Frequently Asked Questions For The New Brewer

[bignath]

When you guys check you SG and FG do you guys remove the airlock? i am bit worried about infections.... I am some time lax on cleaning and sterilizing.
quote]

Why would you remove the airlock??? ....unless your fermenting in a glass carboy, but i doubt it.

Use the tap dude! Take a sample straight out the tap, into your hydro sample tube. You'll have to be going fairly hard to get the water from your airlock suck back into your beer, assuming you filled it to the line like they are supposed to be and not overfilled.
Taking the airlock out is a potential infection risk. Not a definite, but a risk. There is a layer of co2 over the top of your beer during active fermentation, but i still wouldn't do it.
Seriously perplexed by this question.

 

[Diesel80]

Why would you remove the airlock??? ....unless your fermenting in a glass carboy, but i doubt it.

Use the tap dude! Take a sample straight out the tap, into your hydro sample tube. You'll have to be going fairly hard to get the water from your airlock suck back into your beer, assuming you filled it to the line like they are supposed to be and not overfilled.
Taking the airlock out is a potential infection risk. Not a definite, but a risk. There is a layer of co2 over the top of your beer during active fermentation, but i still wouldn't do it.
Seriously perplexed by this question.

Big Nath,

I just put my first brew down about 3 weeks ago, 30L fermenter filled to 21L, first sample i took sucked water in from the airlock as i drained some from the tap to the sample jar. Subsequent samples were taken with removal of the airlock to prevent this happening. Either way i got airlock water into my brew and removed the airlock about 3 further times for additional samples, luckily the brew was not infected either way!

Taking a sample from the tap without removing the airlock can be done. The trick is to take your sample in stages, draw some out the tap and watch the airlock, as the water gets sucked into 1 side of the S-Bend closest to the entry of the fermenter, then close the tap. Let fermentation equalize water in the airlock again, then draw off some more. Repeat until you have enough to float your hydrometer.

I will be trying it this way for next brew to avoid removing the airlock and exposing brew unnecessarily.

 

[Glenn Brown]

Fish13 - You will find some brewers just use a few good layers of Glad wrap and a lacky band instead of the lid and air lock. After several beers I sometime forget to loosen the lid on my fermenter when taking a reading and the water in the air lock gets sucked straight back in. You would think I would have learnt my leason the first time but nope.

 

[MaltyHops]

... first sample i took sucked water in from the airlock as i drained some from the tap to the sample jar. Subsequent samples were taken with removal of the airlock to prevent this happening. Either way i got airlock water into my brew and removed the airlock about 3 further times for additional samples, luckily the brew was not infected either way!

Taking a sample from the tap without removing the airlock can be done. The trick is to take your sample in stages, draw some out the tap and watch the airlock, as the water gets sucked into 1 side of the S-Bend closest to the entry of the fermenter, then close the tap. Let fermentation equalize water in the airlock again, then draw off some more. Repeat until you have enough to float your hydrometer.

I will be trying it this way for next brew to avoid removing the airlock and exposing brew unnecessarily.

Hiya Diesel,

Firstly, are you filling the airlock to the standard "halfway-up-each-bulb" watermark
of the s-bend type? I can see why you could easily get airlock water suck in the beer
if so. I normally fill mine with enough liquid** to fill up the bottom s-bend tube and
about 5mm above the tube in each of the bulbs and this is enough for it to function.
[** I and others put some sanitiser in with the airlock liquid as a precaution]

The more you fill up the airlock, the more prone to sucking liquid into the beer when
you pour from the fermenter tap. And a faster pour from the tap will also tend to suck
water through - if you turn the tap on just a little for a slow flow and then increase
until the airlock reverse bubbling starts to get too much might be a way to find out
how far to push it.

You might want to consider getting a refractomenter SG reader that only needs about
a teaspoon of wort/beer to check the SG/OG/FG. Only thing is you need to be aware
that readings from a refractometer needs to be corrected once alcohol has been made
in your beer - e.g. if my OG was 1.062 say, once the refractometer indicates the SG
level is down to 1.030, the actual SG level is down to 1.010 - see Refractometer
Sg-alcohol Correction Chart. Also, yeast in the sample will cause the refrac'
reading to be fuzzy so need to put sample in a fridge for 10 mins or so before taking
the reading.

T.

 

[Nicko_Cairns]

Some Cheap Ways of Maintaining Fermentation Temperatures

When starting brewing, one of the most important steps to acheive is correct and constant fermentation temperature. Several ways of doing this exist from simply using wet towells or ice baths through to having dedicated fermentation fridges. The above either do not work very well or can be simply impractical so here's a few ways you can use that do work...

100 Can Cooler One cheap way is to purchase a 100 Can Cooler and use frozen bottles of salted water or freezer/heat blocks on rotation to maintain temperatures. Here's some pictures of a 100 Can Cooler which is available from KMart, at time of writing for $30...

View attachment 6619
View attachment 6620
View attachment 6621

The 100 Can Cooler will hold a 25 litre fermenter nicely although, you will have to cut a 5 cm slot in the center of the top so as your airlock can poke through and you can observe fermentation activity. Make sure you place the slit in the centre as this enables your air-lock to poke through no matter how you position the fermenter in the Cooler. You can also use a blow-off tube although many plastic hoses will kink and just cause you trouble. There are no disadvantages to the airlock, such as heat-loss, so I would stick with the 5cm slot and air-lock. (Doing so will also allow you to use the Cooler as a party keg cooler.)

The temperature of your fermenter can be maintained quite well by a morning, afternoon and night rotation of freezer/heat blocks or soft drink bottles filled with salted water. (Salted water has a lower freezing point.) To give you an idea, I have used 4x750ml freezer blocks rotated as above in ambient temperatures averaging 28 degrees to keep the fermenter at 19 degrees.

To enable you to take hydrometer readings, it is a good idea to sit the 100 Can Cooler (with fermenter) on a bucket or something similiar. To take the reading, collapse the cooler and you can access the tap easily.

An Old Fridge that Works If you have this, then you should seriously consider using a controller to keep the fridge at a constant fermenation temperature. A basic controller will cost you about $30. (Try a Ranco VB7 Replacement Thermostat Beverage Cooler from Ozspares.) These come with a knob and probe and require some expertise to install. Adjusting these to a set temperature may take you a few days. Once you have achieved the temperature you require, you should mark that point on the knob. For an easier to use controller, you can try a Grow Warm Controller from hydroponics supplies for about $110 or serach here on AHB for, 'digital controllers.'

An old fridge that works is definitely the ducks nuts when it comes to ales as you can utilise the extra space to condition your beer. Unfortunately, this advantage is not applicable to lager brewers as conditioning (lagering) temperatures are 7 or 8 degrees lower than fermenting temperatures.

An Old Fridge that Does Not Function These will provide better insulation than the Cooler but then again you have to keep a larger volume of air cool. Once again, this method will be far better suited to ale brewers as you could be fermenting and conditioning several brews in the one space.

An Esky If you already have an esky on hand that will hold your fermenter (just stand the esky on its end as in the picture below) then that will give you even better results than the 100 Can Cooler. You should be able to reduce any, "ice," rotations to once a day as the insulation is as good as a fridge and the volume of space you have to cool is far less. [Am currently experimenting and having favourable results with directly connecting an esky to a standard fridge though the same principle could be used for the Cooler.]

View attachment 6622

Light Bulb and Timer To keep things warm put your fermenter in a confined space such as a small cupboard. You can then purchase a portable lamp and hang it safely in the space so that it is away from plastic/wood etc. Using a $4 timer from Bunnings, you can experiment with turning the bulb (use 100w) on and off for certain periods to obtain your ideal temperature.

A Warning on Rotation of Freezer Blocks - Constantly opening a non frost-free freezer in a humid climate will quickly ice your freezer up. Defrosting a freezer every 3 weeks can be a little annoying!

CREDITS: Roach who originally posted the 100 Can Cooler. GMK for advice on Grow Warm Controller.

GOLD, thanks!

 

[PhilipB]

Thanks for this thread

I did this tonight with my ginger beer that I started tonight:



Will keep a eye on the temperature.

 

[machalel]

Hi Guys,

Quite helpful thread, I used a few of the tips recently.
I started my first batch last weekend (Sparkling Amber Ale), just a K&K, but obviously starting simple.
I'm actually only using 1/2 the kit (with 1/2 the water obviously), and then pitching the other half with a small amount of added malt & brown sugar to see the difference between the two.

I must be lucky, as my temperatures are fairly steady at 16/17 overnight (ambient ~14) & 18/19 (ambient ~29) during the day. My fermenter is just in the laundry sink (water up the the 'beer line') and covered with a damp towel. No ice or anything!
I might end up getting the 100-can cooler or esky (if i can find a cheap one) though, as I'm a bit paranoid about picking up an infection through the tap area. I've put several plastic bags over the tap (with sanitiser in them), and tied it off. I took a reading the other day, and the tap was still semi-dry so it shouldnt be too much of a worry as long as I sanitise it all before bottling right? :unsure:

I'm getting a plastic jerry can from bunnings ($10) to experiment with some racking/secondary fermentation, and was wondering... Do you normally do this at what would be normal "bottling" time? or earlier?

 

[Wobles]

Hi all,

Another noob here, this is the only thread I've read so far but loving the amount of knowledge and experiance available. I am sticking to Kits for now but would still like to experiment and add to what I brew. A little history;

I got my fermenter kit (Tooheys) about 3weeks ago and the 1st brew, the included beer, will be at it's minimal drinking age this week coming. Everything seems to be going great and it tasted ok when sampling the grav and when bottling. I have that beer in half glass and half PET as well as some with carb drops and the rest with sugar for the secondary fermentation (thoughts?). I find the PET bottles good for giving a bit of a squeeze test for checking pressure. The next few days are going to be a long wait any way. :wacko:

Otherwise I also just bottled a ginger beer, again everything seems good, and have another ginger in the fermenter. I know I may be rushing things a little but I want to get a cycle of 4 brews going at any time so I can let some age more or less depending on how they turn out, as well as have a few options to quench my thirst :beer:

Now to pick your experienced brains,
favourite beer = James Squires "150 Lashes" (a Pale Ale); What kit and (I'm assuming) additives would set me on that path?
favourite ginger beer = "Ginger Beard" (from the same guys who make Hobgoblin) kits, additives, recipes? I thought I found an interesting G.B. recipe when I 1st found this forum but I haven't been able to find it again ... yet

What is racking?
What are these cubes I read so much about?

Thnx in advance,
Wobles

 

[MaltyHops]

Hi all,

Another noob here, ...

Now to pick your experienced brains,
favourite beer = James Squires "150 Lashes" (a Pale Ale); What kit and (I'm assuming) additives would set me on that path?
...
Wobles

Well, wellcome first of all. There are a bunch of pages linked from my sig below
that in turn link to many threads that new brewers have been known to be
interested in. The Prep page actually has a link to a thread relating to copying
the 150 Lashes with K'n'K.

 

[kelbygreen]

TBH you wont make a commercial beer with a kit, Sorry but you just cant, you may get close but it will never be the same. Even with AG it is very hard to make the same beer as you cannot replicate there recipe you cannot get the exact malts and hops sometimes and you can only guess what yeast they use if its even available to the public.

I am not saying dont try I am just saying dont be disappointed with yourself if its not the same. With kits and extract the beer will be sweeter so you need to use some dextrose and you are starting with a pre hopped kit so you will get a different bitterness but if you can find the hops to use late you may get close.

 

[crd0902]

Hey wobles, racking is where you drain your beer from one fermenter to another either for lagering at cold temp or for bulk priming where people add the sugar to the whole brew rather than separate bottles, also if your leaving your beer to chill for a longer period some say it's an idea to get it off the yeast cake or it can turn bad. I think cubes are basically water geri cans like from bunnings that all grain brewers make their wort up, pour it in these, squeeze the air out and can store them for some time before they pitch the yeast. I think that's the idea anyway. As for your recipes, I can't help with that I just make up kits and bits and don't bother trying to mimmick other. We're as you get some bloody good beers by doin your own stuff. One thing I will add is look into temp control. You should be aiming at about 18 C for ales and about 13 C for lagers while they ferment. Tastes better in the end. And don't rush your brewing. Make sure they are finished. All the best

Chris

 

[Wobles]

Thnx fellas.
Malty ... that is a crazy amount of info and I'll try and get through it before asking too many more questions.
Kelby ... I fully accept that I wont be able to make a perfect replica. Knowing what I like, I was hoping someone could give me tips for experimentation to gain some understanding of flavours etc.
crd ... yes I have to get better temp control. I have been storing my fermenter in a broom cupboard but it certainly has been a bit too warm

 

[bacardi]

Hi all, I'm now on my third ever brew (Muntons Canadian) and have got a question on whether or not I've got an infected fermenter.
Prior to pitching I added a 25gr tea bag of Centennial and a 25gr tea bag of Cascade hops. The aroma has been quite pleasing.
This evening however, amongst the happy white bubbles is a brown stain spreading out from the tea bags and the aroma isn't quite as satisfying.
The SG is coming down (1032) and I thought I could taste the hint of rancid orange from sampling tube.
As a noob, what are the signs of a tainted ferment and how long does it take to present?
Thanks.

 

[glenwal]

Hi all, I'm now on my third ever brew (Muntons Canadian) and have got a question on whether or not I've got an infected fermenter.
Prior to pitching I added a 25gr tea bag of Centennial and a 25gr tea bag of Cascade hops. The aroma has been quite pleasing.
This evening however, amongst the happy white bubbles is a brown stain spreading out from the tea bags and the aroma isn't quite as satisfying.
The SG is coming down (1032) and I thought I could taste the hint of rancid orange from sampling tube.
As a noob, what are the signs of a tainted ferment and how long does it take to present?
Thanks.

The brown stain is just the hop oils and is normal - nothing to worry about.

How are you "testing" the aroma? Are you taking the lid off the fermenter? If so a) don't - or you will get an infected batch and B) you're probably getting a nose full of CO2 - which is definately not pleasing.

As for the taste, are you tipping out the 1st sample and drawing a second? If your tasting the first sample you take, it probably has the trub/dregs from the bottom of the fermenter - which don't really taste nice.

Also, theres no need to keep taking samples during the ferment - all your doing is wasting beer. Patience is a big part of making beer. Leave it be for a week or two, then come back and take a measurement. If its where you expect your FG to be, leave it another couple of days and check again. If they are the same, then leave it another week before bottling.

 

[bacardi]

Thanks Glen. A happy skid mark.

How are you "testing" the aroma?

By sniffing the top of the air lock

As for the taste, are you tipping out the 1st sample and drawing a second?

No, just swilling back hydro tube contents.


I can see how being patient is the key to having seveal brews at different stages of development!

 

[hsb]

Patience is definitely the key to a lot of homebrewing.
So long as you are sanitary, you're unlikely to have an infection. Just sit tight and let the gravity drop, it's no problem to leave the beer in fermenter for a couple of weeks.
Unless it tastes rancid, still fermenting beer is not much of a guide to end product until you get used to tastes/smells.

 

[humulus]

Patience is definitely the key to a lot of homebrewing.
So long as you are sanitary, you're unlikely to have an infection. Just sit tight and let the gravity drop, it's no problem to leave the beer in fermenter for a couple of weeks.
Unless it tastes rancid, still fermenting beer is not much of a guide to end product until you get used to tastes/smells.

+1 for what Hsb said :icon_offtopic: sorry to be O.T. but im on the 2nd keg of you hsb recipe top drop HSB!!!

 

[hsb]

Glad to hear it mate :beer: and glad George Gale's Ales live on down here (since Fuller's pretty much killed them and sold the brewery for a poxy matchbox housing estate in the UK.)

Kudos for the recipe goes to Graham Wheeler!

Back on topic of airlocks and strange sights/smells. If I had only one bit of advice for any fledgling brewer, it would be patience. The pull to check on your precious every hour of every day is strong, resist it and let the yeast do their thing. Give it at least a week before troubling the hydrometer, you won't discover much before other than a beer on the way down to FG. And consider tossing the airlock/sediment catcher. I just use an upturned shot glass if I use a lid, you're just keeping out airborne nasties, or gladwrap means you can 'see' what's happening inside without having to take the lid off constantly and increase chances of infection.

Although there's nothing wrong with using an Airlock, fill it with boiled sanitised water and it won't matter in the least if some gets drawn in to the beer.

 

[bacardi]

Quick question about malt extracts.

How do you avoid it "glooping" up when it goes into the fermenter?

I've been experimenting with the Muntons' spray malts but hate the swilling and stabbing to break up the rocks of malt. I figure I must be doing something wrong and that there must be a better way.

Thanks.

 

[Fish13]

pre dissolve it before adding to ther brew/fermentor or get a mash paddle...