Keezer wood options

Australia & New Zealand Homebrewing Forum

Help Support Australia & New Zealand Homebrewing Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Yorkie88

Active Member
Joined
24/1/23
Messages
27
Reaction score
8
Location
Bayside, Melbourne
I've recently acquired a chest freezer that fits 4 corny kegs in, next to the hump, without a collar, but I'm going to add one anyway for taps and so I can fit the 6kg CO2 in aswell.

Is it worth going pretty big with the collar so I can use the hump for kegs? To be honest, I'm not a big drinker, I just like making things and I'm in the phase of dabbling with ginger beer and cider (I don't like proper beer or lager - please don't shoot me! Maybe there is one out there for me) - so I don't know that I'd need to store more than 3 or 4 kegs anyway unless I tried seltzer or soft drinks too.

I've been looking for 10 or 12 by 2 and can't find much that isn't mega expensive, so I was wondering whether building a frame/box out of smaller wood (2x2) work, then cladding it with a panel like plywood or something? Or am I just looking in the wrong places? I'm from the UK so I would usually just get something like CLS but I don't know what it's called here......is that the DAR pine? Stair treads and scaffold planks seem to be about the right size but are pricey!

Otherwise I could just go for 4 x 2 and not use the hump bit I think.

Any advice is much appreciated 😁

Cheers!
 
Go big. You can have more variety on tap, even if you aren't drinking it. A lumber store should be able to sort you out.
 
Keep in mind, the higher you make the collar, the higher you will need to lift full kegs to get them into the keezer
 
i used 90x45mm on my keezer,the area above the compressor is where my gas bottle is and a plastic tub with beer glasses in it. I have 6 cornies and 5 fit inside with one ready for the next brew.
 
If I go big, I was thinking of trying to do it with a double hinge to help with lifting - lifting shouldn't be too much of an issue though if needed.

Anything to be careful of in terms of the treatment they do to wood? Should I avoid any specific methods/codes? eg. H3 etc.

Thanks!
 
If I go big, I was thinking of trying to do it with a double hinge to help with lifting - lifting shouldn't be too much of an issue though if needed.

Anything to be careful of in terms of the treatment they do to wood? Should I avoid any specific methods/codes? eg. H3 etc.

Thanks!

Yeah anything not treated will be fine, i used a polyurethane clear lacquer over a baltic pine stain which i think looks good.
 
Thanks @Hangover68 - I contacted a couple of lumber yards on Friday so hopefully they'll be able to sort something untreated out next week

I spent today sorting the thermostat out so that's done and ready now - replaced the original panel with a (terrible) ABS cutout and mounted the STC-1000 in it, with the original power neon (no real purpose here, just thought why not!)

Probably need a longer probe but seems to be working ok. I'm going to swap it out for an inkbird ITC-1000 when that arrives, this one is a really cheap one so I think I trust the inkbird a bit more.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20230211_160714.jpg
    IMG_20230211_160714.jpg
    1,007 KB · Views: 0
  • IMG_20230211_160709.jpg
    IMG_20230211_160709.jpg
    1.2 MB · Views: 0
Thanks @Hangover68 - I contacted a couple of lumber yards on Friday so hopefully they'll be able to sort something untreated out next week

I spent today sorting the thermostat out so that's done and ready now - replaced the original panel with a (terrible) ABS cutout and mounted the STC-1000 in it, with the original power neon (no real purpose here, just thought why not!)

Probably need a longer probe but seems to be working ok. I'm going to swap it out for an inkbird ITC-1000 when that arrives, this one is a really cheap one so I think I trust the inkbird a bit more.
Just go to bunnings and get a length, doesn't need to be anything special.
 
Back
Top