Home Brand Lager

[Yob]

He's right here. I'd bet he's the OP

cant be his spelling and grammer are too good...

regardless of content

 

[Lodan]

I use only one pack of S23, and yes the yeast is struggling, I can feel it. 2 packs? It would make sense. However have you noticed that with certain cans they would provide 15g and others only 5g..

If pitching dry, cold and without a starter it is recommended to pitch two packets (When doing a lager). Cold temps, lot's of fermentables and small yeast 'amount' (looking for the right word here) tend to lead to stalled lager ferments.

Kit yeasts are typically 7g and ale, in some cases a mixture of lager and ale and in a couple cases lager.
Ale is normally provided as most conditions are conducive to brewing ales (mainly temperature but sometimes gravity).

My recommendation would be to purchase another packet of S23, make a yeast starter then add the yeast to the beer. Throwing a dry pack into a half fermented beer may shock the new yeast and not get you anywhere. There is some helpful advice in the article section i believe.

I still think you need to post your ingredients for that brew. If you added more fermentables than you thought you did or added less water you may find that 1020 is the FG or very close. Better to check that first i think

First and foremost

 

[Pennywise]

Don't make a starter with dry yeasts, only rehydrate in warm water

 

[HoppingMad]

A few things to point out to Zipster here, he appears to be fairly new to the zoo that is AHB.

- Bribie knows his stuff and has been posting here for ages. Everyone has different ways to brew but his advice is sound. Your response didn't appear to be trying to cause offence anyhow, but thought I'd point this out to those jumping in on this one.

- Lager yeasts like an S23 do tend to work better with two packs in as suggested. The standard rule is one pack ale yeast, or two packs lager yeast. Reason being you need a yeast cell count higher for a low temp ferment beer. Starters for lagers are generally recommended for this reason regardless of dry or liquid but you can rehydrate as suggested by Pennywise and you will still get a solid result. Dry Lager Yeasts do carry instructions from manufacturers just to rehydrate but you can work it either way to the same end. Again - plenty of ways to skin the cat.

- Homebrand kits are made for the lowest common denominator h34r: - that's why they're called homebrand. That's also why they would carry an all-purpose ale yeast (i'd suspect) that would take off fairly well at warm temps. Just because it takes off well and you get solid airlock bubbling doesn't mean the resulting beer will be awesome. The proof as they say is in the tasting. Yes I have brewed with Homebrand kits and they are over bittered in my opinion.

- A solid amount of bubbling airlock activity does not necessarily a good beer make. Often a slower ferment at a cooler temp can result in a cleaner result. Most commercial beers you would like brew this way. That's why they taste so clean.

Like all things everyone has their own way. Listen to all the monkeys in this zoo, then find your own path through the jungle. Good luck with it.

Hopper.

 

[Zipster]

Zipster is a real bloke. I have met him.

I'm not sure he's great at reading or taking advice but I'm pretty certain he isn't trolling.

Mate, I have been involved in Internet forums of all sorts since 1997 and I always been called all sorts of names, I don't really take note of that anymore.

I take the advice I judge making sense, if it does not.. well I put it on the side. There is a lot of disinformation regarding every topic of anything you can think of, more than actual information.. did you know that.

 

[manticle]

Bribie's advice is generally very sound.

My name for you is Zip.

 

[big78sam]

Mate, I have been involved in Internet forums of all sorts since 1997 and I always been called all sorts of names, I don't really take note of that anymore.

I take the advice I judge making sense, if it does not.. well I put it on the side. There is a lot of disinformation regarding every topic of anything you can think of, more than actual information.. did you know that.

You could be right, but of course if you feel that way then why ask the question in the first place...

There is definitely misinformation on this forum and I would propose that some of your comments above have added to this. However, I'd suggest you listen to some of the very experienced brewers like Bribie for good information

 

[Zipster]

If pitching dry, cold and without a starter it is recommended to pitch two packets (When doing a lager). Cold temps, lot's of fermentables and small yeast 'amount' (looking for the right word here) tend to lead to stalled lager ferments.

This is what I did, and that is what happened sir.

Kit yeasts are typically 7g and ale, in some cases a mixture of lager and ale and in a couple cases lager.

The yeast provided with that Stout kit was a 15g "English ale yeast" on the pack they recommended temperatures too high for the season.

Mixing yeasts? Now that's interesting, I suppose some would be more compatible than others am I right?

My recommendation would be to purchase another packet of S23, make a yeast starter then add the yeast to the beer. Throwing a dry pack into a half fermented beer may shock the new yeast and not get you anywhere. There is some helpful advice in the article section i believe.

There are no shops near where I am so I will filter the yeast I harvest from that stout when it's done.

I still think you need to post your ingredients for that brew. If you added more fermentables than you thought you did or added less water you may find that 1020 is the FG or very close. Better to check that first i think

Well, 1 can of Morgan's Stout Chairman Selection, 1kg of plain sugar, 15g of S23 Saflager.. that's the lot. I am at 1020 but it still tastes a bit sugary, shall I bottle it anyway.

The Home Brand was at 1010 yesterday, the label says not to bottle it if it is over 1005. What do I do?

 

[Lodan]

Mixing yeasts? Now that's interesting, I suppose some would be more compatible than others am I right?

There are no shops near where I am so I will filter the yeast I harvest from that stout when it's done.

Well, 1 can of Morgan's Stout Chairman Selection, 1kg of plain sugar, 15g of S23 Saflager.. that's the lot. I am at 1020 but it still tastes a bit sugary, shall I bottle it anyway.

The Home Brand was at 1010 yesterday, the label says not to bottle it if it is over 1005. What do I do?

There could be two purposes for mixed yeast. one to make sure that the beer brews (if too cold the lager does most work, too warm the ale will take most of the work) or for a different ferment profile, though i'm not exactly sure what the outcome would be.

I'm not entirely sure i got my point across. You say that you will filter your yeast from the stout when it's done, but that's the beer that has stalled isn't it? so it won't be done till you add more yeast If S23 isn't available try to get some other, inoffensive yeast to do the rest of the work. I guess it's been in the fermenter for 2 to 3 weeks now so best to finish it off as soon as you can.

I assume you added 23L of water to the stout kit. if so then you should expect the gravity to drop below 1020. Not sure the estimated FG, don't have the K&E spreadsheet on me (plugs Ianh).

Give the home brand a bit longer

Edit:
Are you correcting your gravity readings for temperature?

 

[Zipster]

- Homebrand kits are made for the lowest common denominator h34r: - that's why they're called homebrand. That's also why they would carry an all-purpose ale yeast (i'd suspect) that would take off fairly well at warm temps.

Well this HB yeast has been going very steady, and even more steady than any yeast I have tried so far, even now it is only 14c in there and it bubbles like a metronome every 20s. Nice and slow, but steady, I like that. I'm thinking of breeding this one and to try it on other kits.

But we will see if its clean after 2 weeks in bottles, let's not jump the gun. Thus, I have tasted yesterday and was very clean.. I'm optimistic upon this batch.

 

[Zipster]

I'm not entirely sure i got my point across. You say that you will filter your yeast from the stout when it's done, but that's the beer that has stalled isn't it? so it won't be done till you add more yeast

I have read a paper about cleaning yeast after a batch, they make 2 batches out of one. So If I make 1 batch out of 1 it's like double isn't it. I can try to dope it with some of that home brand one, but what if there is too much yeast, would it be a problem.

Are you correcting your gravity readings for temperature?

Does it make a real difference? Any info about that?

 

[petesbrew]

"The yeast provided with that Stout kit was a 15g "English ale yeast" on the pack they recommended temperatures too high for the season."

Not necessarily. You said you've got a room that's 22c for a fair bit of the day. Even if the temperature drops off, it's not like 23L of liquid's going to drop exactly with air temperature.
I've brewed ales at 16c... sure they're slow, but patience is an important factor in this hobby/passion/obsession.

I haven't tried the Morgans Stout, but personally I reckon you've ruined it by using sugar. It'll end up too thin. I'd even bet Twocanning with the HB lager in it would've been a better move.
If you're into lagers, next time try the Morgans Blue Mountain Lager, with malt. Even if the HBS is too far, you might still pick up Saunders malt from the supermarket. Or purchase from the sponsor.

Hope it turns out.
p.s. Airlocks sound and look cool, but they're no measuring device.

 

[Lodan]

Does it make a real difference? Any info about that?

Hydrometers are typically calibrated at 20degC, so any measurement at a different temperature requires correction. The difference depends on how far out you are. 19 or 21 would make no significant difference. 24 and 16 may see a couple of point difference

 

[humulus]

Hi dude i'm not exactly sure what this topic is about but i'll try and answer.



I've had a couple of ferments complete with no airlock activity. Not one single bubble. Turns out the rubber o-ring wasn't seated properly. My beer fermented and turned out fine though....plenty of co2 and alcohol produced. I have since given up on air locks and use glad wrap instead of a lid. To find out how the fermentation is progressing i use a hydrometer.

To me the flavour of the finished beer is more important than how quickly it ferments.

I have also experimented with fermenting beer with large changes in temperature and have endend up with off flavours.

My mates dad spins all sorts of shit and i don't listen to him.

cheers

Im with the Mayor!!!

 

[bignath]

The Home Brand was at 1010 yesterday, the label says not to bottle it if it is over 1005. What do I do?

For starters, i'd stop reading the labels on the back of extract cans...

There are lots of situations where a recipe won't go down that low. Many brewers prefer their beers DON'T go that low.

If your getting identical gravity readings over 2/3 days, i'd bottle it. Most of my beers finish around 1010-1008.

The coopers tins recommend fermenting at around 26/28 degrees or something. Unless your stepping out of the regular ales, and lagers to do something more exotic, this will make shit beer everytime.
It's not in Coopers or Homebrands best interest for you to make DECENT beer at home, otherwise you'd never go to the bottle shop and buy their commercial products.
You can however make very, very good beer (award winners actually) using cans, it's just that if you follow the directions on the labels of a lot of them, you'll end up with crap every time.

Listen to the advice that the more experienced and knowledgeable here give you and you'll make great beer.

 

[Zipster]

I haven't tried the Morgans Stout, but personally I reckon you've ruined it by using sugar. It'll end up too thin. I'd even bet Twocanning with the HB lager in it would've been a better move.

Why? Please explain.

 

[drtomc]

The reason why sugar won't be so good for your Stout is that it ferments out completely leaving nothing behind but alcohol. By contrast, malt does not ferment completely, and leaves behind a bunch of stuff which lends body and flavour to your beer. For some styles, too much body ruins the experince, so sugar can be a useful contributer, but a stout is different. For a stout you want the body, the richness, that you get from malt.

cheers,
T.

 

[scooza]

hi to all, is it just me or is everyone confused. i am a newbie but look for help from all. is the zipster a newbie or old school? my old man loves generic homebrew and can't change him. why ask a question if you don't want answers or help or shoot down the help? sounds like an ex mate of mine a wanker that knows it all.

 

[going down a hill]

I wouldn't say everyone is confused, there has been some good info in this topic.

On another note I would have to say that your post does have a flammability factor of 5.

 

[scooza]

i am all for the advice don't get me wrong just confused with the OP hope to put the fire out as i'm always up for advice
not saying all are confused. love bribe g's advice just seems tha a few small minds are coming on board lately looking for help but unable to recieve it.