Gas and Burners

Australia & New Zealand Homebrewing Forum

Help Support Australia & New Zealand Homebrewing Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Glot

Well-Known Member
Joined
10/8/13
Messages
365
Reaction score
59
Location
Rockvegas
Just for those that don't know, some general info about gas and burners. I haven't read anything in here similar but if there is, please forgive me.
Gas: There are three common types. LPG, Butane, Natural. The first two come in canisters/ cylinders in liquefied form. Natural gas comes from via pipes in gaseous form. It is basically the same gas as the other natural gas....Methane.
All gases have an additive in them to make them stink so they may be detected by nose down to 1/5 the level needed for combustion.
Natural gas is lighter than air. It floats up. Propane ( LPG) and Butane are heavier than air. They accumulate in depressions, on the floor or in drains. It flows downhill like water would. Remember these characteristics when you have a gas leak.
Propane boils at a lower temperature then Butane. So at room temperature, the pressure in a container is higher for LPG than Butane. This is why Butane can be stored in tin cans. However, butane will not vaporise at low temperatures, ie zero degrees Celsius.

Burners are generally rated in Mj. The higher the energy output, the more it can heat. The actual temperature of the flame is the same for the same type of gas. LPG burns at about 1300 deg from memory. Enough to burn your fingers anyway.
However, how well a burner heats something is not just its rated output.
When a gas flame is used to heat something, an insulating film of air forms on the surface of the object. This is called the barrier layer. By reducing this barrier layer, heating efficiency is greatly increased. Some common examples are the "MAP" gas blow torch. MAP gas hasn't been manufactured for years but a modified propane is used. It is only slightly better than normal propane. However, by improving burner design, the heating efficiency is greatly improved. They create a rough turbulent flame which helps break down the barrier layer.
Chinese cooking tables ( Wok burners) have a similar design. The ducks foot burner creates a turbulent swirling flame. The turbo wok burner uses forced air from a blower to create a very turbulent flame. Same temperature and rated output but cooks the stir fry a lot quicker. I have heard of turbo wok burners with an output of 200 Mj. Designs in pot bases can also help over come this barrier layer a bit.
The performance of a burner is more than just it's output rating.
If you are going to use a high output burner from a cylinder, the cylinder needs to be big enough for sufficient vaporisation to occur at the ambient temperature. A poor burning flame creates a lot of carbon monoxide. Do not just sit the cylinder closer to the burner to warm it up a bit.
Gas comes in cylinders. Coke comes in bottles.
 
Foot note. called the burner a ducks foot for some reason. Duck bill is the correct name. Also, I should have been more correct and said the burner output rating is Mj/h. I was just being lazy.
 
I wasn't trying to be too technical or accurate. My main aim was to point out that Mj/h is not the only thing to look at when choosing a burner. Anyone that wants to correct my inaccuracies or deficiencies, I take no offence. Knowledge is power. No one has total power.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top