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hayden

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well i need some help with a font it's a T type font which supports glycol only it is used and the person who removed it from the bar cut the beer lines and glycol lines about 10-20 mm from the bottom of the font, just curious if i can dismantle the whole lot and run new lines through it or if its pretty much buggered.
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well i need some help with a font it's a T type font which supports glycol only it is used and the person who removed it from the bar cut the beer lines and glycol lines about 10-20 mm from the bottom of the font, just curious if i can dismantle the whole lot and run new lines through it or if its pretty much buggered.
WP_000128.jpg
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they can be serviced, but if you are lucky try find a barb that you can use to join lines to what you have left

10 - 20 mm might just be enough if you are lucky

this is not the best fix, as the barb changes the smooth flow in the line and might cause the beer to break up on its way through

otherwise, you will need to disasemble it and run new lines

by the looks of it, your taps have the snaplock adaptors attached to them
 
Yep you can pull it apart and run new lines. I had to do exactly the same thing with 2 triple tap fonts, it's a bit fiddly getting the lines in but with someone to help and a few hooks made from coat hanger wire it is ok. Oh and dont just rip the old lines out, its easiest to use them as a draw wire of sorts
 
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they have a threaded adaptor in the middle which connects to the tap to the font. ill look into getting a cost price for it to be serviced and new lines run was hoping i could do it myself.
 
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they have a threaded adaptor in the middle which connects to the tap to the font. ill look into getting a cost price for it to be serviced and new lines run was hoping i could do it myself.

so they are not snaplock, no big deal, takes you an extra 10 seconds if you want to take the tap off for cleaning
 
yeah its no biggy and in that case any one like to come over and help me re-line it? beer and food will be provided of course :)
 
Its really not hard just fiddly until you get the hang of it. Do the ends of the 'T' screw ot with an allen key?

Be careful pulling the line around corners, the inside of my fonts are quite sharp on the internal corners.

I'll see if I took any photos of the process

:beer:
 
i managed to get one end off (was glued there with silicon) and there was this great big brass plug that blocks off any kind of access dunno if i can remove it either.
 
That will make it more of a challenge. You can see in the pic the both the ends and top of my 'T' simply screwed out giving ok access

stripped.jpg
 
As said above mate it's not hard at all I,ve done a couple, just take your time and put it down and walk away sometimes. Do you want the flooded part to work ?
 
yeah mine certainly doesnt have that feature, ill have to go to work tomorrow but ill spent more time fiddling with it tomorrow, there no massive rush i still need to set up the bar first. and aquire the rest of the required kegging gear
 
i would love the flooded part to work, ice covered fonts are very pretty.
 
i managed to get one end off (was glued there with silicon) and there was this great big brass plug that blocks off any kind of access dunno if i can remove it either.

Get a piece of timber and give it a bang on that, you want the brass plug to fall out but it has an 0 ring on it which can make it difficult. There's a trick but you need a compressor, can you get access to one? Oh and be gentle of course don't bash it like a boilermaker would.
 
i would love the flooded part to work, ice covered fonts are very pretty.


OK it's a bit more work but not to bad, ice covered fonts are out of most of our reach, I just pump water from the chestie through mine and it sweats up nice.
 
yeah i remember it was very nice, i wont worry about the flooded part working to create ice straight away. just like to get the tap lines redone and can look at coming back to it
 
I already have a compressor


The large lines of course are the flooded bit, the brass plugs are holding in the coolant. Plug one line and pressurize the other to blow the plug out. Do this one at a time, so replace the cap on the opposite side.

WARNING
Don't put you hand over the end to catch the cap, have a cardboardard box with a towel or something lining it and blow it off in there. They can release with quite some force, many a fitter knows of bad accidents along these lines.
 
The large lines of course are the flooded bit, the brass plugs are holding in the coolant. Plug one line and pressurize the other to blow the plug out. Do this one at a time, so replace the cap on the opposite side.

WARNING
Don't put you hand over the end to catch the cap, have a cardboardard box with a towel or something lining it and blow it off in there. They can release with quite some force, many a fitter knows of bad accidents along these lines.
noted and i could imagine, and is it fine to leave the flooded ends out of there and put them back in later if needed.
 
noted and i could imagine, and is it fine to leave the flooded ends out of there and put them back in later if needed.


Why not fix it properly, we don't want a half-fix do we? :lol: Your going have to strip it and if you want it flooded do it now, I think you we need a couple bits of cooper brazed to the cut off bits you have.
 
thats true and putting the ends of the flooded just simply push them back in, and replace the metal pin thats slid in there which seems to hold it in place, the brasing is easy
 
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