valve/?p=1452989

Hopefully Mardoo reports back with good news.
 

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