Feshly milled vs store milled: Will I really notice the difference?

[MHB]

:icon_offtopic: On your 175mm rollers, did you need to have them knurled?

I am building a mill with 140mm rollers, and am thinking it may not be required. Also I don't have a knurling tool and if I can get away without having to buy one it would obviously be preferential...

Mine had spiral fluted rolls
Found some picks in a very old thread http://aussiehomebrewer.com/topic/37998-new-grain-mill/?p=533353

Hope that helps
Mark

 

[Matplat]

That is a serious mill!

I'm going to assemble it without knurling to see how it goes. Seems like it would produce a better crush if I can get away with it.

 

[Matplat]

got me concerned about power requirements though... My rollers are 150 long compared to your 195, but I probably only have 10% of the power in my motor. I do have a gear ratio of 9:1 though....

I guess I will need to build a throttle into my hopper then...

 

[MHB]

That mill pulled 8.5A of 145V but it was rated to 1100kg/hour so you should be able to get away with a lot less power, the important point being the roller speed, I think if you aimed at around 300-400 rpm by putting a small pulley on the gear motor and a big one on the mill you would get good results.
If at all possible both rollers should be driven, I hate to think how smeared the husks would get trying to have one roller drive another through the malt.
Mark

 

[Matplat]

Yeah driving both rollers isn't really an economical option, I was going on the theory that the phillmill crushes against a static plate whereas I have a movable plate, and I'm pretty sure the monstermill only has one driven roller.

Obviously driving both would be better, but I think the cost of the gears would make it nonviable...

I am aiming for 300rpm using a 370W motor, I have a 14" pulley on the roller and will have a 1.5" on the motor spinning at 2850rpm. If I get too much slip on the belt, I may have to go up a size on the motor roller to 2" or something...