Increasing Mash pH

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Yes the pH is surprisingly low. I added 100ppm calcium in the first two brews and got 5.1, and 200ppm calcium in the barley wine and got 5.0. I’m going to do a 2 point calibration of the pH meter at 4.0 and 6.86 next brew instead of just the one at 4.0 and see if that makes any difference.
I think you should always do a 2 point calibration
 
please tell me if you've done this before or doesn't work in beer..............
i've been experimenting using oyster shells in my rum washes.
i've been doing identical washes with & without oyster shells and logging the PH.
hanging 2 cups of shells in a hop sock and seeing how they buffer the PH.
works really well in rum washes.

No I haven't, historically Oyster stout was a thing but might have contained oysters or the shell in the clearing process.

Normally for beer once pH is set at the level we want for mashing it's not something we look at for any benefit.
 
It depends on your pH meter, lots of the cheap ones are only single point calibration capable, if you do a second point it promptly forgets the first one. That being the case just calibrate with the closest buffer you have.
Better quality meters fix the first point, then adjust the slope of the line between the first and second point. If you want to be technical it’s an application of y=mx+b, the first point sets b and the second adjusts m (gradient).

pH plays a huge role in brewing, not just in mashing and the kettle, perhaps a lot more important than most home brewers realise. Many commercial brewers monitor it as closely as they do SG even during fermentation, it gives you a lot of information on yeast health and even plays a major role on when to dry hop or rack beer.
Most blond beers should finish around 4.1pH give or take a point or two; it can have a big impact on the finished beer. pH also tells a brewer a lot about how well your processes ar working.
If you have a decent pH meter calibrate it at 4pH and do some trials, take three glasses of beer, adjust one up a couple of points, the other down the same and see if it affects the beer, in some beers it makes a startling difference, others not so much. I use Potassium Bicarbonate and Lactic acid respectively and it doesn’t take much so best to make a solution/dilution and add a little, stir gently, remember to stir the blank sample the same amount as the dissolved CO2 will change the taste to.
Mark
 
No I haven't, historically Oyster stout was a thing but might have contained oysters or the shell in the clearing process.

Normally for beer once pH is set at the level we want for mashing it's not something we look at for any benefit.
not really to do with an oyster stout, more for PH control.
the shells are used in the fermentation stage.
if the PH starts to drop, the acid dissolves the shell and maintains a PH of approx 5.
it's like an automatic PH control.
sometimes the wash will use 1/2 cup, or as little as 1/10 cup, or none, depending on the PH.
 
I think you’re right, but the KegLand video I saw said you only need do a one point calibration.
I have a KegLand one and its pretty good to be honest. Agree with MHB get a spare tip for it (very cheap) and store in solution. It goes mouldy very quick if you don't clean it well between washes.

I suggest Bru'n Water as a water calculator, it's been spot on for me and now that it's dialed in I hardly check the pH anymore. Probably every 2nd brew just to make sure or if i'm doing something out of the ordinary.

You can try top mashing to reduce the effect of low pH in the mash.

to add chalk to your mash you need to dissolve it in soda water. Then you use the solution to adjust your pH.
 
I used to do this until you and MHB convinced me it is a waste of time and effort
Yeah but you were doing it cart blanch, he's doing it for a very specific reason on a highly dark roasted beer which he wants a higher finishing pH for.

You were adding this and then adding lactic acid. Different strokes for different folks.
 

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