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Hi Practical F,

Just to be clear, the toohey's can likely tells the brewer to mix it with 1kg sugar or dextrose, which would give an FG of 1006-1007. Coopers BE2 is different. Check out the link i posted to Ian's spreadsheet, really is a great help and i use it for all of my kit brews :)

Lodan

Edit: what is an accidental cider?
 
Bottling at 1.016 sounds dangerous to me...kaboom. I'd leave it on the yeast for another week, if it's still ok then another week won't hurt it - if it's infected then bottling now won't save it.

:icon_offtopic:
what is an accidental cider?

A bottle of apple juice you forgot to put in the fridge? Hooch-tastic!
 
bottle of apple juice you forgot to put in the fridge? Hooch-tastic!
heeheehee, yes, but I know it got infected by wine yeast as I was using this bottle to prime my intentional cider ;) tasted awesome :)))

PS: thnx for reminding me abt the spreadsheet. I'm gonna work this one out as a test problem for myself.
 
Hi Practical F,

Just to be clear, the toohey's can likely tells the brewer to mix it with 1kg sugar or dextrose, which would give an FG of 1006-1007. Coopers BE2 is different. Check out the link i posted to Ian's spreadsheet, really is a great help and i use it for all of my kit brews :)

Lodan

Edit: what is an accidental cider?


Thanks for all your help. I decided to give the brew a swirl and leave it just a little longer. I downloaded the spreadsheet but dont know how to use it correctly - what is EBC and IBU?

Also in an earlier post i was asked what the film looked liked - its not foamy but rather like ice forming on water, very thin and sticky. Hope this is ok.
 
EBC (European Brewing Convention) is the colour the higher the number the darker the beer.
IBU (International Bitterness Units), again higher number = more bitter.

I have a theory that the kit producers also put optimistically low figure on the cans to protect themselves against people having bottle bombs and claiming the manufacturer's at fault.
 
Thanks for all your help. I decided to give the brew a swirl and leave it just a little longer. I downloaded the spreadsheet but dont know how to use it correctly - what is EBC and IBU?

Also in an earlier post i was asked what the film looked liked - its not foamy but rather like ice forming on water, very thin and sticky. Hope this is ok.
Something that might help you, I just noticed that the empty fermenter I have sitting next to the one that my '1016' beer is in is 2 degrees lower in temperature than the fermenter. Just says that the yeast is still kicking a bit :).. maybe. haha. Isn't it fun watching the darn beerd grow!
 
Something that might help you, I just noticed that the empty fermenter I have sitting next to the one that my '1016' beer is in is 2 degrees lower in temperature than the fermenter. Just says that the yeast is still kicking a bit :) .. maybe. haha. Isn't it fun watching the darn beerd grow!

It could just be that the empty fermenter is more susceptible to temperature fluctuations, ie. It was 20 degs during the day and your full fermenter was able to warm up slowly all day, as soon as the temperature drops for the night, your full fermenter will have a much slower decline in temp, while the empty one will show temperature changes quite quickly.
 
It could just be that the empty fermenter is more susceptible to temperature fluctuations, ie. It was 20 degs during the day and your full fermenter was able to warm up slowly all day, as soon as the temperature drops for the night, your full fermenter will have a much slower decline in temp, while the empty one will show temperature changes quite quickly.
quite true...

I must be honest then, it wasn't really empty :p It had some nappisan water in it because I transferred the wort out of this one to the other yesterday evening and left it to soak.. haha. but yeah, you know what I meant.. lol
 
The effects of different ingredients on your brew:
Dextrose adds no exra flavour or body to your brew, only alcohol.
Malt (either dried or liquid) adds body, flavour and alcohol to your brew.
Maltodextrin adds body and some sweetness to your brew.

Can anybody give me any more info on the differences between malt and maltodextrin please?
 
The "malt" part of the name maltodextrin is perhaps misleading, as it isn't made from malt but from maize, wheat and even potatoes as a food additive - Wikipedia tells all - ;) Dextrins as a class are non fermentable long chain carbs are in fact formed during the mashing of grains in beer making and give the beer body, mouthfeel and foaming. Maltodextrin is similar to those dextrins and can be snuck into a beer to carry out similar functions to the dextrins you would be producing in a full mash recipe, and can do a fairly good job of mimicking their properties. However too much and the beer can get a soapy or slimy character.

In my kit n kilo days I used a fair bit of Coopers Brew Enhancer 2 which has maltodextrin in it, and it definitely beats using just a kilo of dex or white sugar.
 
hi guys, halp please!

i've just bought myself a new coopers micro-brew kit, and the mix is a coopers "lager" and i've read about how if its a true lager then the temp needs to be lower, and to check the yeast packet that came with it....

however my yeast packet only says "coopers brewing yeast 7g net" and doesn't mention if its a lager or ale yeast

am i safe to assume being supermarket quality and everything that it IS infact an ale yeast and i can keep at the higher temp range?

also, anyone up-to-date on where to get those 100-can-cooler things? I can't seem to find any reference to them anywhere on the internet....even a general price range? if i'm gonna be spending $50 or more, i'd prob rather upgrade to spending about $200 or so on a 2nd hand bar fridge and a thermostat thingy

cheers
matt
 
hi guys, halp please!

i've just bought myself a new coopers micro-brew kit, and the mix is a coopers "lager" and i've read about how if its a true lager then the temp needs to be lower, and to check the yeast packet that came with it....

however my yeast packet only says "coopers brewing yeast 7g net" and doesn't mention if its a lager or ale yeast

am i safe to assume being supermarket quality and everything that it IS infact an ale yeast and i can keep at the higher temp range?

also, anyone up-to-date on where to get those 100-can-cooler things? I can't seem to find any reference to them anywhere on the internet....even a general price range? if i'm gonna be spending $50 or more, i'd prob rather upgrade to spending about $200 or so on a 2nd hand bar fridge and a thermostat thingy

cheers
matt


The Coopers International Series Euro Lager (green Can) has a true lager yeast but produces a very clean result at 18C-19C
Also needs to be left to condition in the bottle for at least 6 weeks. (I have picked up 5x medals with this can, so I reckon it rocks)

The Coopers Australian Series Lager (white can) is just a regular ale yeast something like Safbrew S33. Ferments at nearly any temp and still makes **** beer

The Tommas Coopers Heritage Lager (black can) has a ale yeast in it and ferments at 2C nicely
Cant help with can cooler ...sorry
 
The Coopers International Series Euro Lager (green Can) has a true lager yeast but produces a very clean result at 18C-19C
Also needs to be left to condition in the bottle for at least 6 weeks. (I have picked up 5x medals with this can, so I reckon it rocks)

The Coopers Australian Series Lager (white can) is just a regular ale yeast something like Safbrew S33. Ferments at nearly any temp and still makes **** beer

The Tommas Coopers Heritage Lager (black can) has a ale yeast in it and ferments at 2C nicely
Cant help with can cooler ...sorry

I've got a white can with a green ring at the bottom, and it says "Original series Australian coopers lager" so i guess thats the 2nd one you mentioned above and i'm in for a terrible beer!!! i didn't expect any less straight out of the box to be honest

thanks for your help
 
I've got a white can with a green ring at the bottom, and it says "Original series Australian coopers lager" so i guess thats the 2nd one you mentioned above and i'm in for a terrible beer!!! i didn't expect any less straight out of the box to be honest

thanks for your help

Negative Nancy!

Ensure cleanliness and sanitisation, keep the brewing beer under about 20 degrees, and assuming this is your first ever homebrew, I guarantee you this will be the best beer you've ever made ;)
 
Hey dude, as for the can cooler...try the esky/icebox section at Kmart/BigW. Mind you if you have a lazy $200 and are going to jump in with both feet then grab the secondhand fridge, a brewing fridge is still missing from my setup and it is something that I really envy.
 
I got 1 fridge for free holds a fermenter and a cube. Second fridge cost $30 and holds 2 fermenters, keg chest freezer cost $50 and holds 4 kegs. So you can get it for heaps under $200 as I just run the ebay temp controllers like $35 each. just keep a eye out on ebay I some times ask people that put new bids up what they like as they some times want it gone yesterday so they just go $50 cash pickup tomorrow its yours lol then they take the listing off.
 
I've got a white can with a green ring at the bottom, and it says "Original series Australian coopers lager" so i guess thats the 2nd one you mentioned above and i'm in for a terrible beer!!! i didn't expect any less straight out of the box to be honest

thanks for your help


Sorry, It's not that bad but it aint the best.
Keep the ferment at a steady 22-24C and use some hop pellets (dry) after about 5 dyas fermenting, Hallertau, Spalt, Saaz or even Cascade for a better end result- more aroma.
Also dont use cane sugar. Use Dry malt blend like Brew enhancer 2.
Happy Brewing!
 
regarding the temp control, some aldi stores still have wine cooler fridges for $149.
if i recall correctly, temp range is 7-18degC
 
I got 1 fridge for free holds a fermenter and a cube. Second fridge cost $30 and holds 2 fermenters, keg chest freezer cost $50 and holds 4 kegs. So you can get it for heaps under $200 as I just run the ebay temp controllers like $35 each. just keep a eye out on ebay I some times ask people that put new bids up what they like as they some times want it gone yesterday so they just go $50 cash pickup tomorrow its yours lol then they take the listing off.

what do you search for on ebay for the temp controllers?

cheers
 
Sorry, It's not that bad but it aint the best.
Keep the ferment at a steady 22-24C and use some hop pellets (dry) after about 5 dyas fermenting, Hallertau, Spalt, Saaz or even Cascade for a better end result- more aroma.
Also dont use cane sugar. Use Dry malt blend like Brew enhancer 2.
Happy Brewing!

great thanks for the help
 
Hey dude, as for the can cooler...try the esky/icebox section at Kmart/BigW. Mind you if you have a lazy $200 and are going to jump in with both feet then grab the secondhand fridge, a brewing fridge is still missing from my setup and it is something that I really envy.

hmm how much would a cooler cost that was big enough?

i just checked my local bunnings and the biggest they had was 20L which was no where near big enough and still cost $35 i think

weighing up $50 or more on a cooler, or $100-$200 on a fridge setup....
 
what do you search for on ebay for the temp controllers?

cheers

You'll see that many people are happy with the STC-1000 temperature controller which can be had from ebay for about $30-$35 (incl postage). The unit is actually an aquarium thermometer that can handle a cooling and heating circut. Be aware that it needs to be mounted in some sort of jiffy box and wired before you can use it.

There's a fair bit of info floating around on the forum on how to do this but many of the guides recommend that if you aren't confident with your elecrics then it's best to find someone who is to do it for you.

I've just got my unit up and running and it's awesome to know that your brew is sitting at steady at the ideal temperature!
 
You'll see that many people are happy with the STC-1000 temperature controller which can be had from ebay for about $30-$35 (incl postage). The unit is actually an aquarium thermometer that can handle a cooling and heating circut. Be aware that it needs to be mounted in some sort of jiffy box and wired before you can use it.

There's a fair bit of info floating around on the forum on how to do this but many of the guides recommend that if you aren't confident with your elecrics then it's best to find someone who is to do it for you.

I've just got my unit up and running and it's awesome to know that your brew is sitting at steady at the ideal temperature!

no chance. i'll have to look into something like this: https://daveshomebrew.com.au/index.php?opti...8&Itemid=99

does anyone know if these are any cheaper elsewhere?

and has anyone tried those heating pads?
 
i have brewed two batches of Coopers Canadian blonde and used the instructions as per can ,both have been excellent.. :icon_offtopic:
 
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