Keezer wood options

[Yorkie88]

I've recently acquired a chest freezer that fits 4 corny kegs in, next to the hump, without a collar, but I'm going to add one anyway for taps and so I can fit the 6kg CO2 in aswell.

Is it worth going pretty big with the collar so I can use the hump for kegs? To be honest, I'm not a big drinker, I just like making things and I'm in the phase of dabbling with ginger beer and cider (I don't like proper beer or lager - please don't shoot me! Maybe there is one out there for me) - so I don't know that I'd need to store more than 3 or 4 kegs anyway unless I tried seltzer or soft drinks too.

I've been looking for 10 or 12 by 2 and can't find much that isn't mega expensive, so I was wondering whether building a frame/box out of smaller wood (2x2) work, then cladding it with a panel like plywood or something? Or am I just looking in the wrong places? I'm from the UK so I would usually just get something like CLS but I don't know what it's called here......is that the DAR pine? Stair treads and scaffold planks seem to be about the right size but are pricey!

Otherwise I could just go for 4 x 2 and not use the hump bit I think.

Any advice is much appreciated

Cheers!

 

[akx]

Go big. You can have more variety on tap, even if you aren't drinking it. A lumber store should be able to sort you out.

 

[GoodDuck]

Keep in mind, the higher you make the collar, the higher you will need to lift full kegs to get them into the keezer

 

[Hangover68]

i used 90x45mm on my keezer,the area above the compressor is where my gas bottle is and a plastic tub with beer glasses in it. I have 6 cornies and 5 fit inside with one ready for the next brew.

 

[Yorkie88]

If I go big, I was thinking of trying to do it with a double hinge to help with lifting - lifting shouldn't be too much of an issue though if needed.

Anything to be careful of in terms of the treatment they do to wood? Should I avoid any specific methods/codes? eg. H3 etc.

Thanks!

 

[Hangover68]

If I go big, I was thinking of trying to do it with a double hinge to help with lifting - lifting shouldn't be too much of an issue though if needed.

Anything to be careful of in terms of the treatment they do to wood? Should I avoid any specific methods/codes? eg. H3 etc.

Thanks!

Yeah anything not treated will be fine, i used a polyurethane clear lacquer over a baltic pine stain which i think looks good.

 

[Yorkie88]

Thanks @Hangover68 - I contacted a couple of lumber yards on Friday so hopefully they'll be able to sort something untreated out next week

I spent today sorting the thermostat out so that's done and ready now - replaced the original panel with a (terrible) ABS cutout and mounted the STC-1000 in it, with the original power neon (no real purpose here, just thought why not!)

Probably need a longer probe but seems to be working ok. I'm going to swap it out for an inkbird ITC-1000 when that arrives, this one is a really cheap one so I think I trust the inkbird a bit more.

 

[Hangover68]

Thanks @Hangover68 - I contacted a couple of lumber yards on Friday so hopefully they'll be able to sort something untreated out next week

I spent today sorting the thermostat out so that's done and ready now - replaced the original panel with a (terrible) ABS cutout and mounted the STC-1000 in it, with the original power neon (no real purpose here, just thought why not!)

Probably need a longer probe but seems to be working ok. I'm going to swap it out for an inkbird ITC-1000 when that arrives, this one is a really cheap one so I think I trust the inkbird a bit more.

Just go to bunnings and get a length, doesn't need to be anything special.